Stage 2+ performance upgrade guide: Mk2 Cupra R

[Legojon]

Just to add to the completeness of this. I wouldn't class these so much as upgrades as "things you can spend money on".

Battery box:

You don't realise you need this till you have it. The MK2s are designed to remove excess water off the bonnet by dripping it onto the negative terminal of the battery. Luckily, they put a piece of cloth between the water and the terminal. After a decade, this is really unpleasant. So for only 30 of your pounds, you can order these part numbers: 3C0915335, 3C0915336A, 3C0915443A. And will transform this:

Into this:

Mould sheet:

Under every bonnet lurks a most likely mouldy sheet of sound proofing. As water leaks through the scuttle, this gets wet, mouldy and sags down onto your engine bay cover. Choices are, remove it completely, but then that water is going into your engine bay:

Or seal the scuttle following the guide here:
https://forums.seatcupra.net/index....ttle-panel-mk2-leon-new-style-backing.396567/

Porsche caps:

Not that there's any really benefit... but if you too want to own two pieces of a Porsche this is your chance. The coolant cap is a direct fit. I believe the oil cap will fit with or without the filler neck (but I've kept the neck so can't confirm the former). Note that the oil cap doesn't sit straight. Which is fine. There is a guide out there to take it apart and put it back together straight. But sounds a lot of work to me.

Dip stick:

The most expensive dipstick you'll ever own. The good news is, the dipstick seals (little rubber bits) tend to break up and can be a cause of many head scratching issues. So just replacing the dipstick if it's a decade old is a good call. This one apart from looking awesome (even if I say so myself) has the bonus of an indented section for reading the oil level. This stops you scraping oil off the tube on the way up then trying to figure out where your actual oil level is. Also makes it much easier to read:

Engine cover:

If you have an intake and you want an engine cover, you have two choices. You can try and cut down your old engine cover which some have found some success with. Or you can buy a new or used TTS cover (and have more fun painting it yourself). Note that if you buy the TTS cover (which I don't have) you'll need to buy the longer fitting bolts as well.

 

[Legojon]

So... a couple more maintenance items to add. So I'm just reaching 50k miles now. Lifetime is 100k right? Well, I thought it'd be a good time to check some of the things the service schedule doesn't include.

Injectors:

Mine weren't too bad, but can cause loads of issues if they fail. For circa £300 you can have em ripped out, tested and replaced. Waste of money if they are fine right? Well, yes / no. When they are replaced (I believe) new injector seals should be fitted, but also the filter baskets have a habit of melting in your hand, not in your mouth. So it's good to get those renewed as well:

Oil pick up pipe:

As we know, oil is the lifeblood of engines and starving it of oil for even a few seconds can be fatal. Essential to this is the oil pickup pipe. This has a little mesh filter on it and as the name suggests, it picks things up out of the sump. Trouble is, after many years and many miles, it's prone to pickup all kinds of rubbish. Clogging can reduce it's efficiency. Changing it is fairly straightforward, but does involve removing the oil sump (so time it when your next oil change is due) and will look something like this:

Finally, the jury is still out on the...

Timing chain:

Again, if this slips, stretches or breaks, pain is ahead. Apparently in VCDs you can check the "stretch" which I'd have to check but may be blocks 208 / 209?!? But basically the closer to 0, the better. Mine is currently sitting at -3,-3. If I was paying attention, Seat recommend changing the chain / tensioner at -5, I was advised to wait till -7. But apparently "I'll know" which I assume to mean the engine will become really rattly / noisy. Whether I change this as a precaution, I'm not yet sure...

 

[Russc]

Brilliant write up, thanks. Looking at sorting my Mk2 cupra for a track toy and this has answers to lots of the questions I had

 

[Legojon]

Brilliant write up, thanks. Looking at sorting my Mk2 cupra for a track toy and this has answers to lots of the questions I had

Cheers. If there's any other questions, I'm sure me or someone else on here should be able to answer them for you.

 

[Csaba Sarkadi]

Inspired by Jimbobcook's detailed review of his Cupra R, I've decided to do a review of my own. However, as he's already covered the factory car in depth, I wanted to try and review the additional modifications I've made over the last two years. Hopefully it might save someone some money or help make a decision. It's pretty raw at the moment, but if admins are happy with it to stay, I'll be refining and adding pictures. I've split it across a couple of posts to allow me space for additions and pictures. And I've split it into performance mods and handling mods.

Please note that any specs, claims, measurements are all my own opinion and may or may not be related to actual science. If I've got any parts anyone wants to ask questions about or any questions about what I have included, please feel free to ask and I'll do my best to answer.

Performance:

Stage 1:

Likely the first upgrade most will go for. A Cupra / R will easily make 300ish bhp from just a software update alone. What’s not to like? The Cupra is pretty fast to begin with and this just makes it so much better. You’ll get used to it after a while, but you’ll definitely miss it when it’s not there. First time I had a flat battery and lost the settings, I found myself leaning forward into the acceleration wondering where the kick had gone.

