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paul_white

Active Member
Feb 25, 2013
103
0
Derbyshire
Hi I'm new here and looking for some advice, basically I'm after an altea 2.0tdi (140) 2006 iv seen a few that look good but I'm wondering if there is anything I should be looking out for? It's got to last me a while (5+ years) and I wouldn't mind playing with the engine but I haven't a clue what to look out for or how to find any hidden faults, I'm looking at between 30-40k mark so there shouldn't be too many problems...?? Any advice would be appreciated.
.Cheers. Paul
 
Hi I'm new here and looking for some advice, basically I'm after an altea 2.0tdi (140) 2006 iv seen a few that look good but I'm wondering if there is anything I should be looking out for? It's got to last me a while (5+ years) and I wouldn't mind playing with the engine but I haven't a clue what to look out for or how to find any hidden faults, I'm looking at between 30-40k mark so there shouldn't be too many problems...?? Any advice would be appreciated.
.Cheers. Paul

when you test drive it give it a bit of welly to make sure the turbo vanes arnt stuck or any other faults that put the car in to protection mode

unless the turbo gets a blast every once in a while the vanes can stick

MM
 
Check the bottom of the windscreen for milkyness, water penetrates the laminates at the bottom and it progresses up the screen. Not too much of a problem but can be used as a bargaining tool against the seller. New windscreen is the only cure, then wait for it to start again in a few years time.

Turbo "Owl or Police siren" noise. If it sounds like you're being followed by a copper a few hundred yards behind, don't worry too much as most of them do this. If it's like he's right behind you or there's an owl in the engine bay, walk away.

Check inner edges of the rear tyres for wear. The rear axle geometry is critical and if set incorrectly causes inner edge wear and also sounds like a rear wheel bearing away.

Make sure the radio gets a good signal. Try it on the AM frequency as well, and if you can't get any AM stations very well, then the aerial is goosed. Cost about £30 is for a new base and antenna, and an hour to replace yourself.

Check the rear lights are working correctly. The side lights and brake lights are the same single filament bulb, just fed with different voltages for each, and the terminals inside the fitting corrode away. If one side is slightly brighter than the other, then there's a problem with the connection. Can be replaced with a part from the dealers, but more ammo for you.

There'll probably be more but I've just got in from work.
 
oh on another note whats this "bkd" all about ..... as far as understand its the engine type / number but is there one better than the other? or do they all have there advantages / disadvantages? is it worth looking for a specific one? or could i possibly use this to my advantage when i go to buy my car? ;)
 
BLS is the 1.9 TDI engine code with 105bhp.

BKD is the 2.0ltr TDI engine code with 140bhp

AZV is the 2.0ltr TDI engine code with 136bhp.

BJB is the 1.9 TDI engine code with 105bhp

BMN is the 2.0ltr TDI engine code with 170bhp.

BKC is the 1.9 TDI engine code with 105bhp.

BXE is the 1.9 TDI engine code with 105bhp.

BMM is the 2.0ltr TDI engine code with 140bhp.

BMN is the 2.0ltr TDI engine code with 170bhp.

There are others with commonrail TDI engines (after 2008) which I haven't listed. Some of those I have listed may not be available however, just that they were built at some point.
 
cheers viking glad to have that one cleared up :D im reading through the posts in the altea section at the moment and it keeps cropping up :)
 
To be honest if I was looking at a five year car I'd spend a bit more and get the later Common Rail engine.

However, I had a BKD 140 for four years and it was very good. I did replace the turbo at one point.
 
Cheers skard well I say 5 years but that's only because I do about 8k miles a year I'm trying to get my hands on something with less than 30k miles so should last me a while and iv only got 6-7k to spend so as long as I don't need to do some major repairs every year then I should be ok. Wouldn't mind getting a remap and clutch upgrade but iv got to look into it a little more. Can't seem to find allot of info about clutches I'm trying to find an uprated one that can handle 400+ foot pounds of torque but all the ones iv seen on the web either don't have the info available or are OEM,
 
If you plan on a remap then you will need a new turbo, DMF and clutch over the course of a few years.

I replaced my wooing, turbo with another brand new OEM one and it was quickly wooing again, that was with regular oil changes and me letting the turbo wind down before killing the ignition every time.

The BKD had issues with the cylinder head, if I recall there is an A, B and C version, with only C being the 'definitely revised' version, but that i may be corrected on.

Darkside Developments do an uprated clutch, but the DMF on these cars break up at stock torque levels, so consider that to save on labour costs.
 
cheers m8
yeah iv read that some heads can be porous....??? but as to the clutch im defiantly on the look out for an uprated DMF and clutch plate :D
isnt the main problem with the turbo something to do with the bearings? was thinking of uprating that too when it comes to the re-map but need to look into it a bit more ....do some more research ;)