V71 Recirc Air Flow Flap Removal & Replacement

mjstokes85

Diesel Power
Nov 14, 2005
1,519
25
38
Long Eaton
Air Flow Flap V71



I’ll start off with the standard disclaimer that you do this at your own risk, I am not a mechanic, I am not an electrician, all work should be carried out by a professional, I am not responsible for you ruining your car or you injuring/killing yourself etc.

After scanning my car the other day this fault threw up, V71 Air Flow Flap – Static No Define. After some internet research I discovered this is the flap that operates when you press the air recirculation button on your climate control or normal AC. Common symptoms that this flap has failed are:

Constant steaming up of the car (if the flap is stuck in recirc mode).

Not working when you put the car in reverse (you will know if it’s working, it sounds like a plane taking off).

If you don’t have VCDS or a fault scanner then fear not. Hold the recirc button and econ button with the car OFF, then turn the IGNITION ON, your car will run a flap test and show any errors. This flap will be error 4FA. A full list of errors can be found searching on this forum.

After carefully studying ETKA and watching around 25 videos online, mainly of VWs and Skodas and finding none for the 6L Ibiza, I stumbled across an amazing German video that details the whole procedure here:

This video states this is V154, but this is V71, not sure why his error is different (possibly due to LHD?), but it’s the same flap.

I went about looking how I could access this actuator as I was worried it was a dash out job, or at least, glovebox out job. Google searches for V71 reveal a whole myriad of horror stories, but it turns out on the 6L Ibiza you don’t have to remove either.

First off, turn the passenger airbag off with your key, you will be working closely to it, and don’t want to make a tricky job even worse.

Next, pop the side panel off, there is recess at the bottom for a screwdriver. Push the foam soundproofing out the way, it’s zip tied on so you can snip them off if you need to, I could work with it pushed out the way.

Get yourself a good torch (or 640 lumen bike light in my case) and have a look around. At this point I run my climate control and used all the settings to see what actuators do what to confirm I was looking at the culprit.

Next thing to do is remove the trim under the passenger glove box, 3 T25 screws hold this in, maybe 4, I think I might be missing one, pull it off.

Now go face first in to the footwell, and spin your body around so your looking up at the gubbins. You will see a flap either stuck closed (like mine) or stuck open, probably stuck closed. You can try pushing it and switching the recirc on, but that didn’t work for me.

Then (making sure the airbag is off), open your glove box and remove the 2 T25s at the back, and 2 T25s at the top, this drops the lid of the glovebox down to give you room to manoeuvre.

The actuator is held in place by clips and 2 star screws (not sure on the technical term), I didn’t have a star screwdriver but a small flat head worked. The first screw is accessed through your now dropped down glovebox trim (you probably could access this from the side panel but it would require some impressive wrist torsion. The next screw is underneath, on your back looking up at it. Once these are off you can pull the actuator off (unless yours is zip tied to a cable like mine, in which case use cable cutters VERY carefully to snip it off without cutting the cables). Now your actuator is off you can unplug it, hang the wire so it is easily accessible for testing the motor after attempting to fix it.

Now depending on your car you will either have gears (like in the YouTube video), or have an arm like mine (I think gears for standard AC and an arm for Climatronic). The actuator actually opens and closes 2 flaps at a time, one under the scuttle panel and the one in the footwell, if the footwell one is open I think the outside one is closed, which would be recirc mode, if the outside one is open then the inside one is closed and fresh air is coming in to the car. When I manually moved my flap after taking the motor off a tonne of leaves fell out, so outside air must have been coming in.

Now the whole thing is out, the motor can be popped off the housing and opened up to be fixed, or a new motor can be purchased, just go by the part number on the motor, not the housing. I got a new motor from an Audi A1 that matched mine. If you are buying a used one, check the motor date and check you have the right sort of gear on it, there are a lot of different sorts of gears on these motors for different flaps as they generally use the same motor.

I tried to fix mine with contact cleaner and some fresh grease but it was beyond repair. The internet tells me these are potentiometers which are prone to dying over time. The whole units new cost over £120 but just the motor cost me £15.

Part numbers are (note these are for RHD UK cars):

Climate control: 8Z2 819 453 B

Normal AC: 6Q2 819 453 C

Just the motor is: 30.93683.01

This is a good time to swap the cabin filter.

