Second hand turbo for my asv tdi

[Yorkshireboxer]

Buying a second hand turbo at the weekend, removing it my self from the doner car in a deal with the breaker to get it what I think is a more than reasonable price, the fuel pump failed he got it at scrap so is breaking, therefore no way to see/hear the engine/turbo working is there any way to check visually or otherwise with out the engine running that I can do before purchasing?

I have heard depressing the actuator to make sure it moves with out sticking, not sure as to the range of movement as its my first vag tdi and mine only moves a few mm when depressed, this lead me to think this is the cause of my over boost fault that keeps giving me the dreaded lhm, which with a quick off/on with the ignition is solved until the next spike

Vac lines are all replaced with silicone I. good condition with solid connections. The n75 swapped with new genuine one still same issue.

Any help/advice would be much appreciated

-Rob


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[verbal_kint]

The actuator could just be a gunked up one that a working with oven cleaner will fix.
Oil seepage signs or a twisted/damaged oil supply pipe (as they are notorious for doing in removing and an uncaring person refitting) could mean the turbo has suffered oil starvation and almost certainly damage.

Other than that the only way I can think would be to dismantle the unit and check the vane measurement and bearing operation.

Breakers are also covered by the Sale of Goods Act so the part still needs to be of satisfactory quality, selling it for a reasonable price does not make any difference. Only if your receipt states "This is not a working item and only fit to turn into an ashtray" or similar will the SoGA not work.

 

[Yorkshireboxer]

I did the Mr muscle clean on mine few days ago filled it from the cast iron side by removing my egr blank plate but the actuator only moves very slightly, even when I did that trying to repeat the process every 10-15 mins but no more movement was achieved put it back together after a few hours and took car for a run to chuck it out performance improvement was noticeable but but still put me in lhm under load around 60-70mph I'm almost certain the actuator should move a lot more movement than it does on mine which is making think to go buy a turbo as I'm not that confident stripping a turbo and rebuilding it is a recondition hard? I would happily rebuild it if it's something I can do as I will buy the turbo and rebuild it then fit it to my car and deal with my dodgy turbo once the rebuilt one is fitted is this a good idea ? My turbo has done 164,000 along with the block the one I am buying has come off a car with 30k miles less than mine also it's from an alh engine but I'm under the impression it's just the oil cooled Pistons that is the difference between the two? And the turbo is the same ? Correct me if I'm wrong lol

Thank you for the advice on soga will look into that an make sure he provides me with a appropriate receipt

-Rob


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[verbal_kint]

This video is on my favourite list for when I need to do it. Learnt quite a bit from that guy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CVIrfK2Z7I&list=PLGKyfk_nF4JRFlsUDYNfQ2TFdi9ZIxr9W&index=6

Darkside can supply new actuators http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/actuators-oil-lines-and-parts/.

 

[Yorkshireboxer]

Which video mate ? I'm new here not sure how to view it

Already looked on the dark side site for turbo rebuild kits etc link is much appreciated
Thanks

-Rob


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[verbal_kint]

Sorry, my fault. Added it to the post now.

 

[Yorkshireboxer]

Great video that think I'm going to strip and recon the one I'm buying Saturday aslong as there isn't much play in it and the actuator moves free enough then swap them and recon the one in my engine as a spare thanks for your help I'm a lot more confident in rebuilding the turbo now

-Rob


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[verbal_kint]

Get yourself a spare oil supply pipe in, just in case.

 

[Yorkshireboxer]

Surely the one on my old turbo and the one on the second hand turbo should be ok?

I'm not sure would rather ask do you know how much they cost?

And also if you know the gt17...... Code for the turbo in the asv/alh model would be much appreciated

Thanks

-Rob


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[Yorkshireboxer]

Sorry seen oil line on the link you sent me haha do you know the part number for the turbo on the alh/asv engine?

Thank.

-Rob


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[verbal_kint]

this is from the site on that video : http://www.aceturbo.co.uk/index.php?p=product_detail&pro_id=9326

As far as the oil supply line is concerned it may be a pig to get off, the oil filter side is easy the one on the Turbo can very easily twist, mine did and I tried so hard to be careful and let it soak in plusgas overnight before gettingthe spanners on it. If it twists it is knackered and a weak point is created, that goes and the turbo gets starved and you're looking at another few hundred spent.

That is why many recommend switching to a SS braided flexible line with banjo unions at both ends, no worries should you ever need to take it off again.

Also do remember to fill the turbo with oil before connecting the supply hose and turning it all on, again you don't want to risk it spinning up dry.

 

[Yorkshireboxer]

Replace with a braided stainless steel flexi line? what's a banjo Union? And I was going to ask about priming the turbo new ?used oil?

Sorry to be a pain just don't want to mess it up

-Rob


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[verbal_kint]

Just been reading this, very relevant to the job you're doing:

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=375433&highlight=oil+supply+line

 

[Yorkshireboxer]

Awesome thank you was trying to search through older threads for something similar

-Rob


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