Haze

Active Member
Oct 21, 2014
340
2
Took my car for MOT yesterday, failed on brakes. The nearside hand brake cable is having no effect (the other side works fine ) telling me the rear caliper is seized. The guy showed me the handbrake cable freely moving at the back of the caliper. Does this sound right? A whole new caliper?
 
Think you can change the piston mate not really sure but this happened to me lucky my mate done my mot so passed me and I just went to the scrapies and got another caliper, u will be eating brake pads mate, I had none on one side and full on the other, get it fixed ASAP mate or ur discs will get scored and ur pads will melt away lol
 
Alright mate, new discs and pads going anyway for the same labour
 
The rear caliper contains the handbrake mechanism as well as the ordinary hydraulic brake piston. The handbrake is mechanically linked to the piston by the lever on the outside which acts through a crank to move a threaded rod that the hydraulic piston is screwed down onto. The threaded connection is a means to achieve automatic adjustment of the handbrake travel, and is the reason you can't just push the pistons back in.

There are some guides around to show how to rebuild one of these calipers. Here is one from an Audi forum. Usually the seal for the mechanical rod going into the hydraulic system perishes or gets damaged allowing dirt and water to get in and seize the adjustment mechanism. As the pad continues to wear down you end up with a long brake pedal and no handbrake on one side.
 
Thank you, exactly the information I was after. Wasn't sure if they were trying to swizz me. Had the car up today checking out the cables, cables are fine but won't tighten due to one being seized in the caliper. The wheel with the seized caliper turns with little effort with handbrake up whereas the other is solid. I've got a new caliper going on tomorrow for mot, they didn't give me the option for rebuild. Seems like a shame to have a whole new caliper just because the handbrake mechanism has seized. Is there anything I should look out for when I go tomorrow in terms of the new caliper.
 
The calipers are handed, so I hope they've ordered the right one (or the left one... if you see what I mean). I expect it would cost more to have them rebuild it, and take longer, it's a few hours at least.

They will have to undo the hydraulic line to the caliper and let air into the system - but they should clamp the flexible hose next to the caliper to minimise fluid loss, fill the new caliper before fitting it and bleed it well when they have finished. I would still check that the pedal feel hasn't gone soft and complain if it has.

This is one of those areas that should really be part of the checks carried out at service intervals, but it isn't. Same as the bonnet lock - give that a good squirt of teflon oil or even motorcycle lube every six months or so to prevent it seizing.

The complicated dual-action caliper is a common way to fill the Construction and Use regulation for a completely separate handbrake system. Some cars have a separate mechanical caliper with its own pads, and others a drum brake setup inside a large-diameter hub. They are all to some degree prone to seizing from the action of water/road dirt.
 
I just refitted two calipers I bought for £20! The kits cost about £35 for both sides including pistons! I had to take the part that screws on to the adjuster out of the old pistons and put them into the new pistons which was probably the hardest part, but still handy enough! But to be honest, only I had the calipers lying about i prob would have just bought a new one!lol but if you have the time and a little knowledge, its a cheap fix! Dont suppose anyone knows the exact size for the copper banjo washers for the brake line? I think they are M12 but not sure of the other dimensions!
 
The calipers are handed, so I hope they've ordered the right one (or the left one... if you see what I mean). I expect it would cost more to have them rebuild it, and take longer, it's a few hours at least.

They will have to undo the hydraulic line to the caliper and let air into the system - but they should clamp the flexible hose next to the caliper to minimise fluid loss, fill the new caliper before fitting it and bleed it well when they have finished. I would still check that the pedal feel hasn't gone soft and complain if it has.

This is one of those areas that should really be part of the checks carried out at service intervals, but it isn't. Same as the bonnet lock - give that a good squirt of teflon oil or even motorcycle lube every six months or so to prevent it seizing.

The complicated dual-action caliper is a common way to fill the Construction and Use regulation for a completely separate handbrake system. Some cars have a separate mechanical caliper with its own pads, and others a drum brake setup inside a large-diameter hub. They are all to some degree prone to seizing from the action of water/road dirt.

Yeah i get ya hahaThanks buddy , when I asked them whether they definatly got the right one they said it was red so I asked to see it and I believe it is the correct one. I'll make sure that I test the brakes before ubleave. I'll be really disappointed though if they don't bleed them after obviously disconnecting the pipes.
 
Yeah i get ya hahaThanks buddy , when I asked them whether they definatly got the right one they said it was red so I asked to see it and I believe it is the correct one. I'll make sure that I test the brakes before ubleave. I'll be really disappointed though if they don't bleed them after obviously disconnecting the pipes.



I wouldn't worry too much about being disappointed if they don't bleed them, cuz you will probably be dead 10mins later! Make sure they bleed the system properly mate!
 
My concern about air in the system is that, if the garage is totally cack-handed and doesn't clamp the pipe then it is just possible (but very unlikely) that air could get back to the ABS pumps, at which point you have a much bigger task to clear it out. Plain bleeding doesn't always work, and you may need VCDS or a dealers diagnostic computer to exercise the ABS pumps as well.
 
When I changed my caliper I never clamped and hoses I just swapped them over, was getting a clunk when pulling up my hand break but that's all gone now, think it's just luck
 
Every time I pulled up the handbrake it would make a clunk on the pull up, bet now it's perfect brakes could stop a train lol
 
All done now, with a slight unexpected dent to the wallet, what a difference the handbrake it made. It had always been the same since I bought it, just thought it needed adjusting, clearly not!