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iammooks

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Nov 27, 2018
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Thought this one deserved its own thread, because after years of faffing about, I've only gone and done it. You all know how long I've been putting it off.

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I'm going to do a write up once the car is back together. There's barely anything online for doing this on the ARL/PD150 engine, and I understand why now, as it's a pig - one of the hardest and most draining jobs I've ever done on the car.

Worst thing is, it's not nearly as dirty as I thought it would be, so no idea why my car is so asthmatic...


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So much work indeed but at least you will forever remembered like the ONE which actually did it AND wrote a DIY about it.

If I'd known how hard it was beforehand... I'd probably have done it anyway, as I'm an idiot who likes to make life hard for himself. The way I see it, every other job is a walk in the park after this one - and this is from someone who changed their rear beam bushes on the driveway.

In the end, I got a lot of sludge and at least two golf ball sized loads of carbon out, so not a wasted effort. From the look of the gaskets, there's been something blowing through too, on the top where it connects to the EGR and around the ports, so at least I can make sure things are properly tight with a new gasket, new bolts etc. Beautiful.


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[mention]BadBoy03 [/mention] - did you reply to this one about the fuel pump? Reckon it's the next most likely thing, so I'll be looking at that next - it really made a lot of sense.

The problem I get is normally in first or second gear when I'm giving it some revs - normally from cold, but it does seem to affect first a lot of the time. If the fuel pump isn't delivering, it explains the stalling and the smoke I get, and why it only affects those gears, where I'm revving harder.

Easier to access than the intake as well... Good shout.


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Years ago I cleaned the manifold on my Leon Cupra TDI with harsh alloy wheel acid. Left it soaking for too long, it turned to metallic mush

Caustic soda did an amazing job dissolving an old style quill stem I had stuck in a bike frame - just a couple of slivers left.

I'm amazed we're allowed some of those sorts of things. Does make me ask why I can't get a paint stripper that works though...


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For me, the problem bolts are usually the one at the bottom of the EGR/ASV (because it's a nightmare to get to), and the three holding the EGR cooler onto the manifold (because the easy way to get the manifold out is to detach it from the cooler... until one or more of the bolts round out and you end up having to undo everything else to then wrestle the mess out)
 
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For me, the problem bolts are usually the one at the bottom of the EGR/ASV (because it's a nightmare to get to), and the three holding the EGR cooler onto the manifold (because the easy way to get the manifold out is to detach it from the cooler... until one or more of the bolts round out and you end up having to undo everything else to then wrestle the mess out)

You're in good company with those ones, because I feel exactly the same. The one on the right under the EGR valve kills me every time. Your hand is twisted underneath, and it's a mission just to get your hands under before you've even tried to get the allen key in the head and keep it there while you turn it. Even though I've got a 1/4" ratchet, it just doesn't work in that space, so I end up using a standard allen key, which I can only turn something like an eighth of a turn before I've got to take it out to get another eighth of a turn. That's if I don't drop it into the engine bay. Or the bolt, when it finally comes out. With your hands like that, your arm is constantly dragging on the hose clamps for the coolant pipes and they are sharp as you like, and will bruise you even if you're wearing sleeves - it's like they deliberately decided to put them exactly where they did.

Oh, and it's not like you can do it all in one go, because your hands get so tired doing all that nonsense, so you've got to keep taking them out to give them a rest before you start getting cramp, and then go through that whole process again. It took me ages. An eighth of a turn at a time...

The top bolt on the cooler was really easy. Thought the rest would be like that. The one on the driver's side I couldn't get off without taking the coolant hose off, which I was hoping not to do, and it felt stiff in the same place every turn, so thought it might snap. The one on the passenger side is the reason I've got bruised ribs from lying on the engine to cut the head off. I couldn't get anything onto it that would give me enough leverage to turn it out, so tried a few things, like the two spanners thing, and bought some long allen sockets, but it was never coming out. Had to unplug that coolant hose too so I didn't saw through it.

Even with that out, then you have to do the six heat cycled bolts that go in the engine, and if you snap any of those, what the hell are you going to do? Cracked all six individually before taking them out and can't begin to describe the relief when they all came out.

