NSF Wheel bolts keep loosening

Fisher

Active Member
The NSF Wheel bolts keep loosening. I tightened them back up tight (not with a torque wrench) 2 days ago.

They seem to have some loose again.

The car is fitted with Mk3 Ibiza Cupra Speedlines and the wheel bolts look to be standard Seat type.

The car has been fitted with a locking wheel nut on each wheel I could not say right now if it is a taper seat bolt...

Any ideas?

Are the Cupra Speedline bolts any longer that the standard steelie bolts to accommodate the thickness of the alloy?
 

abbotsmike

Active Member
Dec 17, 2011
418
1
Uxbridge
May be a silly question, but have you compared any of the NSF bolts with bolts from a different wheel that don't keep loosening?
 

Fisher

Active Member
No, I just went and rechecked them all round. I will look tonight...

Unfortunately my gf drives it to work and back and is refusing to have the AA out to check and is insisting on driving it with a loose wheel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The threads looked to be ok and the bolt felt ok as it tightened.

Does the mk3 Cupra have different wheel bolts to the Mk2 on steelies? Wondering if previous owner bothered to swap the bolts or just the wheels
 
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Jonny95 SXE

The Irish Contender
Nov 23, 2004
339
0
alloy wheel bolts would be longer then steelie bolts man, you should be aiming for about 10-15mm of thread into the hub
 

Brummy

Nazi Moderator-Bot
Mar 6, 2005
4,275
0
Moved to the DarkSide
definitely look at other bolts off other side etc, i had an issue witth my old mk2 which entailed loosing a wheel as i slowed from high speeds (private road scenario) and its not a nice thing ! turns out i actually needed longer bolts . fitted some and never had the issue again although it did completely put me off those particular alloys after i had always hankered after a set, and i sold them without ever really running them on the car again
 
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Fisher

Active Member
Yeah, I bought the car with them on so I have no knowledge of if the longer bolts were fitted..

Just spoke with Dave@ Sere Motors and the part number is the same for MK2 and MK3 steelies and alloy wheels. I will look to see if the threads are worn/seats are knackered..

1 x depth should be minimum thread engagement and 1.5 should be ideal...Thats what we do in Engineering anyway...

I have some new hubs, 280mm discs, callipers, ball joints and wheel bearings not quite ready to go on. :/
 
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jcs356

Cordy owner
Jul 12, 2004
1,161
0
Englandland
Could the thread be chewed up in the hub? Not sure how you'd check that, tho. Might be worth moving your plans forward to fit the new hubs and discs.

Could try putting some threadlock on them?

Only time I had a problem with a bolt it was just one, and it was on the rear. Thread had gone on the disc.
 
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CraigW

Craig.
Apr 12, 2007
4,607
1
Hawick, Scottish Borders, Scotland
Dave at Sere Motors answered what I was going to say.

When I was putting a set of Mk3 Cupra Oz's on my Mk2 and looked at the standard wheel bolts between mk2/mk3 and steel/alloy wheels and found that all the part numbers were the same.

I agree with what others have said, cross/damaged thread on the hub.
 

Fisher

Active Member
The mystery continues....

Took the bolts and and the thread form looks good. I gave the threads a clean out with a wire brush.

The correct Seat radius seat bolts have been used

The bolts fully engage in the hub without and sticking or tight threads.

The bolts seem to engage about 7 turns (M12 x 1.5) so I have 10.5mm thread engagement which is a little less than I like but as Seat had intended.

I refitted the wheel and torqued to 110Nm took for long test drive and checked torque of bolts upon my return..

They seem to be ok.

The car is due a massive birthday soon:

280mm discs, calipers, pads, wheel bearings, balljoints and tyres x 4.

Hopefully this may sort the issue as the bearings are a bit noisy at the mo!