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leonfrtdi150
Guest
Yeh I wanted the intercooler to fill the mouth of the bumper but not be too much and get too much lag so went for quite a small but quite deep intercooler with 2.5" pipework. Had to trim some of the bumper for the hard piping but managed to keep the fog lights as I thought I might have to loose them!!
If I want to hard pipe all the way from the EGR to the intercooler, might need some more pipework and also need to attach the boost pressure sensor I think as it bolts through the standard pipework (on the 130 PD kit from Toyosports they supply a pipe with the hole for the sensor and bolt holes already drilled), hopefully will get that done in time...
Currently blew one of the pipes off so got some stronger T clamps instead of jubilee clips and some silicone reducers to go from my larger 2.5" pipework to the smaller standard pipework which will hopefully go on tomorrow.
you left the old unit in place then? I know its not very deep but it is got a huge surface area.
Don't be shocked if you loose a bit of power too (def won't have gained any.) I've heared mixed reviews with the Toyosports kits. Some say great others say very poor. I've seen some tests done on 1.8t's and they didn't come out very well. Hay ho, hopefully you'll be fine.
Don't be shocked if you loose a bit of power too (def won't have gained any.) I've heared mixed reviews with the Toyosports kits. Some say great others say very poor. I've seen some tests done on 1.8t's and they didn't come out very well. Hay ho, hopefully you'll be fine.
leonfrtdi150
Guest
Yeah I left the old unit in place incase I don't think much of the Toyosports intercooler and want to revert back to standard at some time, will see when I get it back tomorrow and when I have it rolling roaded what (if any) difference there is. I agree the original intercooler has a massive surface area, but it isn't very deep and is hidden behind the A/C rad and the mouth of the Cupra/FR bumper isn't that big. If it isn't great I will probably take it out and just use the allard hard pipe kit instead.
I couldn't find on forge's website any pipes for the boost pressure sensor, I did find a kit from Allard which goes from EGR delete to the standard intercooler (don't think it goes from the intercooler to turbo and removes the "pancake pipe"). Which is titled "Allard Volkswagen Golf Mk4 Tdi 150 intercooler pipe kit"
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0016&product=FMMAPT
have you had it on a dyno before?
have you had it on a dyno before?
leonfrtdi150
Guest
Thats great, what I was looking for if I want to fully hardpipe using my 2.5" kit, otherwise alternative is to use the allard 2.25" kit.
No I haven't had mine on the dyno before, going to the same company (Celtic Tuning) which dyno'd my friends A3 1.9 TDI 130 so was going to measure it against what he got. He had a Full milltek system and cone filter and got about 145bhp. I will also have a full milltek system, panel filter and intercooler so was going to see how much mine is running - if its about 15bhp up on standard then it wont have made a difference.
Only other thing is that his had 145,000 miles on, mine will have 95,000 although not sure whether that will make much difference.
He said that he felt a bit of difference with his Toyosports intercooler kit - although I know the PD 130's have the small side mount intercooler which I don't know how good it is - I imagine not that great as there are several kits for the PD 130 and not intercooler bespoke kits for the PD 150 yet.
tbh i wouldof left the standard fmic alone as that one looks tiny compared to the original one, the front mount original intercooler is good for at least 300bhp esp if u can get the propper clamps that clamp the hoses on (or just use jubille clips, u may laugh but it works !!) ive got a hybrid turbo on my fr and its running 240bhp fine.
ive also got a pipercross induction kit with a bigger cold air feed coming from the bumper grill which works a treat and it DOES NOT damage the turbo in anyway, its a foam filter and still filters the air just like any otha normal filter, if ther was any chance in it damaging the turbo then y would world rally cars and other motorsports use them ??!! it lets in ALOT more colder air than the standard air intake/ airbox design as its just ****, hardly any cold air actually gets to the filter due to the intake being hidden behind the headlight and the small intake pipe. Some people have put a cold air feed in from the front bumper to the original airbox but have found that if water goes up it its trapped in the airbox thus making the paper filter wet and then it being no good at all but with a open cone filter this wont happen
more colder air makes a HUGE differnce in any car, without oxygen nothing can burn !!
A full milltek system is the way forward, the cat is the most restrictive part in the exhaust and ull see good results from it and the bonus is with it being a tdi its not needed for the mot
from what uve added ull see results of around the 190bhp 280torgue figures hope this info helps u mate
im just going by the info that ive had and my experiences of modding my fr
ive also got a pipercross induction kit with a bigger cold air feed coming from the bumper grill which works a treat and it DOES NOT damage the turbo in anyway, its a foam filter and still filters the air just like any otha normal filter, if ther was any chance in it damaging the turbo then y would world rally cars and other motorsports use them ??!! it lets in ALOT more colder air than the standard air intake/ airbox design as its just ****, hardly any cold air actually gets to the filter due to the intake being hidden behind the headlight and the small intake pipe. Some people have put a cold air feed in from the front bumper to the original airbox but have found that if water goes up it its trapped in the airbox thus making the paper filter wet and then it being no good at all but with a open cone filter this wont happen
more colder air makes a HUGE differnce in any car, without oxygen nothing can burn !!
