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Pyro Tim

Guest
Hi guys

Got some Eagle F1's fitted yesterday at National, as it was the best price I could find online for 4 of them, and got the tracking done at the same time, as there was some uneven wear on the old tyres.

The guy had to get a torch out to heat up my track rod ends to adjust them, and he told me that it was time to replace them, due to corrosion. I had a look, and whilst there was surface discolouration, they didn't look shot.

Steering is tight, and not noticed any wobble or anything else.

Was it a con for me to spend more money? He told me as it's gone through a heat cycle it'll be harder to move next time. I was quoted £350 to get the work done.

Cheers
Tim

Leon TDi Cupra
 
yeah, 2 x £60 for tie/track rod end, 2 x £73 for FTR4954-T.Rod.End, and £70 labour, total £336
 
He probably damaged them by heating them up, so he was trying to hide it by saying they need replacing. And even if they did need replacing there is no way they could cost £350!

Track rod ends cost about a tenner each, and it's no more than an hour each side. Absolute maximum £100.
 
funny enough, I thought I overheard them saying "you should get the sack for that" to him, just after he'd worked on my car, and before he told me the problems. But thought he'd cracked a funny out of earshot. hmmmm
 
Have a good look under the front of your car for melted brake pipes etc. It's very rare to need heat to undo track adjusters, all they normally need is 2 spanners and a little bit of force.
 
I have seen oxy-acetylene torches being used for removing the ball joint of the track rod end from the hub, before removing the end.
Its wrong and causes damage 99% of the time.

As said above, check for other damage, the CV joint is in VERY close proximity to the rod end, so ensure there are no burn marks on that.
The physical ball joint rubber should not be melted either.

Second opinion, lots of photos and then go back to National.
 
I was told by national my brake disks were knackered and would definately not pass MOT, and it was 220 quid, 10 months later MOT was fine and garage said they've got at least another 18 months/20,000 miles on them, and it's only £150 everywhere else fitted, I don't trust them as far as I could through them
 
On my last car it needed heat to adjust them, came to a point they wouldn't do it anymore unless you guaranteed them they would be free enough to adjust.
But these are a lot lower and mine never needed heat.
 
I have seen oxy-acetylene torches being used for removing the ball joint of the track rod end from the hub, before removing the end.
Its wrong and causes damage 99% of the time.

As said above, check for other damage, the CV joint is in VERY close proximity to the rod end, so ensure there are no burn marks on that.
The physical ball joint rubber should not be melted either.

Second opinion, lots of photos and then go back to National.

Thanks mate, any recommendations? Seems you are Hants/Dorset, and I am Dorset/Hants, working in Calmore/Totton. I have an amazing ability of chosing cowboys.
 
Cheers Chris, anything more Soton way? Would rather get it done when at work