What are these polishes?

[killieboy123]

At christmas my parents got me a machine polisher. It's a da one so I'm pleased with that. They got the menzerna pack off cleanyourcar. I got 4 bottles and 6 pads but I can't figure out what the bottles are for. Any help would be appreciated. They all seen really similar but I'm sure someone can enlighten me. This is the info on each.

1- final finish
- deep cut
- guarantees a deep wet look finish
- hologram and haze free
- keeps your workplace tidy

2- super finish
- deep cut
- guarantees a deep wet look finish
- hologram and haze free

3- power finish
- medium cut
- guarantees a deep wet look finish
- hologram and haze free

4- power gloss
- light cut
- swiftly eliminates sanding marks and overspray
- keeps your workplace tidy

 

[killieboy123]

Also what are the rules with washing, polishing etc my vinyl roof?

 

[great_kahn]

Best a mod moves this to the detailing section. Loads of pros in there.

I've never done machine polishing, but i think you start with the deeper cutting polish to remove the heavy swirls etc. Then move onto the lighter finishing polish.

Don't you should use a cutting polish on vinyl. Think just wash and wax it.

 

[lawrieIbizaMk4]

yup best going to the detailing section mate, i'd say number one for after winter then each time you do it it move up one then just use the light cut stuff to maintain the polish

 

[killieboy123]

Never even thought or I would have. So are they all polishes or are any scratch remover, polish, glaze, wax? I've got other stuff to use but I may as well use this since I have it.

 

[great_kahn]

Never even thought or I would have. So are they all polishes or are any scratch remover, polish, glaze, wax? I've got other stuff to use but I may as well use this since I have it.

There all corrective polishes. So they contain abrasive cutting compounds.

A polish like Auto glym super resin polish contains no abrasives to my knowledge and uses fillers to hide swirls etc.

Then there are some polishes that have both. Think dodo juice lime prime for example.

Glaze goes on after polishing, gives wet glossy look.

Then your final layer is Wax or sealant or both, i use paste carnuba paste wax called dodo juice diamond white. This seals in the polish and glaze and protects it from rain and dirt.

Wash
Clay
wash
dry
polish
glaze
wax

Basic detail there.

 

[killieboy123]

Yeah that's what I'm doing just now. I use srp (need to buy more actually). Just wondered what category these came under and what to use them for.

 

[Blanco92]

I've got Menzerna Final Finish and Power Gloss ready to be used in the summer, bought some following a recommendation by a detailing friend.

I've only used it for bits and bobs on the car so far, not treated full panels as of yet. First impressions are good though. The Power Gloss is very strong, but my car has LOADS of swirl marks (previous owner like petrol station car wash machines ) so I figured I needed something strong.

You then use the Final Finish which is not very strong at all, it's just a pure glossy polish. In effect, these 2 polishes repair the paintwork, rather than fill it like Autoglym SRP does (I've nothing against that product BTW, used it with great success in the past).

It is said that you can go straight from using Power Gloss, then onto Final Finish. After this you then apply your choice of sealant and then wax.

 

[Bondiblu]

sign up at http://www.detailingworld.co.uk, so much useful reference there, and some really clued up people.

 

[n_d_fox]

All the Menzerna polishes have a scale on the back of the bottle with an arrow head on the cut scale to show how much cut the compound offers.

Your pads will be in a similar scale from cutting to polishing and then finishing. Usually different colours for the different levels but the density of the foam and the firmness is what makes the difference in its abilities.

Generally you should start with the least abbrasive compound and a finishing pad to machine polish a car. Work the compound into the paint and then check the level of correction obtained. If it isnt enough, step up to the next level of cut on the compound and keep the same pad. Try this and then check. Essentially you are looking for a pad and polish combo that works for you. you dont have to use a high cut pad and polish to get results. in some cases you can actually make more of a mess going in too heavy at the start.

A lot of heavy cut polishes and pads will not finish down to a level that you can then seal, glaze or wax. They will leave polishing damage such as marring or holograming that then needs to be polished out using lower cut compounds and finishing pads.

SRP has its place but it you are going to use the Menzerna polishes to machine your car it may as well stay on the shelf. SRP is filler heavy and does actually contain abbreasives (albeit very fine ones). You will be aiming to polish out the swirls and scratches that SRP covers up so there should be no need to use it.

For a true finish you should also consider an IPA wipe down after polishing with a compound. Most compounds are oil heavy or contain some light fillers so can hide the true finish.

As mentioned glazes will add gloss. Something like DoDo Juice Lime Prime Light is an easy step to add into a full detail. This will also ready the finish for wax or sealant.

I've mentioned the many different types of sealant in another thread reply but after polishing you can use a dedicated sealant to lock in the work / finish you have achieved and then wax on top of that.

Someone mentioned DetailingWorld... best piece of advice in this thread. You need to read all of the guides around machine polishing and look at some of the techniques the guys use on there. You will also pick up a hell of a lot of tips and info.

Other than that, take your time. Read as many guides as you can and remember to go in light handed with the machine. A DA is much kinder to the paint than a rotary but it can still make a mess if you are not careful.

HTH, Nige

 

[jonjay]

Other than that, take your time. Read as many guides as you can and remember to go in light handed with the machine. A DA is much kinder to the paint than a rotary but it can still make a mess if you are not careful.

HTH, Nige

Great advise as usual Nige.

Just to pick up on the last point Nige made. Both machines need respect and you can damage the paint if your not careful.

Remember ANYONE can detail a car and ANYONE can machine polish. The best detailers are the ones that take the least clearcoat and leave the best finish.

One thing you will pick up with experience and hey I am still learning 3 years on is how far to go when polishing and when to stop and say "hey I cant correct every single piece of RDS out there".

If you have a look at this picture you will see what is possible if you take very good care on the car. only 2 pieces of RDS visible in that section of the roof on my car. This was with a DA and I since moved onto Rotary.

*this was BEFORE correcting the roof of those RDS marks.


Take your time, read, learn and practise.

 

[killieboy123]

Thanks a lot. That's really explained it. Yeah I've been doing nothing but reading tips and watching videos since I got it. Had a shot just on the bonnet but will do the whole car when I have a day off so I don't need to rush it. Was looking at buying poorboys white diamond and have ordered dodo juice supernatural, the push up one for polishers. Just a small one the now though.

So is the menzerna light cut polish ok to use on my vinyl? Or just wax?

 

[n_d_fox]

Sorry, forgot the vinyl...

I dont think it is safe to machine polish vinyl at all... if its a matt finish there are specific Swissvax and Zymol products for matt paint / vinyl but be prepared to pay for those premium brands.

The problem is, any machine polisher will generate heat when moving on the paint, if the vinyl heats up too much it will shift. Also, the polishes and wax will more than likely dry to a white haze which you wont be able to get off the vinyl easily.