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I can get 68mph out of second gear until limiter at 7200rpm on standard map, could be somthing to do with my 2nd gear refurb (new syncro etc) 2 months ago.
i wish flapper the ibiza is mine, and to be fair im not confident at all
no pressure but half the members are betting on ya
i wouldn't think that would be worth the effort... the way i see it the car would of been wind tunnel tested, so the bonnet would be an important part of the areodynamics. plus i dont think it will help when you get above 50-60mph
im thinking without the bonnet the gaps/rear engine wall will act like an air brake
hope that makes sense
haha il bare that in mind cheers fella
yeah rob sneaky halves .. aslong as you halfs on my revo ??
yeah rob sneaky halves
.. aslong as you halfs on my revo ??
i wouldn't think that would be worth the effort... the way i see it the car would of been wind tunnel tested, so the bonnet would be an important part of the areodynamics. plus i dont think it will help when you get above 50-60mph
im thinking without the bonnet the gaps/rear engine wall will act like an air brake
hope that makes sense
stop giving him good advise i wan2 win this..
i reckon he should take bonnet and front buper off 
Standard map rev limit is 6800rpm, so you're car must be remapped with an extended limiter? Custom-Code, for example, extend it to 7200rpm...
i wonder if the civic owner has posted a thread on the honda forums
would be fun to read the advise/opinions he's getting.
would be fun to read the advise/opinions he's getting.
as far as i know its not remapped doesnt feel like it either, had a few remapped lcrs leave me standing so it cant be? how could i check?
No im going to buy one when i get paid but i think im in limp mode at the moment as engine light is on, fault with 02 (lambda) sensor , where is this located?
BTW my money is on the Leon to win
The night before the event:
Disconnect the battery, and if you have the facility, perform a full throttle body realignment. This will sharpen the throttle body response, and remove some of the build up of 'gank' from the ECU which could slow the car back a bit.
Make sure you're running a clean air filter, and your plugs are in good nick (you can get a very reasonable set of Iridium plugs on t'internet from NGK for about £8 each). Plugs can make quite a difference as a fresh decently gapped set will offer much better burn.
Get some decent fuel in the tank (Optimax), preferably for a couple of tanks to allow adaptation to take place.
Remove spare wheel and any unneccessary guff from the car. Practice some starts.
Optimise your tyre pressures for 1/4 miling (don't know what these would be, but I'm sure I have read lower fronts by upto 5psi, leave rears as they are, or increase slightly).
Have no more than 1/2 tank of fuel on board on the day, fuel is weight!
Don't allow the engine to heat soak in the queue, keep turning it off if the queue is long.
Turn off ALL electrics during your run (fans / lights / radio) as this will drain power (and turn ESP/TCS OFF!)
Don't over rev the car between gear changes. Red lining isn't where all the power is on an OEM car. There is a drop off of power / torque which comes before the red line. Try to change as close to this point as you can, and make the gear changes smooth but slick, blipping the throttle if you have the clarity of mind before re-engaging each gear). It's often such a blur its difficult to do this well.
Any other tips to give the man a slight advantage?
Disconnect the battery, and if you have the facility, perform a full throttle body realignment. This will sharpen the throttle body response, and remove some of the build up of 'gank' from the ECU which could slow the car back a bit.
Make sure you're running a clean air filter, and your plugs are in good nick (you can get a very reasonable set of Iridium plugs on t'internet from NGK for about £8 each). Plugs can make quite a difference as a fresh decently gapped set will offer much better burn.
Get some decent fuel in the tank (Optimax), preferably for a couple of tanks to allow adaptation to take place.
Remove spare wheel and any unneccessary guff from the car. Practice some starts.
Optimise your tyre pressures for 1/4 miling (don't know what these would be, but I'm sure I have read lower fronts by upto 5psi, leave rears as they are, or increase slightly).
Have no more than 1/2 tank of fuel on board on the day, fuel is weight!
Don't allow the engine to heat soak in the queue, keep turning it off if the queue is long.
Turn off ALL electrics during your run (fans / lights / radio) as this will drain power (and turn ESP/TCS OFF!)
Don't over rev the car between gear changes. Red lining isn't where all the power is on an OEM car. There is a drop off of power / torque which comes before the red line. Try to change as close to this point as you can, and make the gear changes smooth but slick, blipping the throttle if you have the clarity of mind before re-engaging each gear). It's often such a blur its difficult to do this well.
Any other tips to give the man a slight advantage?
slicks / gas / octane booster come to mind
mainly just stay calm and change gears smooth no point blowing a great start by slam dunking 2nd into a spin
good point on tyre pressures you will need to test to be honest on dragster tyres are all bolted to the rims and the bigger the tyre sidewall/footprint then lower the pressure, the old MT big 'uns have been down to 6/7psi but newer smaller drag radials run about 14/16psi but have heard some FWD running higher pressures than normal?
you will see some with huge sidewalls up front to run lower pressure and get the tyres wound up but it's a fine line of trial/error and weather/track etc
all about getting as much surface area 'stuck' to the surface, bit of car park practice at both extremes and checking ya tread stripes, dare i say it but indoor multi storeys with the shiny surfaced tarmac are good as they don't grip much at all and you can test with less stress on the car (easy to spin up)
otherwise follow the above and you won't go far wrong
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If im wrong im wrong but Warren wouldnt a disconecting the battery delearn the ecu? just wondering if it would take a while before its back upto speed? id get some iridium plugs aswell but wouldnt gap them as those tips are very fragile.
Have a good day and hopefully you'll all make it back without blowing an engine
Have a good day and hopefully you'll all make it back without blowing an engine
not agreeing or disagreeing with this as i've turned mine off in queue before. i cannot remember who (may of been the wise Viking) said that you should keep the engine running. reason being when the engine is off the coolant isn't being pumped around the engine. (i understand the lcr has a turbo cooling pump when the engine is off, does it pump to engine aswell?)
makes sense as coolant would bring the temp down quicker than turning it off would it not? obviously to a certain degree, as the OP will be stop starting 10+times in a queue.
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