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nap69

Active Member
Apr 20, 2009
13
6
Hey all i have a Leon FR 184 Cuna and i am chasing oil use of 1L in 1300 miles,among other things i am about to replace the pcv valve and need to take a couple of injectors out,can anyone confirm that the torque for the replacement injector clamp bolt is 8nm plus 270 deg?........8 nm doesnt seem like a lot!
TIA............
 
I ran your text through Copilot, out of interest, and it says you are correct. I find Ai responses pretty good for quick confirmations.

Short answer:
Yes — 8 Nm + 270° is the correct official torque for EA288 injector clamp bolts, including your Leon FR 184 (CUNA). It is surprisingly low, but it is exactly what VW specifies for the stretch‑type M6 clamp bolt.

EA288 Injector Clamp Bolt Torque (CUNA / 184PS) Injector clamp bolt — 8 Nm + 270°
This applies to all EA288 engines (1.6 & 2.0 TDI), including CUNA.High‑pressure line union nut — 28 Nm The bolt is a TTY (torque‑to‑yield) stretch bolt, which is why the initial torque is tiny — the clamping force comes from the 270° angle, not the 8 Nm.

Why 8 Nm Feels Wrong (But Isn’t)

The bolt is M6, very small, and designed to stretch.VW uses this spec across all EA288 engines. Multiple independent sources confirm 8 Nm + 270°. Failures happen not because the spec is wrong, but because: The bolt was reused (never reuse TTY bolts). Threads in the head were already weakened. Excessive exhaust back‑pressure (>8 mbar) caused injector lift.

Practical Tips Before You Torque

Always use new bolts — never reuse injector clamp bolts. Clean the bore and seat thoroughly. Check for thread damage in the head; EA288 heads are known to strip if a bolt has previously loosened. If a bolt spins before reaching angle torque, the head threads are already compromised.

Quick Reference Table

Component Torque
Injector clamp bolt 8 Nm + 270°
High‑pressure line nut 28 Nm
 
Many thanks for your reply,much appreciated,just to clarify is the 8Nm + 270° basically when you hit 8Nm on the torque wrench you then give @ another 3/4 of a turn?....hope that makes sense!
 
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Hey all i have a Leon FR 184 Cuna and i am chasing oil use of 1L in 1300 miles,among other things i am about to replace the pcv valve and need to take a couple of injectors out,can anyone confirm that the torque for the replacement injector clamp bolt is 8nm plus 270 deg?........8 nm doesnt seem like a lot!
TIA............
My lad has had this oil use issue - unfortunately the new PCV didn't change it much.

The biggest difference was using some SEAFOAM.
150ml in with the oil and the rest of the bottle in the fuel tank over a couple of tanks of fuel.

This pretty much halved his oil use.
 
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My lad has had this oil use issue - unfortunately the new PCV didn't change it much.

The biggest difference was using some SEAFOAM.
150ml in with the oil and the rest of the bottle in the fuel tank over a couple of tanks of fuel.

This pretty much halved his oil use.
Thaanks for the info....i had some oil in breather pipe from the pcv valve so i thought it was worth a shot....not done it yet as waiting on some parts and tools. Interesting to hear the results from the Seafoam....i have also been looking at addatives/cleaners/treatments/flushes etc to see if i can improve the issue...its a bit of a minefield so good to hear some real world evidence and not just the manufacturers claims about all this stuff.
 
Many thanks for your reply,much appreciated,just to clarify is the 8Nm + 270° basically when you hit 8Nm on the torque wrench you then give @ another 3/4 of a turn?....hope that makes sense!
Yes, correct, but with new bolts.
Take a photo of the top trim code on the injectors so they go back in in the same location, or mark them with a paint pen.
Also should use new copper washer when pulling your injector.
 
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Thaanks for the info....i had some oil in breather pipe from the pcv valve so i thought it was worth a shot....not done it yet as waiting on some parts and tools. Interesting to hear the results from the Seafoam....i have also been looking at addatives/cleaners/treatments/flushes etc to see if i can improve the issue...its a bit of a minefield so good to hear some real world evidence and not just the manufacturers claims about all this stuff.
Oil in the breather pipe can be from a faulty valve, but also from heavy blow by from poor piston ring sealing.
I changed my whole cam cover, and this helped a little, but my main problem I believe now is blowby from low tension rings, which can easily stick and not seal.

Also check your turbo - as that can also be a source for high oil consumption. I've brought a Temu articulating borescope (£52 for the 3.9mm one which can fit in the glow plug hole to look at your pistons/valves, and it's been brilliant, one of my favourite tools, you can check both sides of your turbo to check for oil (mine looks perfect at 160,000 miles) also check your EGR valve.
Also common for crank seal to leak.

I've been toying with "B12 piston soak" which seems popular in the US, (A B-12 piston soak uses Berryman B-12 Chemtool solvent poured directly into engine cylinders to dissolve carbon build-up and free stuck piston rings that cause high oil consumption) but first i'm running Valvoline Restore and Protect, again popular in the US, and seems to have some good results - over a couple of oil fills, (For what it's worth, The motor oil geek likes Restore & Protect, and doesn't like additives.) I'll update my oil usage after a couple refills with R&R to see if it's helped. They say it can take 4 refills at 4,5k miles per refill.

