Oh no, Please No

[LK16v]

Options if it's the:-

*Bottom end:- Crank regrind and some big end/little end shells

*Head:- Replacement head and at the same time fit new head gasket, cam belt, tensioners and water pump.

Or install a good know VR6, cheaper than the 20vt but more power than the 16v.

I've destroyed 3 engines so far, all in different cars (Fiat Coupe 20vt, Pug 205 GTi x 2) and it may seem it at the time, but there's always a solution. If you're with the AA then remember you have the option (usually) of a 72hr courtesy car, which I made use of 2 years ago to tow a car to a garage and also to pick up a replacement engine etc. Best of luck!

 

[Mckellar]

AA men dont really know what they are talking about..when my pedal box went he said it was my clutch.

Do some investigating, if all else fails - thats crying out for a 20VT engine swap.

 

[rich.h44]

Yeah go 4 a 20vt mate,just imagan that turbo throwing you bak in your seat!ill be doing it soon hopefully along with the mk3 front end!

 

[Grayboy]

Options if it's the:-
.

I've destroyed 3 engines so far, all in different cars (Fiat Coupe 20vt, Pug 205 GTi x 2)

How the hell did you blow up 2 pug lumps, an ex girlfriend drove around with virtually no oil in my old one (stupid mare didn't notive the big black puddle on her drive) for a weekend and it's still took another 30K of thrashing without missing a beat???

 

[crezz]

unfornuntly it is the crank...im gutted, dont know what to do? i would like a 20vt in there but thats more £££ and dont really know how the engine has already been drashed.

 

[AlpineWhite]

Well, you could rebuild your engine and put it back in. At least that way it's a known quantity. If you bought another ABF and bolted it in, it too could go bang.....

 

[fresh_creps]

feel for you mate,but think of it as a kinda positive,good chance to get the engine rebuilt "properly" now few new additions to a re-conned engine me thinks

 

[crezz]

im hoping that the crank might just need grinding and oversized shells fitted, can you drop it out without taking the engine out?

 

[rich.h44]

Thats not to bad!it could have been worse!build some thing biga and faster!think its an engin out job!

 

[LK16v]

How the hell did you blow up 2 pug lumps

First 205 GTi I had just turned 19, it was a 1.9 with a 1.6 box and high lift cams, ended up holding it on the limiter whilst beating a BMW 325i compact, but the limiter came a lot earlier than the BMW's and ended up blowing the bottom end, nice hole in the block too
Second one was an Mi16, which didn't suit my driving style by suffering severe oil surge on a very long left hander at high speed, seized the engine causing a nice engine fire up the underside of the car.

im hoping that the crank might just need grinding and oversized shells fitted, can you drop it out without taking the engine out?

Have you checked the oil pump? Last year a friends Audi A3 1.8T started sounding like it was knocking, but it was just the oil pump needing replacement at the 100k mile interval (known fault). Just seems a bit strange for the bottom end to go like that. Has it been thrashed from cold since day one? What's the engine mileage? How many track days has it done? Also, when was the last oil change, and when did you last check the oil?

The AA once told me an engine was dead, when in fact the dissy connector had just become disconnected...bit of a difference!

The bottom end can be accesses by removing the sump, but I'd advise you having the car fairly high above you, or use a pit to work from underneath because axle stands won't hold it high enough. Have you looked at a Haynes manual or similar to refer to regarding torque settings?

It's all well and good fixing the bottom end, but I'd be investigating the cause first of all. How do you know it's the crank if it hasn't even been removed to see if it's within tolerance, which requires specialist measuring equipment to determine if it needs a regrind.

For reference, a bottom end rebuild will cost cira. £800. Then whilst there the garage will no doubt advise on clutch replacement etc whilst the areas are easy to get to.

 

[m0rk]

take the engine out... it's so easy it's unreal.

I wouldn't bother rebuilding this one (yet)

pick up a spare ABF, no loom required. Change the cambelt & slap it in.

Then get your 'old' ABF rebuilt as time & money allow.

It took me less than 4hrs to get my old engine & gearbox out, engine bay washed, new engine in & bolted up (and coolant all connected).. And trust me, I'm no professional.

 

[crezz]

im not sure what to do. the car was previously owned by a disabled women, it has 68k on the clock. i very much doubt that she thrashed it, i know i didnt when it was cold but then i only occasionally give it some beans.

 

[LK16v]

im not sure what to do. the car was previously owned by a disabled women, it has 68k on the clock. i very much doubt that she thrashed it, i know i didnt when it was cold but then i only occasionally give it some beans.

68k miles and the bottom end is FUBAR!? That makes me even more dubious. Is there any possibility the car was registered in the disabled persons name and ragged by their son/daughter etc? Also, anything to support servicing and mileage? How long have you owned and driven the car(from what mileage)?
Since this has happened have you checked if any oil registers on the dip stick?

Best way to check if the bottom end is knackered is to drain out the old oil whilst looking for metal filings. Also the colour will signify whether it's fresh or old.

I've cracked a sump on an old car of mine getting airbourne into a field and the engine sounded like a tractor for a couple of seconds before shutting it off. If it is the oil pump then change it (by dropping the sump) and refill with fresh oil and filter. Before attempting to remove the sump, spray all the bolts with penetrating fluid (e.g. WD40) to loosen them up a little and prevent the bolts rounding. Then the next bit will be the sump gasket which will be pretty tight. Oh and it goes without saying, but drain the oil first

 

[crezz]

ive had it since october last year...had 63k on the clock....only changed the oil about 2k ago along with filter.... first thing i checked when i pulled in was oil level, it was half way on the measurement, then the aa guy came and checked it about 45mins after and it was on minimum, now there is no oil showing on the dip stick at all?

 

[m0rk]

is the car now on a slope?

 

[crezz]

nope

 

[LK16v]

That is perfectly feasible because the difference between min and max on the dip stick is 1 litre of oil. When oil is cold it under reads, hence why you should always check your running oil level after the car is warm and allow about 15mins to cool down to give an accurate reading. From what you've said, the car could do with a top up but it's not low enough to cause bottom end oil starvation.
Since your car is dead you've got nothing to lose from investigating the causes further. I'd be draining that oil, checking for any remains of shells, then sump off etc. What's the point in replacing the engine if the current one isn't as dead as you think.

 

[crezz]

yeah, im thinking restoring this engine, knowing my luck i would find a replacement abf lump and something else drastic happening...lol....i suppose i got to laugh. if not i will cry some more

 

[rich.h44]

It will be fine mate!hope you get it done soon!

 

[CraigW]

Just read this thread today mate and im gutted for you. I hope that it isnt too much of a fix and hope that you can get it going again because you car was looking mint!