Seat reverse camer badge

[p11lkw]

a proper dummies guide. I'm sure you could manage it if you try. I will help you if you give it a try

 

[STU3Y]

What do the parts cost

 

[p11lkw]

I'd of thought £50 ish should about cover it for yours if you don't need a module for the HU

 

[STU3Y]

Sorry to be a pain but any chance you could give a specific parts list again (sizes, part numbers) and an idea where to purchase.

 

[STU3Y]

Ok so I am going to give this a go ive ordered the following

Cam
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=201066555991
Servo tester
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=281418520267
Servo
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=191221364017

Total so far £18.35

 

[Rob_Talisman]

think this is on my list too. how close to Grimsby are you P11lkw

 

[STU3Y]

Cheer man



Part list is the same. The only thing I added was a 5 pin relay to stop the boot opening when the badge was lift up.

The badge will need to be heavily modified to get the camera to fit. After I cut away large amounts of plastic to get the camera to fit, the badge doesn't close completely stays open about 2mm. So you may want to try and find a smaller camera if there is one.

The most expensive items were the interface aka "canbus thingymajic adapter", which you don't need and the badge, which you already have. Depending on the items that you have already got or could find/borrow. Like I already had a servo but had to spend £9 on 150 springs as I didn't know what size I needed and that was the only quantity they came in. I would think £50 would get you going.

Can I ask you how you get power to your current camera? Mine flickers a bit and I think it's the way I power the camera.

I don't know anything about electrics but will be hoping to get a mate help me when I get all my parts. Can you tell me where you installed the relay to stop the boot opening and possibly include a link to one

 

[STU3Y]

With regards to this image I am assuming if you have a cable with a nipple on you could just drill a tiny hole and slot the cable through rather than needed a rod connector or would it move to much when the badge closes?

Or could you do the same thing by feeding the cable through the spring a couple of times so the end is held?

 

[STU3Y]

Another question. Do I need an interface as mentioned above? What purpose does it serve?

 

[STU3Y]

How are these ones working. They don't appear to have servo tester or a spring but seem fine

www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ3ESP8tpg0

www.youtube.com/watch?v=trkq9K9MAZE

 

[STU3Y]

Started my install today, unfortunately through stupid mistakes I messed a lot of it up so nowhere near finished. The first problem was the camera stand; it was not in the correct position and I couldn't get it apart to turn it round which led to it snapping whilst shaping it. Then to top it all off, whist trying to figure out how to mount it with a broken stand the cables broke so looks like I'll be buying a new one. (Annoying delays)

2nd problem is my badge sits too close to the boot lid frame to be able to mount the servo on the side like others so had to have it on top. This took some figuring out as didn't really know how to mount a spring to return the servo to stating position. Spent hours trying to tweak the internal spring and eventually managed to get it to shut itself without an additional one.

So far only drilled and fitted the servo, voltage reducer and servo driver. Due to the fact I broke the camera I have only cut the slot for the cable in the middle of the handle but not drilled through the casings yet.

Whilst trying to figure out how others connected their looms as no one has included specifics or photos yet, I discovered that the reversing light plug unclips at the back edge so the wires can just be tucked inside for the positive and negative.

Will try and upload a few photos of progress when I get a chance.

I have a couple of questions?

1. Is the dial on the tester for adjusting the servo arm angle or speed of the turn?
2. When in reverse the servo is buzzing as if its straining slightly, is this right? I assume it has to continue to fight against the spring otherwise it will return to position.
3. Can anyone upload pics of their earth points and where they connected positive wires for the regulator and servo tester.
4. Did people use the same pos and neg points for the camera as they did regulator. Pics please?

 

[STU3Y]

I have finally finished. Here are a few pictures. Basically I followed the guide but made some changes at the facelift cars are a bit different.

I had to fit the camera further back due to the small badge size.

The servo had to be mounted to the boot due to lack of space around the metal housing of the badge.
I also added a 5 pin relay that cuts power to the boot motor when the car is in reverse allowing the badge to open up more.

Just like to say thanks again for the great guide

How and where did you fit relay. Can you provide a link to which one as I am doing this. My mate fitted relay so cuts power to boot switch and allows badge to open fully, however as soon as I disengage reverse the boot switch powers up again and the boot opens as the badge pulls shut. Any help would be appreciated

 

[STU3Y]

Right I need some help. I have installed the camera however there are lines running down the screen constantly (kind of like when you video a computer screen). Also when the engine is running the camera image no longer displays on the screen.

At the moment, both live and earth are off the reversing light as others seem to have done. If I just use a 9v batt the picture quality massively improves. From research it seems to me that this may be caused by the canbus system.

Can anyone suggest where else I could run the loom from, so it is only on when in reverse.

 

[Dan_FR_21]

Right I need some help. I have installed the camera however there are lines running down the screen constantly (kind of like when you video a computer screen). Also when the engine is running the camera image no longer displays on the screen.

At the moment, both live and earth are off the reversing light as others seem to have done. If I just use a 9v batt the picture quality massively improves. From research it seems to me that this may be caused by the canbus system.

Can anyone suggest where else I could run the loom from, so it is only on when in reverse.

Sorry I haven't replied sooner. Current mine is not working as I was trying to make some improvements, the cable came loose from the back of the camera. I ordered another camera and snapped the mounting plate. So it's been disabled until I get some motivation to fix it.

The relay to cut the power to the boot switch wasn't 100% effect as you know but I did find it allowed it to open a few more millimetre.

For the power feed I had the same problem using the power from the reverse light (a few pages back). The way I fix it was using a relay and the reverse light as a trigger. Getting the main feed from a more stable source.
It would ideally be from the fuse box with a inline fuse. But the effort getting the video cable from the boot to the head unit, I couldn't be doing it again. So I got a volt metre and tested every wire in the boot for a constant stable voltage and found one going into the rear window wiper motor. So I taped into that for my main live feed. Probably not the best solution but it worked for me.

 

[STU3Y]

Thanks for the response what colour was the wire to the wiper ?

My friend has added as few capacitors to delay the relay allowing the badge to return before the boot switch activates. So far it's been ok but not actually finished the install yet due to the issues we are discussing now.

 

[STU3Y]

Finished wiring my cam and it's worse than before. I have a single solid white line running up the screen about an inch thick and the whole screen flashes every couple of seconds. I'm not sure if somethings faulty or if I've wired something wrong.

https://vimeo.com/109161591

I have tried to do a diagram but I know nothing bout electrics so please excuse the quality. Hopefully it will be clear enough.

For info this is for the motorised badge with camera underneath so I have a servo tester powering a servo to open the badge. This all happens when reverse is selected and everything including the camera powers up. I have a relay and capacitors fitted to stop the boot switch activating when the badge handle opens/returns from fully open.

 

[STU3Y]

Update...

I have tried looking back through wiring for anything obvious but no luck. I have therefore removed the harness for the servo and tester and plugged just the camera in via the fuse box and relay with reverse as a trigger. Obviously i had to open the boot badge manually but without the servo etc the image is fine. Any one got any ideas of where to start

 

[p11lkw]

Well I originally had a bit of interference probably due to the can-bus system. My reverse power feed now runs through a towing electrics can-bus relay which has made a difference to the picture quality.
As for the picture disappearing when engine is running does the reverse light still work or bulb failure light come on ?

 

[STU3Y]

Lights all still work. Cam now works when engine running as I've wired through relay. Problem is with white lines shown in video above. Must be something to do with the servo etc

 

[STU3Y]

I'm stuck as to what to do next?