How can you tell a new cambelt?
- Thread starter Mr Bigglesworth
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Don't trust a visual inspection. If he can't product the receipt then the obvious question is - why?
If it was done a garage they will be able to produce a replacement or at least confirm the work was carried out. I would walk away, its a buyers market and there will be others. Don't let your lust for the car blind you.
Mine was changed at 75k by JBS in Chesterfield for £315, reciept is filed away and I know I could get another if required.
Just be careful or knock him down £350 and get it done ASAP!
If it was done a garage they will be able to produce a replacement or at least confirm the work was carried out. I would walk away, its a buyers market and there will be others. Don't let your lust for the car blind you.
Mine was changed at 75k by JBS in Chesterfield for £315, reciept is filed away and I know I could get another if required.
Just be careful or knock him down £350 and get it done ASAP!
hes probably just saying its been done cuz it either is due or overdue for it.....just because it may not have been done doesnt mean its a cack car...... try knock him down a bit if you really want the car..... as there s now proof of it being done i would get it done asap just for piece of mind....
Have a bloody look at the belt, if it looks shagged and old then it prob is, if its nice and black with no wee raggy edges and still gas the writing on it, chances are its pretty new.
As said, buyers market, if you think he's talking crap about this what else is he hiding.
Knock some caash off, at least 250quid anyway!
As said, buyers market, if you think he's talking crap about this what else is he hiding.
Knock some caash off, at least 250quid anyway!
Well, the person is a dealer and he says he just uses some of his own workshops, so even if he does produce a receipt my issue is can I sufficiently trust him, so I was just wondering how easy it would be to spot a new vs old.
As the SEAT manual is a bit light on under the bonnet info, are there any better online links and pics.
As the SEAT manual is a bit light on under the bonnet info, are there any better online links and pics.
Rule of thumb is check at 60k/change every 4 years upto 120k, checking every service after 60k. My best mate worked on VAG motors for years and says that he'd never let it go past 80k cause the cost orf 100's over 1,000's isn't worth the risk.
That would put me off straight away - a dealer that hasn't got good records is not going to have good working practic's. Walk away now!
theres not really much to tell between them unless the old one is really old.... i.e 10 years and 100k old..... mine was changed at 6years/45k.... and it didnt really look old at all... then the new one went in and it looked hardly different... i mean you could tell it was new cuz it come straight out the box.... but tthe old one looked a bit dirty and dusty but that is what youd expect ..... just check for missing teeth... perishing rubber... etc etc...... but then even if it looks good it could snap if its old.... if you buy the car id advise getting it done asap
Once again, thanks for all the advice! Really helpful advice on this forum!
Car is below 80k but 6 years old, which is why I asked for either a price reduction or it doing, but now because of certain other matters I have a bit of distrust with the guy. I have a deposit down so am tied in, trying not to release too much of the details incase things need to be escalated (already contacted advice centre so been informed of my rights).
So how easy is it to get to the cambelt to take a look and some pics?
Car is below 80k but 6 years old, which is why I asked for either a price reduction or it doing, but now because of certain other matters I have a bit of distrust with the guy. I have a deposit down so am tied in, trying not to release too much of the details incase things need to be escalated (already contacted advice centre so been informed of my rights).
So how easy is it to get to the cambelt to take a look and some pics?
not normally, it might get a little rattle as the tensioner wears out, but they usually just go and then you'll here a noise. A possible to tell is if the water pump looks new, any garage that does a decent job will replace the water pump at the same time, if they don't then corners have been cut.
You like the car enough to put money down, so now it has to be about either getting your money back cause you've changed your mind, or buying it and getting the belt changed. At the end of the day it is only a few hundred pounds what ever happens either way.
You like the car enough to put money down, so now it has to be about either getting your money back cause you've changed your mind, or buying it and getting the belt changed. At the end of the day it is only a few hundred pounds what ever happens either way.
Well I'm just trying to get what was agreed in the contract of sale. I am a bit concerned that they will now just change the cambelt and not the waterpump. Are they meant to do the tensioners too at the same time.
Am I right in assuming that if they are doing the cambelt its v little extra effort to do the waterpump? Can it be changed easily afterwards or is the whole point that the cambelt needs to come off to do it? Also how much does it costs for waterpump - i can see vwspares sells them at 20.95 but is there anything else needed - maybe I'll offer to cover the cost of that part if they fit it.
At the end of the day the cambelt change is just a 'recommendation' from the manufacturer.... no garage is obliged to do it .... and as for the water pump people get them changed at the same time as it is driven by the cambelt so it just makes sense to have it done at the same time... to save on labour/time etc....... as the original water pumps are prone to fail.... but you only know that if your familiar with VAG cars... any regular garage may not know this....
like i said before... if you like the car... its got FSH...and it runs fine then have it and spend the money on having the work done....
like i said before... if you like the car... its got FSH...and it runs fine then have it and spend the money on having the work done....
no real tell tale signs.... they often just snap... then your nakerd..... sometimes get som noise from the tensioners but thats hard to tell to be honest..... january aint far away.... if its stupidly overdue a change then personally i wudnt drive it...... but if you do id advise not to put your foot down at all... this puts alotof stress on the belt with the tensioners kicking in etc
The first thing to go in the belt is when the rubber cracks. Thing is, the cracks are normally between the teeth - the only way to see them is by inverting the teeth. The belt has to be taken off to change the pump so it makes sense to do both. If you cant trust them re something else, then definately walk away.
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