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Bargain race battery £35.99
- Thread starter lucifer666
- Start date
Cant atm im about 250miles away from her in work. I got some motorbike connectors, cut off my car battery connectors, put the motorbike connectors on the end and then used the screw and blot part that came with the battery to attatch, Since my battery is in the front the cable wasnt long enough so i had to extend it.
Bike connectors are a loop, halfords sell for £5.
The problem I had was trying to get the oem cover with all the wires on to fit over the battery. I just took the bottom bit of plastic off.
Bike connectors are a loop, halfords sell for £5.
The problem I had was trying to get the oem cover with all the wires on to fit over the battery. I just took the bottom bit of plastic off.
if this lasts up a year i dont think i'll be getting another car battery. I still have my old battery in the boot just incase
I would wait till after the weekend because im finalising my install.
You have to put the acid in, its how they keep them cheap with a long shelf life and can ship them without any probems.
Firstly i used motorbike connectors, to attatch to the battery, then cut off the oem connectors and fitted like that, you use the nuts and the rectangle bolt that came with the battery. I had to extend one cable because it was too short so i got a full motorbike battery lead which already has connectors on it.
My battery is at the front so im trying to fabricate a bracket to mount it, if your battery is in the boot it will be soooooooooooooo much easyer.
I used a mini ratchet strap to begin with just to keep in place because i didnt want to get rid of the battery bracket because its a good platform to attatch other mods.
I was thinking along the lines of an oil catch can and also a water resovoir for intercoler sprayng.
The two and the battery would fit in the oem bracket nicely.
I have decided now that because you can install the intercooler spray somewhere else, like ibizaracebrake which is actually better because it keeps the water colder, I am going to slice off a section of that platform and mount the battery further to the right. Is touching the itg intake at the moment and im not happy.
After messing around in the work shop I came up with the perfect securing solution that adds virtually no weight, I cut 4small slits in the plastic battery bracket which is very durable. I then used 2very thick strong zipties, they are about 2-3mm thick and just over a centimeter wide, we used them in afghan to handcuff taliban, so they are good.
You have to put the acid in, its how they keep them cheap with a long shelf life and can ship them without any probems.
Firstly i used motorbike connectors, to attatch to the battery, then cut off the oem connectors and fitted like that, you use the nuts and the rectangle bolt that came with the battery. I had to extend one cable because it was too short so i got a full motorbike battery lead which already has connectors on it.
My battery is at the front so im trying to fabricate a bracket to mount it, if your battery is in the boot it will be soooooooooooooo much easyer.
I used a mini ratchet strap to begin with just to keep in place because i didnt want to get rid of the battery bracket because its a good platform to attatch other mods.
I was thinking along the lines of an oil catch can and also a water resovoir for intercoler sprayng.
The two and the battery would fit in the oem bracket nicely.
I have decided now that because you can install the intercooler spray somewhere else, like ibizaracebrake which is actually better because it keeps the water colder, I am going to slice off a section of that platform and mount the battery further to the right. Is touching the itg intake at the moment and im not happy.
After messing around in the work shop I came up with the perfect securing solution that adds virtually no weight, I cut 4small slits in the plastic battery bracket which is very durable. I then used 2very thick strong zipties, they are about 2-3mm thick and just over a centimeter wide, we used them in afghan to handcuff taliban, so they are good.
Hopefully it will be easier, but im just thinking (not looked yet) the large standard battery is/could be holding the spare wheel up/inplace...
Will have to have a gander.
I've picked some connectors up but not sure if they are the right size ect. Too much choice in halfrauds
You cant really have water resivour that high up unless you get valves to stop water dripping down/out of the pipework when you dont want it to. Usually has to be lower than the spray nozzles. I've not done my Intercooler spray yet though.
Will have to have a gander.
I've picked some connectors up but not sure if they are the right size ect. Too much choice in halfrauds
You cant really have water resivour that high up unless you get valves to stop water dripping down/out of the pipework when you dont want it to. Usually has to be lower than the spray nozzles. I've not done my Intercooler spray yet though.
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No it doesn't
There is a metal frame over the battery held by 4 bolts that has the wheel clamp screw in the top of it.
It was going to be a resovoir to fill a smaller one so i could keep more water, was thinking along the lines of a intake temperature controlled spray so it would automatically spray until intake temps were at a wanted level, simialar to the boost controlled wmi system. I have decided its not needed now though, too compicated.
As long as your nut fits the hole it dosent matter, you need a big one though so you can push the oem wire through
How's the battery going?
Would it be worth it to go up to a YTX-16BS?
