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Bosch Plugs v NGK Plugs
- Thread starter vwbassett
- Start date
personally i wouldn't fit Bosch if you paid me too but that's personal experience not because it's original fit min.
I sell NGK aftermarket all day (motor factors) and dragster with nitrous on the race spec ones and never had one misfire or returned faulty in last 22 years i have done parts so NGK is always my ONLY choice personally and professionally.
for the 20vt specific i have heard some good reviews on the Denso plugs too mind and there are a few threads about them.
Bosch let me down on more than one occasion with different cars/engines so would never entertain them ever i'm afraid.
I sell NGK aftermarket all day (motor factors) and dragster with nitrous on the race spec ones and never had one misfire or returned faulty in last 22 years i have done parts so NGK is always my ONLY choice personally and professionally.
for the 20vt specific i have heard some good reviews on the Denso plugs too mind and there are a few threads about them.
Bosch let me down on more than one occasion with different cars/engines so would never entertain them ever i'm afraid.
turbin
Guest
Sounds like youre the dood to ask. i have a remapped LCR pushing 22psi. What NGK plugs do you reccomend?
Used them in the US on a Z28 LT1 engine and way better than anything else I tried.
PFR6Q is the direct replacement as standard
i have known on other engines use a colder plug to help when high boosting/power 7/8 in the heat range and as high as 9/10 but the only direct comparisons i have had on that scale is big nitro v8's and supercharged v6 ford's not got myself 20vt'd yet
standard copper core is as stated - copper electrode, platinum comes either coated electrode or pure material and is more expensive but by design last's longer 2-3 times longer, then iridium which is harder and stronger again over platinum usually with a more refined/shaped electrode and suggested to last 6 times longer but seen some suggested 100k mile intervals for iridium down to 30k miles for hard use.
personally as my own guide i go by:
copper 10k
platinum 20k
iridium 30k
but then to me they are a consumable that i can personally get straight off a shelf for little cost if at all lol but either way regular checking of the color and gaps is the most important whichever you use as it can tell a lot about how an engine is running.
my 16v at present is on standard spec copper cores and is on it's 3rd set in 6k miles so mine rarely even get dirty
i have known on other engines use a colder plug to help when high boosting/power 7/8 in the heat range and as high as 9/10 but the only direct comparisons i have had on that scale is big nitro v8's and supercharged v6 ford's not got myself 20vt'd yet
standard copper core is as stated - copper electrode, platinum comes either coated electrode or pure material and is more expensive but by design last's longer 2-3 times longer, then iridium which is harder and stronger again over platinum usually with a more refined/shaped electrode and suggested to last 6 times longer but seen some suggested 100k mile intervals for iridium down to 30k miles for hard use.
personally as my own guide i go by:
copper 10k
platinum 20k
iridium 30k
but then to me they are a consumable that i can personally get straight off a shelf for little cost if at all
lol but either way regular checking of the color and gaps is the most important whichever you use as it can tell a lot about how an engine is running.my 16v at present is on standard spec copper cores and is on it's 3rd set in 6k miles so mine rarely even get dirty
turbin
Guest
So PFR6Q then? Im only boosting 20-22psi and stock plugs dont misfire so prolly dont need a colder range.... do I ?
here's a chart for comparison
and direct from NGK technical sheet that will explain it better than i ever could
Spark Plug Service
As a rule, replacement spark plugs should have the same or better service interval as the original plugs. Long-life platinum and iridium spark plugs cost a little more than standard spark plugs and are an excellent upgrade for engines that were not originally equipped with these types of plugs. So replace same with same or better - unless an engine that was originally equipped with long-life spark plugs has a plug fouling problem due to high oil consumption. In this case, it doesn't matter what type of spark plugs you install because they won't last as long as normal. If the oil burning problem cannot be fixed, switching to a slightly hotter plug may help reduce fouling.
For performance applications, switching to a slightly cooler spark plug can reduce the risk of pre-ignition and detonation at high rpm and loads.
Choosing Racing Spark Plugs
Selecting the proper spark plugs for a performance engine can mean the difference between front of the pack and not finishing the race. When using this guide, understand that race plugs are usually of a much colder heat range rating than standard automotive spark plugs. Colder spark plugs must be used in engines with increased cylinder pressures, higher temperatures and greater horsepower. Other factors such as fuel delivery (turbo, supercharged), fuel types and piston-to-head clearance will also affect proper plug selection.
Step 1: Shell Design - The first step in choosing the proper race spark plug is determining the plug type that your cylinder head/piston will accept. Thread diameter and pitch, thread length and shell seat, as well as hex size are all factors that will define what shell type works best for your engine.