You can bet I'm using all new bolts and have re-tapped as many threads as I can get to. I don't imagine a bit of copper slip is going to do it any harm either.


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Yup, my experience exactly, just so damn awkward. And those f#*king clips and clamps!

Will say that I've never had an issue with the manifold to head bolts, but then if I feel them go stiff (ooh err missus) then I just work them back and forth a bit till they ease up
 
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Yup, my experience exactly, just so damn awkward. And those f#*king clips and clamps!

Will say that I've never had an issue with the manifold to head bolts, but then if I feel them go stiff (ooh err missus) then I just work them back and forth a bit till they ease up

I've been getting the impression from your other posts that you've done this more than once. If that's the case, what the **** is wrong with you?

Definitely putting copper slip on the cooler bolts, but have you got an opinion on the ones that go in the engine? So much conflicting information that in the end, it sounds like I can do either and it'll be fine.

Google tells me the inlet to engine bolts are 25Nm, which sounds about right. I think I can fit my 3/8 torque wrench in there, but if I can't, 'good and tight' seems to apply here.


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Glad I decided to check how well the bolt holes line up on the cooler now I had to drill a new thread and it was slightly off centre. Had to drill an extra couple of mm on each hole so I can get all three bolts in.

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Those bolts on the exhaust side are absolutely welded stuck. No way is an allen socket getting that out. It's not broken, so I'm not touching them. Really wish the voice in my head would shut up about doing it though.


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Lots wrong with me, but in this case I've had practice on multiple engines (I have 3 and have stripped a few in the field so to speak). Worst one was a Ford Galaxy, really are going in blind with them, took a looong time to get it off, almost worth taking the engine out instead.

Anyway, yeah, I find the cooler mount holes benefit from a little fettling to make life easier.

Torque? I just go with GNT with no lube, not a big fan of copper grease.

And as for your cooler to manifold bolts, unless it's blowing (which I doubt) I'd leave them be. But if you really want to be brave, only the bolt itself is rusted, the cooler etc being stainless. Get as much crust off as you can, hit it with lots of WD40 (I use the Specialist version) and then get some grips on it and take your time.

Might research some stainless bolts for the next time I do it, possibly with thread sealer 🤔
 
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Lots wrong with me, but in this case I've had practice on multiple engines (I have 3 and have stripped a few in the field so to speak). Worst one was a Ford Galaxy, really are going in blind with them, took a looong time to get it off, almost worth taking the engine out instead.

Anyway, yeah, I find the cooler mount holes benefit from a little fettling to make life easier.

Torque? I just go with GNT with no lube, not a big fan of copper grease.

And as for your cooler to manifold bolts, unless it's blowing (which I doubt) I'd leave them be. But if you really want to be brave, only the bolt itself is rusted, the cooler etc being stainless. Get as much crust off as you can, hit it with lots of WD40 (I use the Specialist version) and then get some grips on it and take your time.

Might research some stainless bolts for the next time I do it, possibly with thread sealer 🤔
When I've replaced bolts, I've tended to go for A2 stainless, as they've resisted rust better than any of the other ones and I've still been able to get them out later. That's what I'll be using as a replacement for the cooler bolts, but for the inlet to engine bolts I'm using the genuine VW ones I got from Darkside - there are some bolts I'm just not going to take a risk on. Any stretch bolts etc, and I'm going genuine.

I've been using copper grease since someone recommended it to me when I was a kid riding mountain bikes - hard habit to break after putting it on bolts for about thirty years. I only ran out of the tube I got when I was sixteen a couple of years ago - got a big tub of the stuff that'll do me until I shuffle off.

One set of bolts have arrived now for one of those 'while you're in there' jobs I've been doing while cleaning the manifold and the EGR, so I'm getting closer to putting it all back together, which is going to be fun if I turn the engine over and I've not tightened something enough and have to take everything off again.

As it's raining today, wondering if there's any sense in doing the EGR cooler. I'd kind of put it off, as I didn't really know how, but as I've got some time... No point taking everything apart and not try cleaning that too...
 