Refitting is a reversal of above, however you will need to make sure the motor is in the correct place for the setting that is currently selected, you can do this by closing the inside flap (the outside one will line up when you fit the motor). If your motor gear fits in this position then your motor is in the correct position, if it's in the recirc on position but your recirc isn’t on, then plug the motor only in not connected to the flaps, and activate it, then disconnect it, and turn off recirc, turn off your ignition, then turn it all back on and connect it up, now the motor is in recirc off mode with your recirc turned off.

This is probably a fault pretty much every 6L Ibiza has at this point, it’s not critical, I just wanted to see if I could fix it. It’s not as scary as it seems, essentially you are undoing some screws and clips, you are just working in a very tight space. It’s fiddly and annoying but doable in about 3-4 hours.

I will add some pics to this at a later date.
 
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J14roj

Active Member
Sep 5, 2018
7
0
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for (hopefully) I’ve recently bought a seat Ibiza 1.2 petrol 2014 and when I start the car there’s a loud clicking noise from behind the glovebox which goes away after 10 or so seconds or if I press the air recirculating button! Does this sound like the fix to the problem from your experience? Also, if anybody has the part number for the motor for my vehicle I’d really appreciate it! Thanks in advance everyone
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,809
988
South Scotland
Yes I'd think so, your best plan is to remove the motor and while it is out just tape the flap linkage in the closed position, then after checking the part number of the flap motor assembly, search for one on ebay etc.

Edit:- one other thing, I'm guessing that your 2014 Ibiza is the pre-face lift version, I'm asking that as the same car from VW changed round about that time, though maybe Ibiza was slightly later in changing.
 
Last edited:

J14roj

Active Member
Sep 5, 2018
7
0
Yes I'd think so, your best plan is to remove the motor and while it is out just tape the flap linkage in the closed position, then after checking the part number of the flap motor assembly, search for one on ebay etc.

Edit:- one other thing, I'm guessing that your 2014 Ibiza is the pre-face lift version, I'm asking that as the same car from VW changed round about that time, though maybe Ibiza was slightly later in changing.

yes it’s the pre facelift! I know Audi seat VW and Skoda are keen on sharing parts but I’m hmmmm unsure which models of said cars could be a donor for mine! When I google or eBay the part for my car there’s a couple listed that are both “compatible” with my vehicle but both very different. When I get under the dash And get it out I’ll get a number off the motor or I suppose order the one that looks the closest from the pictures!
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,809
988
South Scotland
Exactly, having seen it and its part number beats guessing, I've only ever replaced the temperature one in a 2000 VW Passat, it is good to know that it is possible to replace that recirc one in that car and so I'd think in my wife's 2015 6C Polo - there was absolutely no way to replace that flap motor on my old 2000 Passat without removing the entire dashboard.

The other thing might be, that flap motor might be used in a few VW Group cars but it gets fitted into its own bespoke adaptor for that model and then get its own part number for many reasons VW Group tend to use slightly different parts on similar models across the marques - that might sound crazy, but that is what I have found, SEAT tend to use some parts from a previous model relative to VW and Audi, just the way it is, another reason not to assume too much until you have the part out of your car. I know this as I used a repair youtube guide for replacing the rear wiper shaft etc in a Fabia MK1 and it used the repair kit from an earlier Golf, so when I needed to repair my wife's 2002 Polo rear wiper, I got my local VW dealer to order that kit in - a very bad move, the Fabia MK1 shaft and the Golf MK? shaft were one length and the 2002 Polo was slightly different, so I had to pay for another kit!!!

Edit:- one other thing, if it is the adaptor cage that is used to mount that flap motor onto the heater box that has broken, some of these adaptor mountings cover more than one model it seems, so a new one might look different and so need a part of it cut off to suit your application.
 

mjstokes85

Diesel Power
Nov 14, 2005
1,519
25
38
Long Eaton
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for (hopefully) I’ve recently bought a seat Ibiza 1.2 petrol 2014 and when I start the car there’s a loud clicking noise from behind the glovebox which goes away after 10 or so seconds or if I press the air recirculating button! Does this sound like the fix to the problem from your experience? Also, if anybody has the part number for the motor for my vehicle I’d really appreciate it! Thanks in advance everyone

Sounds like you have the issue. If you have a 2014 Ibiza then the process should be a lot easier, from the videos I have watched online for newer Golfs (and I assume Ibizas) are so much easier as the motor is much easier to get to.
 

