TBH, you might want to wait until you can get to stage 2 mods before you get coilovers.
At stage 1 they aint really needed, as long as what you have is in good working condition.
Rear ARB and maybe some springs will be plenty for the power you'll have.
Dont agree at all. Any time on track you need fluid.
You will boil it so quickly.
If you do a trackday on oem fluid and have no issues your not driving anywhere near hard enough. You will boil fluid before cooking pads.
And stage 2 before suspension????
Really????
On a track car???
Dont agree at all. Any time on track you need fluid.
You will boil it so quickly.
If you do a trackday on oem fluid and have no issues your not driving anywhere near hard enough. You will boil fluid before cooking pads.
And stage 2 before suspension????
Really????
On a track car???
Maybe I have overplayed the trackday aspect. In reality it will be more of a A/B road toy. I'm a bit too used to high torque diesels and therefore don't really fancy a hi revving N/a petrol.
I've previously had various proper track toys to include a Caterham 7 superlightR with 190bhp & 600kgs.
Yes i saw that. But he must be doing some track time no???
Fluid is a must.
Full stop.
Hitting 100mph on track and having no brakes is extremly dangerous and suggesting oem fluid will be fine is a massive assumption that he wont be hard on brakes. I killed my oem fluid on my very first track day on the first lap.
I promise you this it ruins your tracktime. You need to know the brakes arw fine. More imporatant than ANY other mod.
Fluid is a must, ATE superblue is cheap enough from eurocarparts for it not to be an issue. Personally wether it be for track work or fast road I'd be concentrating on handling and brakes and refreshing suspension components before doing anything with power.
The age of these cars means that suspension probably will need a refresh unless it's been changed already. When I first got mine it felt pretty stiff so thought suspension may be ok. What it actually was was stiff and crashy on low speed corners and floaty and wallows on high speed corners! Coilovers and brakes done on standard power. For now.
Dude, if you say it happened then I’m sure it did. Obviously I wasn’t there to say it didn’t.
But seriously, most people don’t go that hard on a very first track day on the first lap.
If it has the 288 or 312 it’s the same pads so DS2500’s should do fine either way.
The 312mm will cool slightly better, but I’m not sure it’s noticeable.
Whichever setup it has, if you want to upgrade it further than just better pads, I’d look at something like a GT jr 4pot kit. But you’ll also need wheels for that to fit.
Budget probably won't allow new wheels at this stage. I'll stick with oem's and I've got some 312s & calipers in the garage although will need new discs and caliper refurb.
In my opinion get the 312s on. Use ate super blue fluid between 1 and 1.5L flush including the rears!!
If you boil fluid you lose the pedal and no amount of cooling down will make it return only a rebleed so get rid of all old!
Pads the ds2500 are ok but this is hard to judge without knowing your driving style. I have ds3000 on my brembos and they are superb!!!!!! If the price isnt kuch greater get them!!
New discs but dont go mad discs are discs. Dont get drilled but grooved are fine. Not too many though!
When your happy with brakes id go coilovers over springs and shocks but thats your call as they are harsh on the road.
And a remap if thats what you want.
my car is a track car. I do under 1k on the road per year and thats mostly to stop flat battery or things breaking due to lack of use.
Ultimately only you know how much/hard you intend to drive it. How often you intend to track it etc
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