• Hey Guest👍👎 We're looking for reviews of your local CUPRA or SEAT Dealership - it's quick and easy to do: Leave a review now
A little hint: check you actually have a battery charge light, if not the load sensing wire to the alternator is broken and causing the engine to idle higher than usual. The cure is to repair the broken wire, usually under the gearbox.

I noticed last night that my battery light on the dash isn't illuminating when the ignition's on so I'm fairly sure now that this is what mine is suffering from. Thanks for the pointer.

Here's the FAQ guide for anyone else in the thread that maybe sorting this out:

http://seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=209472

I feel a little embarrassed that I hadn't noticed it before now :(

Are there any long term effects that ignoring this problem may cause? As I'd posted previously, other than the increased revs just after starting up I've noticed no other effects as yet.
 
Bit of a thread revival here...

But I finally got around to sorting this today. It was the alternator load signal cable at fault.

The battery light is now illuminated when the ignition is on and the revs never rise once the car is started.

The wiring at the plug is ridiculously short and mine had severed one wire completely and worn through most of the wire on the other.

It's a very fiddly job to sort. Like the FAQ guide above I've now bypassed the plug.
I'd have liked to have soldered the new lengths of wire in but the short stretch from the loom to where the plug should be attached made it very difficult and I ended up using crimped connectors. I've now got bullet connectors on each end of the new lengths of wire.

I look forward to not returning to this problem again :)

Good luck if you're sorting this out!
 
I also have noticed my idle being quite high, didn't think anything of it really until I saw this thread. Went and checked if the battery light came on with ignition and it didn't. So borrowed mates ramps and had a look at that wire (thanks for the guide!). Low and behold it was that!

This should be stickied or saved somewhere me thinks!
 
The repair guide is actually from the FAQ bit so at least the repair is there.

Glad you got it sorted out, it's difficult to notice it as the only confirming symptom for my TDi (aside from the revs up at start-up) was the lack of a battery light. And I dare say that if something isn't there, you'll notice it even less!

If only Pedro put an extra inch of wire in... :)
 
i get it ni on everytime i fire the car up from cold, i let it idle for about 10-15 secs rev the engine and then it settles to about 800 :lol:
Pretty much what mine was like, though it didn't stop after 10 seconds. It stopped when the engine had warmed.

You got the battery symbol displaying on start up?
 
How high did it idle ? I could lose the battery light if it sorted out my idle shudder problem.

Do you think there are any long term effects leaving the wire disconnected.
 
Sorry I may have worded it wrong, when the wire is fixed the battery symbol shows. When it is broken (and Idle goes up) it does not.
 
Sorry I may have worded it wrong, when the wire is fixed the battery symbol shows. When it is broken (and Idle goes up) it does not.

No you did fine. :D

This has just put a crazy idea in my head to get my idle UP from 800 rpm to cure the really annoying shudder on tickover. If it just switches the battery light off i could dissconnect the wire or fit a switch. Dont want any other warning lights on the dash though. :confused:

I assume once you reconect the wire and the battery light comes on you still have to reset the codes in vag com.

just an idea really. :confused:
 
I assume once you reconect the wire and the battery light comes on you still have to reset the codes in vag com.

It was my understanding that having the battery disconnected for a suitable amount of time (circa 20mins) will clear all fault codes anyway.
They will of course reappear if that same fault occurs again once you've reconnected the battery though.

I hope someone will correct me if my interpretation is wrong :)
 
Krussel, I'm sure there's a way of increasing the idle speed with VCDS.


Mate i wish i knew a way i really do :(

Seat are totally useless and recon they can only adjust it 50 rpm, which they did but it still it shudders like a virgin bride on her wedding night.

Sorry but what is VCDS :shrug:
 
It was my understanding that having the battery disconnected for a suitable amount of time (circa 20mins) will clear all fault codes anyway.
They will of course reappear if that same fault occurs again once you've reconnected the battery though.

I hope someone will correct me if my interpretation is wrong :)


Ive heard you would prob have to re code the radio.

I dunno i think iam getting a bit desperate here tbh, its just that i heard increase tickover and a light went DING in my head. :whistle:
 
Oh Vag-com, thanks.

Ive not got a vag-com but no one seems to know if the tickover can be turned up with that. Seat said no :(

Sorry ive hijacked this thread :redface:

I know the older TDi's can, I'm not sure about the PD - I've never tried it.

On the TDi it was channel no.2 under engine... Could give it a try I suppose? :shrug:
 
From what I've read on the net, it seems the idle speed adaption can be done with any EDC15 ECU equipped TDI, which is what Mk4 Ibizas have.

Although this post on TDI Club seems to suggest idle adaption is done in 01 engine - adaption - channel 1. Then adjust the value between 124 and 132.

I'd have to go out and have a play with it to be sure.
 
From what I've read on the net, it seems the idle speed adaption can be done with any EDC15 ECU equipped TDI, which is what Mk4 Ibizas have.

Although this post on TDI Club seems to suggest idle adaption is done in 01 engine - adaption - channel 1. Then adjust the value between 124 and 132.

I'd have to go out and have a play with it to be sure.

I ve read the thread (thanks for posting) but it did not work for him :(

A simple air bleed screw would have been so much easier :blink:
 
TBH id be looking into why it is shuddering.
whilst the PD is a harsh engine the idle is usually good with only slight shuddering when the fuelling an timing are being adjusted whilst idling.
shuddering is usually caused by knackered DMF ot tired rear dogbone mount, sometimes the shuddering is actually a misifre caused by injector wiring loom dying.
has this car been only lightly driven before as could be egr system coked up