J14roj

Active Member
Sep 5, 2018
7
0
Sounds like you have the issue. If you have a 2014 Ibiza then the process should be a lot easier, from the videos I have watched online for newer Golfs (and I assume Ibizas) are so much easier as the motor is much easier to get to.
Yeah I’m keeping my fingers crossed it’s straight forward, having my gearbox tweaked so as soon as I get the car back I’ll get in it and see what I can find, there’s a million and 1 of these parts on eBay and even the ones breaking my specific car say check part number first and they vary from vehicle to vehicle which I thought was strange! If it’s just the motor that’s gone I’ll see if I can buy a couple of similar units and keep fingers crossed for a matching part as some are 6 quid on eBay and some are 60
 

thehbd

Active Member
Mar 30, 2016
10
0
Air Flow Flap V71



I’ll start off with the standard disclaimer that you do this at your own risk, I am not a mechanic, I am not an electrician, all work should be carried out by a professional, I am not responsible for you ruining your car or you injuring/killing yourself etc.

After scanning my car the other day this fault threw up, V71 Air Flow Flap – Static No Define. After some internet research I discovered this is the flap that operates when you press the air recirculation button on your climate control or normal AC. Common symptoms that this flap has failed are:

Constant steaming up of the car (if the flap is stuck in recirc mode).

Not working when you put the car in reverse (you will know if it’s working, it sounds like a plane taking off).

If you don’t have VCDS or a fault scanner then fear not. Hold the recirc button and econ button with the car OFF, then turn the IGNITION ON, your car will run a flap test and show any errors. This flap will be error 4FA. A full list of errors can be found searching on this forum.

After carefully studying ETKA and watching around 25 videos online, mainly of VWs and Skodas and finding none for the 6L Ibiza, I stumbled across an amazing German video that details the whole procedure here:

This video states this is V154, but this is V71, not sure why his error is different (possibly due to LHD?), but it’s the same flap.

I went about looking how I could access this actuator as I was worried it was a dash out job, or at least, glovebox out job. Google searches for V71 reveal a whole myriad of horror stories, but it turns out on the 6L Ibiza you don’t have to remove either.

First off, turn the passenger airbag off with your key, you will be working closely to it, and don’t want to make a tricky job even worse.

Next, pop the side panel off, there is recess at the bottom for a screwdriver. Push the foam soundproofing out the way, it’s zip tied on so you can snip them off if you need to, I could work with it pushed out the way.

Get yourself a good torch (or 640 lumen bike light in my case) and have a look around. At this point I run my climate control and used all the settings to see what actuators do what to confirm I was looking at the culprit.

Next thing to do is remove the trim under the passenger glove box, 3 T25 screws hold this in, maybe 4, I think I might be missing one, pull it off.

Now go face first in to the footwell, and spin your body around so your looking up at the gubbins. You will see a flap either stuck closed (like mine) or stuck open, probably stuck closed. You can try pushing it and switching the recirc on, but that didn’t work for me.

Then (making sure the airbag is off), open your glove box and remove the 2 T25s at the back, and 2 T25s at the top, this drops the lid of the glovebox down to give you room to manoeuvre.

The actuator is held in place by clips and 2 star screws (not sure on the technical term), I didn’t have a star screwdriver but a small flat head worked. The first screw is accessed through your now dropped down glovebox trim (you probably could access this from the side panel but it would require some impressive wrist torsion. The next screw is underneath, on your back looking up at it. Once these are off you can pull the actuator off (unless yours is zip tied to a cable like mine, in which case use cable cutters VERY carefully to snip it off without cutting the cables). Now your actuator is off you can unplug it, hang the wire so it is easily accessible for testing the motor after attempting to fix it.

Now depending on your car you will either have gears (like in the YouTube video), or have an arm like mine (I think gears for standard AC and an arm for Climatronic). The actuator actually opens and closes 2 flaps at a time, one under the scuttle panel and the one in the footwell, if the footwell one is open I think the outside one is closed, which would be recirc mode, if the outside one is open then the inside one is closed and fresh air is coming in to the car. When I manually moved my flap after taking the motor off a tonne of leaves fell out, so outside air must have been coming in.

Now the whole thing is out, the motor can be popped off the housing and opened up to be fixed, or a new motor can be purchased, just go by the part number on the motor, not the housing. I got a new motor from an Audi A1 that matched mine. If you are buying a used one, check the motor date and check you have the right sort of gear on it, there are a lot of different sorts of gears on these motors for different flaps as they generally use the same motor.

