Alternator overcharging?

[v5er]

I've had to replace a knackered battery and blown fuse within the last 6 months. I have now been told that this is due to the alternator overcharging.

Is this likely and also a possible reason for the odd bulb going as well as diesel like idling and visible interior rattle?

Do I really need to replace the alternator or can it's settings not be altered?

If I do need to replace it which amp model goes in a 20v v5 Tolly?

 

[Dox1966]

Is the orange engine fault light on the dash?

 

[v5er]

No but sometimes on cold starts or when the car hasn't been used for a few days I get the red battery symbol on the dash. It goes after a good rev.

 

[Dox1966]

No but sometimes on cold starts or when the car hasn't been used for a few days I get the red battery symbol on the dash. It goes after a good rev.

My old 10v v5 did that for 18 months, I took the alternator off recently and the pulley free wheels easily when you turn it by hand - it also came up [alternator workshop] it worked perfectly it was just lazy and needed a rev above 2500 to scare it into operation

 

[v5er]

I'd sort it myself if I knew the step-by-step procedure and tools needed.
Alternator workshop? Not sure what you mean by that.

The thing is, the alternator is overcharging which can lead to all sorts of major electrical damage...ECU!! Are you sure yours was overcharging?

 

[Dox1966]

I'd sort it myself if I knew the step-by-step procedure and tools needed.
Alternator workshop? Not sure what you mean by that.

The thing is, the alternator is overcharging which can lead to all sorts of major electrical damage...ECU!! Are you sure yours was overcharging?

Have you measured the voltage at the battery at idle and when revving?

"Alternator workshop" appears on the dash display.

My 20V v5 Toledo has idling issues, the lights go bright and dim as the engine struggles to hold a steady idle - the engine light is on and is giving a code for cam and crank out of sync.

 

[MJ]

...the engine struggles to hold a steady idle - the engine light is on and is giving a code for cam and crank out of sync.

Thats probably a fault with one or both of the top-end speed sensors.

 

[Dox1966]

Thats probably a fault with one or both of the top-end speed sensors.

Its had one new sensor before I bought the car and a crank sensor. Ive swapped the cam sensors front to back and the same code reappeared.

Chain stretch is likely or VVT system faulty or gunked up - it idles like its running on 3 cyls

 

[MJ]

Were the sensors genuine VAG parts?

 

[Dox1966]

Were the sensors genuine VAG parts?

I don't think so, I have a complete V6 4mo head that I'm looking at to get my head around how the system works.

The previous owner was an animal and he's broken the tangs off the multiplugs so there's noting to press to lift the multiplugs latching system.

 

[MJ]

if the vr6 head has genuine sensors then try them in your tole. none of the vw, audi, seat v5s or vr6s like none genuine cam or cam reference sensors - most of the time they dont recognise them so the ecu throws up a timing correlation fault.

 

[Dox1966]

if the vr6 head has genuine sensors then try them in your tole. none of the vw, audi, seat v5s or vr6s like none genuine cam or cam reference sensors - most of the time they dont recognise them so the ecu throws up a timing correlation fault.

I'll try thr 4mo sensors in tomorrow

Also it looks like the cam actuators wiring plugs could be transposed (the wiring plugs look the same, the lower plug it proving difficult to remove), I'm trying to find which colour wiring goes where.

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=305049

Now I've done the required 15 posts I can link up my original thread

 

[MJ]

just make sure the part numbers match.

 

[Dox1966]

just make sure the part numbers match.

Fingers crossed.

Thanks

 

[v5er]

Have you measured the voltage at the battery at idle and when revving?

"Alternator workshop" appears on the dash display.

My 20V v5 Toledo has idling issues, the lights go bright and dim as the engine struggles to hold a steady idle - the engine light is on and is giving a code for cam and crank out of sync.

I'll check the battery and alternator terminals asap to see if there's a drop. The battery is barely six months old but I hope that's the problem. I have a feeling the alternator is at fault and has fried my last battery and a fuse. Useless garages didn't bother to diagnose that Let's see if they can diagnose a complaint.

Haven't had any messages on the dash display but I do get the red battery light sometimes, rough diesel like idling and intermittent dropping in headlight intensity.

 

[dvance]

Seeing as you've got a nice discussion going here with knowledgeable people I thought I'll ask a quick one

My V5 20v Tolly gives a nasty screech when starting (somehow think it correlates with a dip in the initial revs) could this be the alternator pulley or is it something to do with the secondary air injection (have the feeling the pumps or whatever fail to start for a moment when I hear that sound)? Also more often than not it needs a bit of a prod of the throttle to start up (but otherwise idles fine and runs very smooth)...

Hope my post makes sense

 

[Dox1966]

Seeing as you've got a nice discussion going here with knowledgeable people I thought I'll ask a quick one

My V5 20v Tolly gives a nasty screech when starting (somehow think it correlates with a dip in the initial revs) could this be the alternator pulley or is it something to do with the secondary air injection (have the feeling the pumps or whatever fail to start for a moment when I hear that sound)? Also more often than not it needs a bit of a prod of the throttle to start up (but otherwise idles fine and runs very smooth)...

Hope my post makes sense

Mine makes the same noise if I don't open the throttle when I start the car - It won't start without throttle at the moment.

I've not had time to look at that, it sounds like a dry bearing in the alternator - but this car has had a new one fitted recently or it could be the starter dry and contaminated with dust.

On your 20V at the side of the cylinder head nearest the battery there are 2 cylindrical items below a mass of wiring routed around the cylinder head, could you tell me the colours of the two wires that go to each of these cylinders please. ONe is higher than the other, the other lower and to the right of the first.

While you're there get someone to start the car whilst you listen for the noise its making and the direction its coming from.

 

[dvance]

Will do tonight! Thanks!

 

[Dox1966]

Will do tonight! Thanks!

With your engine running observe the auto tensioner for the aux belt (pas, alty, air con etc), it should run smoothly - no jumping up and down.

Mind your fingers when you're under there

 

[v5er]

OK just had the alternator and battery tested by ATS.
ALT: Volt 14.26v, ripple too big....
Batt: 12.6v; start capacity 82%

Does ripple shed any light on what the specific problem is?