Lots wrong with me, but in this case I've had practice on multiple engines (I have 3 and have stripped a few in the field so to speak). Worst one was a Ford Galaxy, really are going in blind with them, took a looong time to get it off, almost worth taking the engine out instead.

Anyway, yeah, I find the cooler mount holes benefit from a little fettling to make life easier.

Torque? I just go with GNT with no lube, not a big fan of copper grease.

And as for your cooler to manifold bolts, unless it's blowing (which I doubt) I'd leave them be. But if you really want to be brave, only the bolt itself is rusted, the cooler etc being stainless. Get as much crust off as you can, hit it with lots of WD40 (I use the Specialist version) and then get some grips on it and take your time.

Might research some stainless bolts for the next time I do it, possibly with thread sealer 🤔
forget WD40 its not what it is as theirs better product's theses days, use this and refit with copper grease https://www.actioncan.com/product/rp-90/
 
[mention]BadBoy03 [/mention] - did you reply to this one about the fuel pump? Reckon it's the next most likely thing, so I'll be looking at that next - it really made a lot of sense.

The problem I get is normally in first or second gear when I'm giving it some revs - normally from cold, but it does seem to affect first a lot of the time. If the fuel pump isn't delivering, it explains the stalling and the smoke I get, and why it only affects those gears, where I'm revving harder.

Easier to access than the intake as well... Good shout.


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I did mention the fuel pump, on my Ibiza TDI. Removed the old, unknown brand & replaced with a Bosch. Took about 5-10mins tops, just fill the pump with diesel first, pumping out air, then put in place & then follow the correct sequence with car ignition, about 5 times to remove air. (This was for my Mk5 Ibiza though.)
Air filter is worth replacing if not done for a while too.
 
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Going to torture myself by reliving this, otherwise I'll forget some key detail...

So you want to clean your inlet/intake manifold? Are you sure? Your car is more than twenty years old and those bolts are pretty rotten by now, along with decades of heat cycling. It sucks. It really sucks. It's filthy, it's physical and almost all of the bolts and fixings are in awkward places and you can't see most of them. Some will be rusted, some will snap. Then you have no choice but to get them out. Or you can scrap the car pretty much.

But then, you're looking at a thread about cleaning your mk1's manifold in 2026, so it looks like you're doing it.

You will need 5 and 6mm alarm keys. 3/8 socket standard and long, 1/4 socket, those alien keys you get on a chainring, all the usual extensions. I used them all. I can understand why you might want to use ball-ended ones, but if the head is going to round out, it was probably going to round out anyway. Torx bits. Those hose clamp grips on a cable. You won't be able to do it without them. They often break after a few uses. It's hard enough getting the TIP back on the turbo already, don't make it harder by trying to use vice grips. Mr Muscle oven cleaner and carb cleaner. New gaskets and o-rings. I'll probably include part numbers in another post. Coolant, or you can drain it if it's recent enough to not need fresh stuff. Penetrating lube. The smell gives me PTSD.

Jack up your car and undo most of the undertray screws so it can hang down. You will drop something, no matter how many precautions you take. I know it's effort, but it's worth it.

Take off your boost pipe. The one that connects to the EGR. Use a flat head screwdriver to lever off the horseshoe clips at either end. Look at your EGR valve. How dirty is it? Is it clogged with carbon? If it's not that bad, really think about just stopping here.

You can see two M6 bolts attaching the top of the EGR valve to the intake manifold. Use a 5mm allen to undo those. Take off the two vacuum hoses to the EGR. You can't get the lower EGR bolt out cleanly while the left bolt of the cooler to EGR pipe is still in. 6mm allen. A bolt you can't see. You'll need put your hand in between the EGR and the brake master cylinder. I used a 1/4 ratchet on this one.

Good idea to put something like a plastic bag under here to catch any tools or bolts you drop.

Next up you'll need to take out the other cooler pipe bolt under the EGR. Unless you have a ratchet that'll work in a tight space or is small enough to fit in the space, you'll need to use a normal allen key and loosen it an 1/8 of a turn at a time. Remember you're doing this while your hand is twisted underneath and with the coolant line hose clips scratching your arms. Once those bolts are out, you'll be able to get access to the third EGR to intake bolt. Back to the 5mm allen for this one, and the EGR should lift out Then the EGR cooler bolts. Two 6mm allen bolts that are actually pretty easy to get at.