Step 2: Electrode Design - The second decision is electrode design and configuration. Is it a fine wire center or standard electrode? Projected or non-projected? Full coverage 'J-Gap' or perhaps a cut-back or angled ground wire? A good rule of thumb is to attain as much projection into the cylinder as possible. But be aware of piston clearance that could prohibit projected spark plugs from being used.
Step 3: Heat Range - The third factor in choosing a race plug is heat range. Correct heat range is critical in maintaining peak performance throughout the duration of your race or event. Switching to a colder or hotter plug will not increase horsepower, but could affect engine performance. Choosing a plug that is too hot can result in preignition or detonation. A plug that is too cold could cause an engine to stumble, misfire or foul.
The main factors to consider in selecting the proper heat range are: type of race, methanol, specific output, nitro-meth, compression ratio, nitrous oxide, horsepower, super or turbo charging and racing fuel.
and direct from NGK technical sheet that will explain it better than i ever could
Spark Plug Service
As a rule, replacement spark plugs should have the same or better service interval as the original plugs. Long-life platinum and iridium spark plugs cost a little more than standard spark plugs and are an excellent upgrade for engines that were not originally equipped with these types of plugs. So replace same with same or better - unless an engine that was originally equipped with long-life spark plugs has a plug fouling problem due to high oil consumption. In this case, it doesn't matter what type of spark plugs you install because they won't last as long as normal. If the oil burning problem cannot be fixed, switching to a slightly hotter plug may help reduce fouling.
For performance applications, switching to a slightly cooler spark plug can reduce the risk of pre-ignition and detonation at high rpm and loads.
Choosing Racing Spark Plugs
Selecting the proper spark plugs for a performance engine can mean the difference between front of the pack and not finishing the race. When using this guide, understand that race plugs are usually of a much colder heat range rating than standard automotive spark plugs. Colder spark plugs must be used in engines with increased cylinder pressures, higher temperatures and greater horsepower. Other factors such as fuel delivery (turbo, supercharged), fuel types and piston-to-head clearance will also affect proper plug selection.
Step 1: Shell Design - The first step in choosing the proper race spark plug is determining the plug type that your cylinder head/piston will accept. Thread diameter and pitch, thread length and shell seat, as well as hex size are all factors that will define what shell type works best for your engine.
Step 2: Electrode Design - The second decision is electrode design and configuration. Is it a fine wire center or standard electrode? Projected or non-projected? Full coverage 'J-Gap' or perhaps a cut-back or angled ground wire? A good rule of thumb is to attain as much projection into the cylinder as possible. But be aware of piston clearance that could prohibit projected spark plugs from being used.
Step 3: Heat Range - The third factor in choosing a race plug is heat range. Correct heat range is critical in maintaining peak performance throughout the duration of your race or event. Switching to a colder or hotter plug will not increase horsepower, but could affect engine performance. Choosing a plug that is too hot can result in preignition or detonation. A plug that is too cold could cause an engine to stumble, misfire or foul.
The main factors to consider in selecting the proper heat range are: type of race, methanol, specific output, nitro-meth, compression ratio, nitrous oxide, horsepower, super or turbo charging and racing fuel.
for normal everyday use with decent fuel helps but would get my vote but keep an eye on the colour if you regular give it some stick
there's loads of big BIG boosters here that will shout some recommendations for ya as said earlier plus there's a few Denso threads around worth checking out too
turbin
Guest
..... maybe its me not being fluent in English, since its my 2nd language and all, but Im totally not getting you bro....
LCR, boosts 20+ psi : NGK PFR6Q
yes / no ?
Just fitted the NGK platinums - pita removing all that stuff above the rocker cover as removing the coil pack and leads was a 3 min job. Car feels a bit more perky and crisp now but that might just be that the old ones have been in there possibly 60k. Only problem is i reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery and have the "SAFE" stereo problem Doh! why arent SEATs as easy as VW's!
Is there some kind of 'trick' for getting the coils off the plugs - I'm finding that they don't just unplug, seems to be some sort of locking-catch?
![[:@]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/furious.gif "Furious [:@]")
Thanks.
Hi all i did for mine was with two screwdrivers gently hold the tab for the coil pack connection and push off the connector with the other screwdriver. For the coil itself its in an akward position but i lifted mine straight up like its recommeneded in the haynes manual(mk4 golf 00-03) but they are tight.
Thanks for advice - will try this w/e, cos I suspect my plugs are dirty.
PS Hope you're enjoying Club 100 - great set-up.
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