Most likely everyone will be wondering which map to go for. I went for Revo which is a pretty safe map compared to most. But then, I’ve spent all my savings on this engine and I need it to last.

Stage 2:

I’ve read much advice about skipping Stage 2 and going straight to 2+. Having done it, I 100% agree with it. The only good point is that Revo charge you a £50 software update fee. Ok, you’ll need an intake and downpipe as well making it slightly less value for money. My butt liked to think for the £100s I spent that it was worth it. The exhaust noise was slightly more pleasing (downpipe), but performance wise it actually felt maybe slightly more pull but slightly slower off the line. And at high revs felt completely flat.

Stage 2+:

Which brings me on to Stage 2+. This requires at least a HPFP. For those that don’t know, Stage 2+ is a way of linking your injectors directly to your fuel gauge. This is evident as whenever I floor it, I can watch the fuel gauge go down another notch. But, it also links the accelerator pedal to your face muscles. Evident by the smile on my face every time I plant my foot. It just pulls and pulls in every gear up to the red line. Previously 1st and 2nd had been fun. But this now adds 3rd gear to the line-up. It also makes you lazy because you can now overtake easily in 6th rather than having to change down.

As much as I love the power and torque, there are 2 downsides. 1:- My fuel economy was never great. I can now easily knock another 6-7mpg off when on boost. 2:- I can now break traction in 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. So it actually makes the car more difficult to get off the line fast as more skill is involved.

Which brings me to upgrades:

Intake:

Likely the first bolt on upgrade will be an intake. I went for Revo because it seems to get the best reviews. I’ve never really felt the intake itself makes any difference directly to the performance or feel of the car. But it’s a necessary upgrade for Stage 2 onwards. Most intakes will be very marmite. You’ll either love the sound or hate it. Personally I love it, you get a whoosh on boost that’s audible from your glove box as well as outside the car that shouts “look, I’m fast”. But also, on quick shifts the guy your overtaking gets to hear the “randy owl noise”. This technically may be the quick dump of air through the dv, but again, you either love it or hate it. And I LOVE IT!!

Exhaust:

To go Stage 2 onwards, you’ll need at least a downpipe (turbo back). To pass an MOT, you’ll need this downpipe to have a cat (usually a 200 cell performance cat). From what I’ve read, a decent cat back adds 5-10bhp on as well. So a full exhaust system may be the best option. I went Milltek purely because the previous owner had kindly fitted the catback. Again, it’s a necessary upgrade for power, but definitely pleasing in making the throttle sound more throaty. And as my mom would say “I know when your in the street, I can feel the house shake”. I went resonated because I wanted to avoid motorway drone. But I’ve not heard non-resonated. So you take your chance and I’d listen first. Also, it’s shiny. And I like shiny.

Intercooler:

Do I need an intercooler? No, of course not, cause you’ve already spent a fortune and this is a good way of saving another £500+. I convinced myself of this for several months before getting the Dynodaze WellyCooler. This is one of my fav upgrades. I recall tfsi groups threads “is it me or is my car slow this summer?”. I couldn’t reply as It’d just be mean saying “Nope, I’m running great”. I’ve found with the WellyCooler that the hotter the weather, the more efficiently it does its job. I measured it on a 30 degree day, and as soon as I floored it at lights, my IAC dropped to 32 degrees! It also looks pretty awesome IMHO.

To answer some concerns I had: Yes you can keep your aircon. And yes, the aircon still works as well with the intercooler in front. I’ve come to think of it as this. You may make whatever bhp, but every run, every degree of outside temperature is taking that bhp away from you. A decent intercooler not only keeps your turbo happy, it keeps that smile on your face.

HPFP:

If your going 2+, you’ll need a HPFP. I went LOBA because 1:- I wanted a sealed unit and 2:- my original HPFP would be 7 years old with ok only 40k miles on it. But I wanted to go for the best solution possible. The LOBA claims to be able to supply 50% more fuel and I concur. The Stage 2 had been quite flat in places. I assume because the fuelling had literally just maxed out. But with the 2+ and the HPFP, if you’ve fuel in the tank, it’ll throw it in. The unit itself seems really well made.

Intake Bolt:

Technically not a performance mod, but related to one. How many times have I opened the engine bay to find the bolt and washer holding the intake have vibrated free!? Hmm, about 3-4 times. I have a selection of metal washers, rubber washers and 2 bolts somewhere loose in there. First thing I'd do after getting it fitted, put a load of threadlock on it!

Hello,my prev owner used the car with 340 HP and 520NM with stock IC. Its normal,right? Like if u are not pushing the car always in the hot summer,u are alright?!