At either end of this pipe there are gaskets, so keep that in mind when you take the pipe out. A metal one to the cooler and a kind of semi-organic one under the EGR that normally gets stuck under it, so prioritise getting to the metal one and stopping it from dropping into the engine bay. With the pipe out and the EGR out, you're going to need to make a bit of space to get at the EGR cooler bolts.

Seems like a good opportunity to take a break...
 
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Part two...

To get your TIP out, you'll need 10mm sockets and the hose clamp tool.

Use the 10mm socket on the bolt holding the TIP to the top of the intake manifold, then the one on the left hand side under the intake side of the manifold. When you're doing this one, get a feel for the area just below, as that's where you'll be disconnecting the hose clamp where the TIP goes into the turbo. Before that though, use the hose clamp tool to undo the clamp on the concertina hose near the airbox. I took them both off to be able to take the hose off entirely. Then use the hose clamp tool on the crankcase ventilation pipe and pop it off. The other end clips on, and it's good to remove it to make it easier to get the TIP out and back in again.

With everything free, use the hose clamp tool on the clamp all the way down at the turbo, move the open clamp towards the engine and then let off the clamp, leaving the clips in a position you can get the tool on again later without too much trouble. Pull the bottom of the TIP out. It should come out easily - it's just a plastic pipe in a rubber (I think?) connector.

You'll have loads more space now to get the EGR cooler out. You'll probably need it.

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Yes, there are photos too. Some, anyway. Like, here's the bolt that you can't see in the place I can't even get hands in, let alone a camera.

That reminds me - get one of those endoscopes from eBay you can plug into your phone - so useful to check locations and condition of the bolts you can't see.

But yeah - loads of room now to get at the three M6 (5mm allen) bolts behind the intake manifold. One on the top, which gave me a false sense of security because it came out so easily. The one I did next was the one (as you're looking down on it) on the left. It's underneath a coolant line that made it just too tight to get anything in the head, so I took it off in the end. This bolt was harder to get out. There was a tight spot in every turn that made me worried it was going to snap, but it was OK in the end.

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The bolt is under this. The coolant hose is just thick enough that it means you can't get an allen on it cleanly with the hose on.

*** SPECIAL BONUS ROUND ***

Should you take out the coolant lines both to get on the bolt head and to take the cooler out for cleaning?

I say a resounding 'yes'. While the various (non-ARL mostly) guides say you don't have to - which is true - and I set out with that intention, that bolt is difficult to get to and if you need to drill anything out, the cooler might be ever so slightly out of line as a result and it'll need drilling More on that later.

In any case, when you see how the EGR cooler works, you'll understand why it's probably clogged. It's just thin tubes in a coolant jacket that hot exhaust gas gets diverted through. What could possibly go wrong? Mine was full of crap though, and having done this, my engine genuinely feels usable again - clean it all while you're in there. Clean it all. Don't cut corners - you're never going to want to do this again. I drained the coolant into the pan I use for my oil changes. It's a good chance to change the coolant too.

*** END ***

Of all the three, the third is the hardest. In an ideal world, you'd get a 6mm allen and undo the exhaust to EGR cooler bolts. Mine are just a mound of rusty crap and will never be coming out. If I could have got those out, I reckon you'll find this part of the job much easier - then all you have to do is take off the 13mm nuts that connect to the exhaust manifold and you've got better access.

If you can do that, a winner is you.

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I am not a winner.

I had to try to get at the bolt with the exhaust flex/concertina pipe in the way, and I think the best way in is from underneath. Maybe a long ball end allen might do the job here, as it's not so much at an angle as to possibly round it out. I used pretty much everything until I ordered long non-ball ended allen sockets, and when they arrived, it took about a minute to realise that thing was never coming out and was only rounding out.

I used one of these to saw the head off:

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I ended up taking the airbox out too for access, but it took ages to make sure I wasn't sawing something I shouldn't be. In a space that's hard to access, sawing off a bolt head I can't see...