Or use a sealed version i.e. Deka AGM ETX14-BS
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150871371981?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Would it be worth it to go up to a YTX-16BS?
Or use a sealed version i.e. Deka AGM ETX14-BS
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150871371981?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Why not use square to post battery terminal adapters? Will save alot of hassle.
http://www.justcarbatteries.co.uk/index.php/specialist-batteries/battery-post-adapter.html
http://www.justcarbatteries.co.uk/index.php/specialist-batteries/battery-post-adapter.html
Right heres a few pics of the install of this battery up front.
You will need:
1. 2 motorbike battery leads, as thick as possible, think these are 10mm
2. Shrink wrap/blick insulation tape
3. Hacksaw, drill, screwdriver, socket set
This is optional but i wanted to make space. Cut the battery tray so its 2/3 of size. Gives room for mounting battery and also space as a platform to fit something else if needed. I went for an isolator switch as the battery will be dead after 8 days of non starting unless its isolated and will then last for weeks. Not a problem for most people since i would imagine they use their car at least once a week, if i go away with the army on exercise, it could be anywhere from 2 -6 weeks.
I then re installed the tray, drilled slots for the heavy duty zipties, mounted the battery as far right as it could go, tied it down.
I then cut off the oem terminal on the + side and used the motorbike lead to connect it to the battery. It screws down on the race battery terminal one side and i used shrink wrap to join the end of the oem battery lead to the other side.
The - side, i unscrewed where the oem lead is grounded to the chassis and screwed in the motorbike lead instead, then the other side was screwed into thebattery.
If you look at the oem "wire box" is so to speak, i have removed the bit of plastic underneath which fitted around the orignial batter. It helps it to fit, just prize it off with a screwdriver.
If you look at the above pic, the green mount is for a isolator switch which hasnt been done yet, I will cut the negative terminal in the middle and attatch to the switch. At the moment i have them just connected with insulation wrap so i can easily disconnect them when required.
Pick of where the battery is grounded, i have taken the nut off but you can still see it
Apologies for poor pics, were taken with my phone
You will need:
1. 2 motorbike battery leads, as thick as possible, think these are 10mm
2. Shrink wrap/blick insulation tape
3. Hacksaw, drill, screwdriver, socket set
This is optional but i wanted to make space. Cut the battery tray so its 2/3 of size. Gives room for mounting battery and also space as a platform to fit something else if needed. I went for an isolator switch as the battery will be dead after 8 days of non starting unless its isolated and will then last for weeks. Not a problem for most people since i would imagine they use their car at least once a week, if i go away with the army on exercise, it could be anywhere from 2 -6 weeks.
I then re installed the tray, drilled slots for the heavy duty zipties, mounted the battery as far right as it could go, tied it down.
I then cut off the oem terminal on the + side and used the motorbike lead to connect it to the battery. It screws down on the race battery terminal one side and i used shrink wrap to join the end of the oem battery lead to the other side.
The - side, i unscrewed where the oem lead is grounded to the chassis and screwed in the motorbike lead instead, then the other side was screwed into thebattery.
If you look at the oem "wire box" is so to speak, i have removed the bit of plastic underneath which fitted around the orignial batter. It helps it to fit, just prize it off with a screwdriver.
If you look at the above pic, the green mount is for a isolator switch which hasnt been done yet, I will cut the negative terminal in the middle and attatch to the switch. At the moment i have them just connected with insulation wrap so i can easily disconnect them when required.
Pick of where the battery is grounded, i have taken the nut off but you can still see it
Apologies for poor pics, were taken with my phone
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The battery leads I used already had connectors on. I bought 2 foot long bike battery cables. They are thinner than the standard ones but are fine with this battery.for you I would measure the thickness of your cable and Google a connector that is that size and maybe use a washer if the hole is too big
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You could use Automotive terminals for Odyssey batteries
http://www.odysseybatteriesonline.c...rs&modelcode=&partno=&partcode=DA_20_BA_20_50
I've ordered a set to use on a Motobatt battery. saves the hassle of chopping the wires and/or fitting new leads.
http://www.odysseybatteriesonline.c...rs&modelcode=&partno=&partcode=DA_20_BA_20_50
I've ordered a set to use on a Motobatt battery. saves the hassle of chopping the wires and/or fitting new leads.
Didn't even know products like this existed. Assuming the thread bit fits the bike battery hole and then you attatch the oem terminals to it. Good shout.
Should do, the Motobatt I bought has M6 holes - I believe most motorcycle batteries have M6 threads - http://motobatt.com/
In fact the Motobatt seems rather indestructible! according to this test:
http://www.intruderalert.com/cafe/index.cfm?page=topic&topicID=157926
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