A full milltek system is the way forward, the cat is the most restrictive part in the exhaust and ull see good results from it and the bonus is with it being a tdi its not needed for the mot
from what uve added ull see results of around the 190bhp 280torgue figures hope this info helps u mate
im just going by the info that ive had and my experiences of modding my frwell no i dont cus it doesnt need reconditioning !! my last golf tdi had a k+n induction kit that was on ther for nearly 90,000 and i NEVER touched the turbo and is still going today so what ur saying is aload of **** !! my leon fr has done 30,000 miles now with the induction kit and the turbo is as good as new, i even asked cr turbos if the new turbo will b ok with the induction kit and they said itll b fine and will still warrenty the turbo for me with it on but obv the turbo is guna wear due to age, misuse etc but putting a cone filter on is NOT going to damage a turbo !!!!!
anyway im not guna start an argument im going by what ive done to my car, what improvements my mods have made and what ive heard from other members, im just saying that a filter is a FILTER whether its paper or foam and that a turbo will NOT be damaged due to this as like someones already mentioned above thers more chance of crap getting sucked in thro the engine oil breather than thro the airfilter !!
Any turbo will get worn due to the air going thro it as air is abrasive, and anyway im giving my advice and experience to James (leontdifr150) not you !!
anyway im not guna start an argument im going by what ive done to my car, what improvements my mods have made and what ive heard from other members, im just saying that a filter is a FILTER whether its paper or foam and that a turbo will NOT be damaged due to this as like someones already mentioned above thers more chance of crap getting sucked in thro the engine oil breather than thro the airfilter !!
Any turbo will get worn due to the air going thro it as air is abrasive, and anyway im giving my advice and experience to James (leontdifr150) not you !!
I used to use a Green cotton filter, but have gone back to the standard OEM filter.
The reason is because I've read about too many cases on various VAG forums about the performance air filters causing pitting and damage to turbos.
Apparently "the story about the k&n is the gauze is easy to damage and can get small holes in it and lets thru a fair bit of dirt", which is a quote I found on TDISport.com ( http://tdisport.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=7329 ), where people were having a similar debate.
Since OEM filters are cheap and there are NO bad reports about them, as well as no performance increase with the uprated ones and them being expensive, then I think I'll be sticking with the standard ones from now on.
The reason is because I've read about too many cases on various VAG forums about the performance air filters causing pitting and damage to turbos.
Apparently "the story about the k&n is the gauze is easy to damage and can get small holes in it and lets thru a fair bit of dirt", which is a quote I found on TDISport.com ( http://tdisport.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=125&t=7329 ), where people were having a similar debate.
Since OEM filters are cheap and there are NO bad reports about them, as well as no performance increase with the uprated ones and them being expensive, then I think I'll be sticking with the standard ones from now on.
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To answer the original question, I think 200 BHP is over-optimistic, and a lot will depend on the skill of the tuner (remapper), as you've hardly got any real power mods listed there. A bigger turbo (and racing injectors) will give you an appreciable power increase.
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This is page 1.
Inadequate filtering will damage your engine and turbo. Given that there are no performance gains to be had, it seems pointless to change the filter and take the risk. Unless you retain the cold-air pipework to the front of the car, you'll also be sucking in hot dirty air from the engine compartment, which won't help.
Intake air is filtered for good reasons, and if there's no need to change it, why bother? It's not as if you're trying to make a dump valve sound louder, after all.
Inadequate filtering will damage your engine and turbo. Given that there are no performance gains to be had, it seems pointless to change the filter and take the risk. Unless you retain the cold-air pipework to the front of the car, you'll also be sucking in hot dirty air from the engine compartment, which won't help.
Intake air is filtered for good reasons, and if there's no need to change it, why bother? It's not as if you're trying to make a dump valve sound louder, after all.
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Any who. Just have a read at what mj put. Still stand by what I said. Plenty of people running various filters without any, I repeat.. Any problems. Performance gains or lack of aside. Most modern after market filters from named brands do a good job of filtering harmfull particles etc, and are pretty well tested in some cases.
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The OP reminds me of me a few years back, burning all my cash on cars and often making them worse, or at least no better.
Basically:
*Panel filter - Little to no gain at all, possible risk of poor air filtration.
*Universal intercooler and full hard piping - Stock intercooler is very good unless you are going mental with upgraded turbos. If the pipework as seen better days then upgrading that isn't a bad thing - the standard pipework clips do come loose/blow off as they get old.
*EGR delete - Can't see this would make any significant power gain either, but I'm lead to believe it is at least a cheap DIY mod?
*Full milltek system including decat - Again, waste of money IMO. Standard exhausts are pretty good these days, only need to upgrade if you are running mega power. Performance exhausts really date back to the days when manufacturers would make 4.0 engines producing 150bhp combined with inefficient pea-shooter exhausts. Modern cars tend to have the exhaust set up pretty good anyway, why would powerflow be able to weld together some tubes better than SEAT could develop them?
*Custom remap - The only thing on this list I would personally bother with.
Anyway, I assume the OP will spend loads of cash on all that stuff and still be disappointed when the car only makes 185-200bhp..... probably running and sounding like a bag of **** too.
Basically:
*Panel filter - Little to no gain at all, possible risk of poor air filtration.
*Universal intercooler and full hard piping - Stock intercooler is very good unless you are going mental with upgraded turbos. If the pipework as seen better days then upgrading that isn't a bad thing - the standard pipework clips do come loose/blow off as they get old.
*EGR delete - Can't see this would make any significant power gain either, but I'm lead to believe it is at least a cheap DIY mod?
*Full milltek system including decat - Again, waste of money IMO. Standard exhausts are pretty good these days, only need to upgrade if you are running mega power. Performance exhausts really date back to the days when manufacturers would make 4.0 engines producing 150bhp combined with inefficient pea-shooter exhausts. Modern cars tend to have the exhaust set up pretty good anyway, why would powerflow be able to weld together some tubes better than SEAT could develop them?
*Custom remap - The only thing on this list I would personally bother with.
Anyway, I assume the OP will spend loads of cash on all that stuff and still be disappointed when the car only makes 185-200bhp..... probably running and sounding like a bag of **** too.
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