Porsche brakes

edc

Blue Leather & Shiny Bits
Feb 8, 2002
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Front four pot calipers, front discs and two sets of used pads from a non M030 Porsche 968 Club Sport. These calipers are also standard fit to the front of basic 964 C2 / C4 models and 944 S2 / Turbo. They are axial mounting with 40mm/36mm piston sizes and used 298mm x 28mm discs.

Part nos: 951 351 421 03 & 951 351 422 03

Any ideas if these will fit an Ibiza/Golf? Sorry, no more info other than this at the mo. What sort of clearance issues might arise?
 

edc

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Feb 8, 2002
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What's the issue with the piston sizes?

I've seen this up for sale for less than 200 big ones so thought it might be another thing I could keep in my garage ...
 

F2 Stu

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Oct 4, 2001
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Bigger pistons increase the travel of the brake pedal as the master cylinder on an Ibiza wasnt desingd to take that amount of 'load'

Im about to fit Wilwod Superlite 4pot's (cue Wilwood bashing from the Badger) with 44mm pistons and there is a question mark weather the 22mm bore master cylinder will cope, but as I picked them up for a more than reasonable price I wnat be bother that much if they dont work right.
 

Fen

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Oct 21, 2002
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edc said:
Front four pot calipers, front discs and two sets of used pads from a non M030 Porsche 968 Club Sport. These calipers are also standard fit to the front of basic 964 C2 / C4 models and 944 S2 / Turbo. They are axial mounting with 40mm/36mm piston sizes and used 298mm x 28mm discs.

Part nos: 951 351 421 03 & 951 351 422 03

Any ideas if these will fit an Ibiza/Golf? Sorry, no more info other than this at the mo. What sort of clearance issues might arise?


I'm pretty sure people have fitted them to Golfs. You need to be aware that these calipers are one of the 944's weak points - they are made of aluminum and have steel plates fixed inside (with a socket head machine screw) for the ends of the pads to run against so they don't wear the alu away. Over time bimetallic corrosion makes the plates swell away from the caliper and bind up the pads inside. Caught early enough it's an easy fix (if you can get the screws out - needs heat usually) but if it's left long enough it can write the caliper off.

Stu's right about the master cylinder, but if you can fit the discs and calipers successfully then you can fit a suitable one of them as well. You could fit an adjustable bias valve or matching rear brakes from a Porker if the MC is too big.

I'm not a fan of Wilwood at all. Usually things are significantly cheaper than competitor products for a reason...
 
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edc

Blue Leather & Shiny Bits
Feb 8, 2002
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Fen, the advertiser says there is ‘plate lift’ on a couple of the pad plates , is this the corrosion you allude to?

Is there a fix for the metal corrosion ie if you used iron or some other metal wouldn't that corrode first? (I only got a C for A level chem)
 

Fen

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Oct 21, 2002
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edc said:
Fen, the advertiser says there is ‘plate lift’ on a couple of the pad plates , is this the corrosion you allude to?

Is there a fix for the metal corrosion ie if you used iron or some other metal wouldn't that corrode first? (I only got a C for A level chem)

Plate lift - that's it. You just replace the plates with original ones but put loads of copper grease behind them and you get 7-10 years out of them. Trouble is the oldest calipers have been around since 1986 and even the youngest ones are likely to be corroded (don't know when they stopped using them). I doubt the factory was much bothered about preventing the corrosion when they built them.

They can be fixed - the ones on my cab are fine. I have a bill for several hundred pounds for having the brakes on my Turbo (which has bigger calipers yet) refurbed though...
 

Fen

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Oct 21, 2002
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It's salt that kills them most of all. A lot of CS's were second cars from new and might not have been used in winter at all. Using the brakes hard doesn't worsen the corrosion, sitting around outside does though.
 
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