Then all you need to get the cooler out now is the two 13mm nuts on the exhaust manifold. I thought these would be horrible, as they looked really bad, but they were super easy. Watch out for the gasket. It's a metal one and shouldn't come off as it sits on the manifold studs, but now you know it's there.

If you haven't already, take off the coolant hose on the right and the coolant return on the left.

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Now it's just the six 6mm head allen bolts that hold the intake manifold to the engine and you're done. I could easily get a 3/8 standard allen on them with a stubby extension and held the socket in place while I turned the ratchet. I cracked them all off individually first before undoing then fully - and they do crack. It was the bit of the job I was worried most about, but it was actually really straightforward.

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Six years of procrastination summed up in six bolts.

Now to clean it all...


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Right... Let's do some cleaning...

If you've ever done your EGR before this, you know it's a filthy job. There will be clothes and maybe even tools that you're going to be throwing out after this, because some of this stuff is never coming out in the wash. Wear old clothes, latex or heavy duty gloves and maybe get yourself some kind of container to do this in so you don't end up with sticky carbon everywhere.

In all honesty, how you do this is up to you - some people soak everything in petrol, some people use a blowtorch and compressed air to burn the **** out of it all - but I don't live on my own and as fun or easy that might be, I'm not interested in explaining why there's carbon splattered all over the wall or why I managed to burn the house down. I stuck with Mr Muscle oven cleaner. Some people will tell you you're risking melting your manifold, but I've not had any problems like that - Mr Muscle is my go-to for cleaning anything like this, from the EGR to my turbo, the EGR cooler and the manifold - and it's relatively cheap. I did get some EGR and carbon cleaner - probably Holt's or something - but that was more to use on a rag for final wiping things down before reinstallation.

Best thing to do first is scrape as much crap off as you can to begin with. I've found if you don't do this, Mr Muscle just sits on the surface and isn't as effective. You can use a screwdriver, and I have a Blue Spot plastic trim remover which is the same width as the port opening, which I could use to hook and scrape bits out. I also got a length of gardening wire that I looped round and attached to the drill, which I then used to scrape out bits I couldn't really get to otherwise. Then you spray the Mr Muscle in and leave it for about half an hour at a time, before rinsing it out and then doing the same again. To really get the Mr Muscle in there, I used the spray from a WD40 can with the long nozzle on it.

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At the same time as doing that, I did the same on the EGR and the cooler. The EGR is fairly straightforward as you can see everything you're doing, just take the gaskets and o-rings off, but the cooler takes a bit more effort - especially if you haven't been able to get the exhaust connector off. Initially, I wasn't going to do the cooler, but I ran the gardening wire down the tubes and when I turned it upside down, a load of carbon pieces and dust came out. This is where the WD40 spray nozzle really helps, as you can get it right down in the holes, rather than just spraying it and hoping it's doing the job. Again, leave it for half an hour and rinse it out. After, I packed it with paper towels so any remaining water could drain out. If you've got compressed air, use that.

Before putting anything back in, I lined up the EGR cooler with the manifold. Even though I'd drilled my stuck bolt out and re-tapped the thread, I wanted to make sure it still lined up - which it didn't. That meant getting the drill out to enlarge the cooler to manifold bolt holes. I started out just doing the one for the bolt I cut the head off, but drilling the others gives you more room for adjustment.

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If your new bolts don't come with washers (the original ones have washers that don't come off), make sure you have washers and they don't pass through the bigger holes you've drilled.

I also cleaned the mating surfaces to reduce the chances of air leaks - and don't forget to clean around the ports on the engine too. My ports were fine - nothing clogging them - but some people use a vacuum cleaner to suck carbon out of the engine. I just used the EGR and carbon cleaner, being careful not to push anything into the engine. I used plastic razor blades to scrape old residue off mating surfaces and then used metal polish to make sure everything was super clean. Replace gaskets and o-rings as needed.

So now you're pretty much ready for it to go back together. I could be an arse and say 'reassembly is the reverse of disassembly', but it's not really like that, so more in another post...


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