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iammooks

Active Member
Nov 27, 2018
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Thought this one deserved its own thread, because after years of faffing about, I've only gone and done it. You all know how long I've been putting it off.

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I'm going to do a write up once the car is back together. There's barely anything online for doing this on the ARL/PD150 engine, and I understand why now, as it's a pig - one of the hardest and most draining jobs I've ever done on the car.

Worst thing is, it's not nearly as dirty as I thought it would be, so no idea why my car is so asthmatic...


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So much work indeed but at least you will forever remembered like the ONE which actually did it AND wrote a DIY about it.

If I'd known how hard it was beforehand... I'd probably have done it anyway, as I'm an idiot who likes to make life hard for himself. The way I see it, every other job is a walk in the park after this one - and this is from someone who changed their rear beam bushes on the driveway.

In the end, I got a lot of sludge and at least two golf ball sized loads of carbon out, so not a wasted effort. From the look of the gaskets, there's been something blowing through too, on the top where it connects to the EGR and around the ports, so at least I can make sure things are properly tight with a new gasket, new bolts etc. Beautiful.


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[mention]BadBoy03 [/mention] - did you reply to this one about the fuel pump? Reckon it's the next most likely thing, so I'll be looking at that next - it really made a lot of sense.

The problem I get is normally in first or second gear when I'm giving it some revs - normally from cold, but it does seem to affect first a lot of the time. If the fuel pump isn't delivering, it explains the stalling and the smoke I get, and why it only affects those gears, where I'm revving harder.

Easier to access than the intake as well... Good shout.


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Years ago I cleaned the manifold on my Leon Cupra TDI with harsh alloy wheel acid. Left it soaking for too long, it turned to metallic mush

Caustic soda did an amazing job dissolving an old style quill stem I had stuck in a bike frame - just a couple of slivers left.

I'm amazed we're allowed some of those sorts of things. Does make me ask why I can't get a paint stripper that works though...


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For me, the problem bolts are usually the one at the bottom of the EGR/ASV (because it's a nightmare to get to), and the three holding the EGR cooler onto the manifold (because the easy way to get the manifold out is to detach it from the cooler... until one or more of the bolts round out and you end up having to undo everything else to then wrestle the mess out)
 
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For me, the problem bolts are usually the one at the bottom of the EGR/ASV (because it's a nightmare to get to), and the three holding the EGR cooler onto the manifold (because the easy way to get the manifold out is to detach it from the cooler... until one or more of the bolts round out and you end up having to undo everything else to then wrestle the mess out)

You're in good company with those ones, because I feel exactly the same. The one on the right under the EGR valve kills me every time. Your hand is twisted underneath, and it's a mission just to get your hands under before you've even tried to get the allen key in the head and keep it there while you turn it. Even though I've got a 1/4" ratchet, it just doesn't work in that space, so I end up using a standard allen key, which I can only turn something like an eighth of a turn before I've got to take it out to get another eighth of a turn. That's if I don't drop it into the engine bay. Or the bolt, when it finally comes out. With your hands like that, your arm is constantly dragging on the hose clamps for the coolant pipes and they are sharp as you like, and will bruise you even if you're wearing sleeves - it's like they deliberately decided to put them exactly where they did.

Oh, and it's not like you can do it all in one go, because your hands get so tired doing all that nonsense, so you've got to keep taking them out to give them a rest before you start getting cramp, and then go through that whole process again. It took me ages. An eighth of a turn at a time...

The top bolt on the cooler was really easy. Thought the rest would be like that. The one on the driver's side I couldn't get off without taking the coolant hose off, which I was hoping not to do, and it felt stiff in the same place every turn, so thought it might snap. The one on the passenger side is the reason I've got bruised ribs from lying on the engine to cut the head off. I couldn't get anything onto it that would give me enough leverage to turn it out, so tried a few things, like the two spanners thing, and bought some long allen sockets, but it was never coming out. Had to unplug that coolant hose too so I didn't saw through it.

Even with that out, then you have to do the six neat cycled bolts that go in the engine, and if you snap any of those, what the hell are you going to do? Cracked all six individually before taking them out and can't begin to describe the relief when they all came out.

You can bet I'm using all new bolts and have re-tapped as many threads as I can get to. I don't imagine a bit of copper slip is going to do it any harm either.


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Yup, my experience exactly, just so damn awkward. And those f#*king clips and clamps!

Will say that I've never had an issue with the manifold to head bolts, but then if I feel them go stiff (ooh err missus) then I just work them back and forth a bit till they ease up
 
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Yup, my experience exactly, just so damn awkward. And those f#*king clips and clamps!

Will say that I've never had an issue with the manifold to head bolts, but then if I feel them go stiff (ooh err missus) then I just work them back and forth a bit till they ease up

I've been getting the impression from your other posts that you've done this more than once. If that's the case, what the **** is wrong with you?

Definitely putting copper slip on the cooler bolts, but have you got an opinion on the ones that go in the engine? So much conflicting information that in the end, it sounds like I can do either and it'll be fine.

Google tells me the inlet to engine bolts are 25Nm, which sounds about right. I think I can fit my 3/8 torque wrench in there, but if I can't, 'good and tight' seems to apply here.


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Glad I decided to check how well the bolt holes line up on the cooler now I had to drill a new thread and it was slightly off centre. Had to drill an extra couple of mm on each hole so I can get all three bolts in.

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Those bolts on the exhaust side are absolutely welded stuck. No way is an allen socket getting that out. It's not broken, so I'm not touching them. Really wish the voice in my head would shut up about doing it though.


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Lots wrong with me, but in this case I've had practice on multiple engines (I have 3 and have stripped a few in the field so to speak). Worst one was a Ford Galaxy, really are going in blind with them, took a looong time to get it off, almost worth taking the engine out instead.

Anyway, yeah, I find the cooler mount holes benefit from a little fettling to make life easier.

Torque? I just go with GNT with no lube, not a big fan of copper grease.

And as for your cooler to manifold bolts, unless it's blowing (which I doubt) I'd leave them be. But if you really want to be brave, only the bolt itself is rusted, the cooler etc being stainless. Get as much crust off as you can, hit it with lots of WD40 (I use the Specialist version) and then get some grips on it and take your time.

Might research some stainless bolts for the next time I do it, possibly with thread sealer 🤔
 
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