I've added your use case to the log i'm keeping, so you can see how your usage compares to other EA288's.
what's your mileage?
edit to add mileage:
NameL/1000milesmiles to go form max to min levelMileageComments
VAG max allowance0.801,250
No noticeable oil use<0.1010,000If you did 10,000 per year and the low oil light didn't come on:
SuperV80.254,000140,0000.25 is my long term ave. Last top up was 0.19L/1000miles
Compo10.254,00069,000
SteveGSXR600K10.147,14372,500
BenT2.00500140,000before rebuild with old piston rings
BenT0.831,205140,000before rebuild changing to 5w40
BenT0.333,030140,000after rebuild with new piston rings
Saints920.283,571140,000from Skoda forum
Alvis0.801,250100,000from Skoda forum with failed piston
MartinThorn0.175,882102,000
piggasinnaris0.254,00087,000
BillyCool0.254,000149,000
umerb2.0050096,500
dave652.00500140,000
ClintL1.001,0002018 bad pistons, rebuilt engine.
alextz0.0812,500100,000from skoda forum, 2 injectors were bad
nap690.771,300100,0001L in 1300 miles
 
Last edited:
Yes, correct, but with new bolts.
Take a photo of the top trim code on the injectors so they go back in in the same location, or mark them with a paint pen.
Also should use new copper washer when pulling your injector.
Thanks,yeah i have new bolts,washers and o rings,just waiting for some other bits to arrive
 
Oil in the breather pipe can be from a faulty valve, but also from heavy blow by from poor piston ring sealing.
I changed my whole cam cover, and this helped a little, but my main problem I believe now is blowby from low tension rings, which can easily stick and not seal.

Also check your turbo - as that can also be a source for high oil consumption. I've brought a Temu articulating borescope (£52 for the 3.9mm one which can fit in the glow plug hole to look at your pistons/valves, and it's been brilliant, one of my favourite tools, you can check both sides of your turbo to check for oil (mine looks perfect at 160,000 miles) also check your EGR valve.
Also common for crank seal to leak.

I've been toying with "B12 piston soak" which seems popular in the US, (A B-12 piston soak uses Berryman B-12 Chemtool solvent poured directly into engine cylinders to dissolve carbon build-up and free stuck piston rings that cause high oil consumption) but first i'm running Valvoline Restore and Protect, again popular in the US, and seems to have some good results - over a couple of oil fills, (For what it's worth, The motor oil geek likes Restore & Protect, and doesn't like additives.) I'll update my oil usage after a couple refills with R&R to see if it's helped. They say it can take 4 refills at 4,5k miles per refill.

I've added your use case to the log i'm keeping, so you can see how your usage compares to other EA288's.
what's your milage?

NameL/1000milesmiles to go form max to min levelMileageComments
VAG max allowance0.801,250
No noticeable oil use<0.1010,000If you did 10,000 per year and the low oil light didn't come on:
SuperV80.254,000140,0000.25 is my long term ave. Last top up was 0.19L/1000miles
Compo10.254,00069,000
SteveGSXR600K10.147,14372,500
BenT2.00500140,000before rebuild with piston rings
BenT0.831,205140,000before rebuild changing to 5w40
BenT0.333,030140,000after rebuild with new piston rings
Saints920.283,571140,000from Skoda forum
Alvis0.801,250100,000from Skoda forum with failed piston
MartinThorn0.175,882102,000
piggasinnaris0.254,00087,000
BillyCool0.254,000149,000
umerb2.0050096,500
dave652.00500140,000
ClintL1.001,0002018 bad pistons, rebuilt engine.
alextz0.0812,500100,000from skoda forum, 2 injectors were bad
nap690.771,3001L in 1300 miles
Mileage is 100,000 miles,some fantastic info here,although it looks like i am right on the cusp of what is deemed 'acceptable' oil use.I have only just started looking at this,only had the car a year and was suprised when oil light came on after 1300 miles,hence why i now seem to have gone down this rabbit hole!, my old 140 BKD used very little oil.One of my problems now i have retired is that i dont do a lot of miles (in my car at least)......i know ...i prob shouldnt have a diesel! Feel like i have spent the last week on You Tube and the internet to see if i can get this oil use down substantially.I too have been looking at a few of the same things,piston soak,flushes,addatives and in the last couple of days the Valvoline RR came to my attention and i was wondering if that would help,seems its worth a try.If it comes to it iam not prepred to go to the expense of piston/ring replacement as its an 11 year old car.Thanks again for the info and input,i will update this thread with my findings and any changes.
 
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Mileage is 100,000 miles,some fantastic info here,although it looks like i am right on the cusp of what is deemed 'acceptable' oil use.I have only just started looking at this,only had the car a year and was suprised when oil light came on after 1300 miles,hence why i now seem to have gone down this rabbit hole!, my old 140 BKD used very little oil.One of my problems now i have retired is that i dont do a lot of miles (in my car at least)......i know ...i prob shouldnt have a diesel! Feel like i have spent the last week on You Tube and the internet to see if i can get this oil use down substantially.I too have been looking at a few of the same things,piston soak,flushes,addatives and in the last couple of days the Valvoline RR came to my attention and i was wondering if that would help,seems its worth a try.If it comes to it iam not prepred to go to the expense of piston/ring replacement as its an 11 year old car.Thanks again for the info and input,i will update this thread with my findings and any changes.
Keep a log of oil added and mileage, so you can get a picture of your oil consumption.
Mine does seem to vary, with just one reading you don't know if this was a particular high or low result.
Try and find somewhere level to accurately/repeatedly check you oil.
Not a fan of oil additives after watching one too many 'motor oil geek' youtube videos! there are no standards for additives like there are for oil, and there is no way to know how a particular additive will react to your particular oil.

How often is your car doing a DPF regen? as a problem with burning oil - is it contributes to ash build up in your DPF, meaning it will start regen more frequently.
 
Checked out motor oil geek ...very interesting!.......because i do a very low milage (and very impatient!) I am leaning towards a aggresive sustained flush lile the Liqui moly oil sludge scourer for around 150/200 miles then do a B12 piston soak before an oil change and then use the Valvoline RP....oh and yes the car is doing frequent DPF regens as you mentioned.