I tried to fix mine with contact cleaner and some fresh grease but it was beyond repair. The internet tells me these are potentiometers which are prone to dying over time. The whole units new cost over £120 but just the motor cost me £15.

Part numbers are (note these are for RHD UK cars):

Climate control: 8Z2 819 453 B

Normal AC: 6Q2 819 453 C

Just the motor is: 30.93683.01

This is a good time to swap the cabin filter.

Refitting is a reversal of above, however you will need to make sure the motor is in the correct place for the setting that is currently selected, you can do this by closing the inside flap (the outside one will line up when you fit the motor). If your motor gear fits in this position then your motor is in the correct position, if it's in the recirc on position but your recirc isn’t on, then plug the motor only in not connected to the flaps, and activate it, then disconnect it, and turn off recirc, turn off your ignition, then turn it all back on and connect it up, now the motor is in recirc off mode with your recirc turned off.

This is probably a fault pretty much every 6L Ibiza has at this point, it’s not critical, I just wanted to see if I could fix it. It’s not as scary as it seems, essentially you are undoing some screws and clips, you are just working in a very tight space. It’s fiddly and annoying but doable in about 3-4 hours.

I will add some pics to this at a later date.

Hi, thanks for your post. I have also disassembled my flap motor today with the help of the german video, and after treating the contacts I wanted to put it back only to find out it is not that simple. my model is older and more complex with 2 plastic arms that connect to the motor and rotate the flap, different than the models here, and I can't seem to get it in .... anyone can help me with this? mine is a 2003 bby . the part number is:
1614446037134.png

does anyone has this or the diagram for it?
 

mjstokes85

Diesel Power
Nov 14, 2005
1,519
25
38
Long Eaton
My motor also had the arms, it was a pain to get them back in and lined up but I got there in the end, It was just very fiddly and time consuming.
 

thehbd

Active Member
Mar 30, 2016
10
0
My motor also had the arms, it was a pain to get them back in and lined up but I got there in the end, It was just very fiddly and time consuming.

any chance you disassemble it while taking a video again? :p
Really, i don't know even if the arms are set as they should sinceone of them got out of its rail...and the access there is practically non ,and on your back! and I'm 185cm.. I'm dispered
 

Ferryman

1.8T Goes Like Hell
Oct 23, 2008
208
2
Helsinki, Finland
Bit of a necro however, I've been trying to figure it out for three days and it is driving me mad :banghead2

If anyone who has replaced the lever type variant used on Climatronic equipped cars recalls:

The V71 motor in this case looks pretty much like this:

8WXFyiz.jpg


While the flap assembly, that is moved by this motor looks like this:

PCOaox0.jpg


The purpose of the hole in the motor plate is obvious however, things become much less obvious when it comes to the lug in the motor plate...
Most of the confusion is cause by the fact, that the illustration in the official repair guide (Erwin) appears to be partially mirrored.

The hole displayed in the illustration is not only way too large but also in the wrong position to allow sufficient movement for the motor plate. The smaller hole (at roughly two o'clock in the picture) is closer to the right size however, the whole structure for whatever reason, is inverted in the technical drawing...

The picture of the flap assembly is from a site selling salvage parts however, the one present in my car is identical for the mentioned parts.

To make matters even worse, Erwin / ELSA has no information whatsoever for Ibiza 6L when it comes down to the heating system...
Luckily, the same components are used e.g. in VW Polo and Skoda Fabia and some of the information could be scraped from there.

uhXH8zl.png


JiT72B3.png


So the question is, which one is the right hole? :cheeky:
 

mjstokes85

Diesel Power
Nov 14, 2005
1,519
25
38
Long Eaton
Ok so the red circles, the bottom arm that sticks out goes in to the back of the red one at the top circled.
Then the motor goes in to the blue ones circled.
InkedPCOaox0_LI.jpg
 

mjstokes85

Diesel Power
Nov 14, 2005
1,519
25
38
Long Eaton
Hmm...
I don't think the method you describe would be even possible.

If that would be the case, then there would be no way to attach the motor itself to drive the flap mechanism.

I found a russian guide which specifies a similar workflow (for a VW Polo) as the original service guide however, even that fails to show which one is the right hole :banghead2

https://www.drive2.ru/l/451673055572263305/
Sorry my bad it's been a while since I did this, the two red circles are where the motor goes in to.
 
Last edited:
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Oct 27, 2021
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Anyone know if there is much difference between the 6L and the 6J? As in terms of this job, access to the motor etc
 
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