rich hughes
Guest
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If you can get hold of a MK4 polo haynes manual, you will find a wiring diagram in there. I would scan mine but, it comes up really dark. Its most probably a dodgy Earth wire, If you look around towards the rear left hand side of the rocker cover you should find it. I had the same problem with my speedo and bought new clocks like a nob ! Screwed wire down and it was fine.
rich hughes
Guest
did you lose everything or just speedo?
I've got nothing, no speedo, rev counter or mileometer.
Will mk4 polo wiring be the the same?
I've got nothing, no speedo, rev counter or mileometer.
Will mk4 polo wiring be the the same?
I had no speedo and no mileometer, the revs worked but, as it was a loose wire it couldve gone either way I guess.
Scanned in the wiring diagram for the instrument cluster, it doesnt scan terribly well but, should help a little.
Key to Items (didnt scan all that well)
1 Battery
4 Ignition switch
5 Fusebox
50 Instrument Cluster
51 Handbrake Switch
52 Brake fluid warning light
53 Oil pressure switch (0.3 bar)
54 Vehicle speed sensor
55 Coolant level sensor
56 Oil pressure switch (Diesel models)
57 Oil Temp. sender
As I said, its for a MK4 polo so it may not be spot on but, mostly the same.
Any chance of getting this made a sticky ? Might be useful in the future.
Key to Items (didnt scan all that well)
1 Battery
4 Ignition switch
5 Fusebox
50 Instrument Cluster
- a = Coolant Temp. gauge
- b = Rear foglight warning light
- c = Brake system warning light
- d = Fuel gauge
- e = Alternator
- f = Main beam warning light
- g = Instrument illumination
- h = LH indicator
- i = RH indicator
- j = Control unit with display
- k = Oil pressure warning light
- l = Coolant level and Temp. warning light
- m = Oil pressure warning buzzer
- n = Odometer display
- o = Rev. counter
- p = Voltage stabiliser
- q = Digital clock
- r = Display illumination
- s = Glow plug warning light (Diesel models)
51 Handbrake Switch
52 Brake fluid warning light
53 Oil pressure switch (0.3 bar)
54 Vehicle speed sensor
55 Coolant level sensor
56 Oil pressure switch (Diesel models)
57 Oil Temp. sender
As I said, its for a MK4 polo so it may not be spot on but, mostly the same.
Any chance of getting this made a sticky ? Might be useful in the future.
rich hughes
Guest
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
ngb
Guest
right buddy,
I had exactly the same problem on my mk2 1.4 arosa. ended up looking deep into elsawin to find the wiring diagrams for both the arosa models and they are actually different.
i checked all the feeds and negs up to the two plugs, one green and one blue if i remember correctly, and they were good. i unplugged the two plugs on several occasions and nothing. right, you have to remove both the plugs covers and slide out the internal connector. spray the connectors both sides with electrical contact cleaner with an old clean toothbrush. spay the housings and clean them too before inserting internal connector back. the connectors covers are very awkward to get off if you have not worked on them before and you will notice that when you took them off its a rotational lever that locks the connector into the rear of the clocks. rebuild in reverse of removal and plug back in.my clocks sprung back to life immediately. just dirty contacts. if you follow this procedure first then they still do not work then i will post the wiring diagram with details of fuse locations and connector pin data.
I had exactly the same problem on my mk2 1.4 arosa. ended up looking deep into elsawin to find the wiring diagrams for both the arosa models and they are actually different.
i checked all the feeds and negs up to the two plugs, one green and one blue if i remember correctly, and they were good. i unplugged the two plugs on several occasions and nothing. right, you have to remove both the plugs covers and slide out the internal connector. spray the connectors both sides with electrical contact cleaner with an old clean toothbrush. spay the housings and clean them too before inserting internal connector back. the connectors covers are very awkward to get off if you have not worked on them before and you will notice that when you took them off its a rotational lever that locks the connector into the rear of the clocks. rebuild in reverse of removal and plug back in.my clocks sprung back to life immediately. just dirty contacts. if you follow this procedure first then they still do not work then i will post the wiring diagram with details of fuse locations and connector pin data.
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