Speaker wiring question

[WozzaB]

Hi guys,

I've got a small issue you can hopefully help with.

I've fitted a small 4 channel Pioneer amp using an ISO T harness, so all the wiring is factory still, I've also fitted an active sub in the boot.

Initially I had no output from the sub, I tapped into the front left and right speakers on the connector block, then discovered the CD unit has 6 channels and not just 4, so the front door woofers are on separate pins.

I'm going to swap the front door speakers and tweeters, they have their own crossovers, so my question is, if tapped into the pins in red in the picture below and added it to the front left and front right input connections on the amp, it would be getting full range to the front channel, then on the amp output tap into the front and left and go back to the door woofer wires.
So everything gets full range and their crossovers do the rest, does this sound correct?

 

[Cainy1989]

Pretty certain if I remember right the pins you have highlighted aren't enabled by default you have to enable them via VCDS something to do with either Beats or Seat Sound whatever they wanted to call it based on model year, That could all vary based on model and year though, mine was a 2016 FR, when I did the speakers and sub in 2020 on mine I had no output on those pins and had to wire it in the way you have it now but I tapped into the rear speakers instead.

 

[WozzaB]

Pretty certain if I remember right the pins you have highlighted aren't enabled by default you have to enable them via VCDS something to do with either Beats or Seat Sound whatever they wanted to call it based on model year, That could all vary based on model and year though, mine was a 2016 FR, when I did the speakers and sub in 2020 on mine I had no output on those pins and had to wire it in the way you have it now but I tapped into the rear speakers instead.

Thanks for the reply.
It's a 2017 FR, I'm pretty sure those pins I've marked in red are active, if I disconnect the pioneer amp, the rears and front tweeters are off, but the front door speakers still work, so they are being fed directly from the back of the CD unit it seems.

I'll get everything together to fit the new speakers and splice in and then have another look, I want to try and get it done in one go as getting the iso harness in and out is a pain as there isn't much room for it behind the CD unit, you have to try and push as much as you can up and out the way, it took a few goes last time.

 

[Craig.]

if tapped into the pins in red in the picture below

Then nothing will happen as those pins are only use when the car has Seat Sound. the 4 front speakers run of the 2 front channels, 2 rear speakers from the 2 rear channels

 

[WozzaB]

Then nothing will happen as those pins are only use when the car has Seat Sound. the 4 front speakers run of the 2 front channels, 2 rear speakers from the 2 rear channels

I'm a bit confused now then, when I tapped into the front left and right pins, the sub powered up but I got no output from the sub, so those pins are only supplying the tweeters are far as I can see.
The sub is currently getting it's high level input from the pins in red, so maybe the previous owner did something with the coding?

The high level input to the amp that has pins 1-8 going to it via, the iso T harness, if I take the connector out of the amp all the speakers stop apart from the front doors, so that's why I assumed they must me getting a signal from the pins in red.

I'm going to double check everything just in case I'm getting the pins mixed up

 

[WozzaB]

I just took a pic of the pins/wires that I think power the door speakers, looks like yellow/black, grey/blue, blue/red and white/can't see the stripe.
That's the wires the sub is getting it's high level input from, they definitely seem to be powering the front door speakers, I just double checked again by disconnecting the Pioneer amp and the front left and right door speakers are still playing

 

[Craig.]

My bad, was looking at a different diagram

Just a quick grab so the wire colours may be a little off but shows the front speakers are wired separately on a 6 speaker system

 

[WozzaB]

No worries, good to know I'm not losing the plot!
So with that in mind, would my original idea work?
Cutting wires 9/13 and 10/14 and joining them with the equivalent side front tweeter wires 2/6 and 3/5, so the amp gets full range to the front channel, then the front output from the amp would go to the tweeters as normal via the loom and also the front doors after I've run it back from the amp to the wires for the that run to the front doors.

The crossovers for the new door speakers and tweeters would then sort the full signal their getting

 

[Chariot]

No worries, good to know I'm not losing the plot!
So with that in mind, would my original idea work?
Cutting wires 9/13 and 10/14 and joining them with the equivalent side front tweeter wires 2/6 and 3/5, so the amp gets full range to the front channel, then the front output from the amp would go to the tweeters as normal via the loom and also the front doors after I've run it back from the amp to the wires for the that run to the front doors.

The crossovers for the new door speakers and tweeters would then sort the full signal their getting

@WozzaB
how did you get on?

 

[WozzaB]

@WozzaB
how did you get on?

I haven't done anymore to it unfortunately, but the sub is in and pounding more than I was expecting for the relatively small enclosure.

I'll probably let a local car audio place sort the doors speakers, tweeters and amp, my health is up and down unfortunately so I'll probably never get around to it myself.

 

[Chariot]

I haven't done anymore to it unfortunately, but the sub is in and pounding more than I was expecting for the relatively small enclosure.

I'll probably let a local car audio place sort the doors speakers, tweeters and amp, my health is up and down unfortunately so I'll probably never get around to it myself.

ah sorry to hear mate (about the health). But yes, I hear that a sub does wonders!

 

[WozzaB]

ah sorry to hear mate (about the health). But yes, I hear that a sub does wonders!

Thanks

The sub has made a huge difference, I was looking at the underseat and spare wheel type subs to keep the boot space, but I was just worried it would too much of a compromise, so I ended up going with an Audison 10" active sub.

It's still pretty compact, but puts out a lot more bass than I expected!
Still loads of boot space and quick release connectors if you need to take it out.

 

[Chariot]

Thanks

The sub has made a huge difference, I was looking at the underseat and spare wheel type subs to keep the boot space, but I was just worried it would too much of a compromise, so I ended up going with an Audison 10" active sub.

It's still pretty compact, but puts out a lot more bass than I expected!
Still loads of boot space and quick release connectors if you need to take it out.

Sub looks amazing and very understated. love it. (what is the model?)
So, what signal are you feeding it?

 

[WozzaB]

Sub looks amazing and very understated. love it. (what is the model?)
So, what signal are you feeding it?

It's this Audison sub, it's getting its input from the front door speakers pins on the back of the CD unit in the glove box, it took a bit of sorting as I initially tapped into the pins for front L/R, but it turned out that they only power the front tweeters

I've had some serious subs in my old cars, 2 12's in one and 2 15's in another and an 18" in a huge box crammed in the boot of my old E30 BMW!

This Audison was a pleasant surprise, ok it's not going to do what a 12" in a good box can do, but it puts out more bass than it has any right to in that little shallow box!

 

[Chariot]

It's this Audison sub, it's getting its input from the front door speakers pins on the back of the CD unit in the glove box, it took a bit of sorting as I initially tapped into the pins for front L/R, but it turned out that they only power the front tweeters

Ah yes, so you probably initially took the feeds from the brown block and then moved to the the 4 pins right next to it.

Did you make a Y-splitter loom or did you buy it online?

 

[WozzaB]

Ah yes, so you probably initially took the feeds from the brown block and then moved to the the 4 pins right next to it.

Did you make a Y-splitter loom or did you buy it online?

Yep the pins next to the brown block, I bought an ISO T harness as I have a small amp as well, but I got it before I realised that the from doors are on different pins, so some rewiring to do again, but I might just get a local car audio shop to sort it.