Fried Fan Fuse

I had noticed that my air con was a bit hot and cold the past few days and then at the end of my hour long commute in stop start traffic I see my water temp shoot up quick and the buzzer and red light went on. Fortunately very near home. When I stop coolant all OK but no sign of rad fans operating (just hear the bubbling of my coolant and have a VERY hot engine). Check the fan fuse on top of the battery and its fooked and also melted a bit of the fuse box.

Just before christmas is not a good time for this so I hope a garage can fit me in (I've still done no christmas shopping and it's hectic at work). After I let everything cool off it took a couple of goes to fire up (normally starts OK). Is there anything I should check? Also is there likely to be any underlying cause for the fuse to go like this?

Thanks guys. Both reassuring and not. Reassuring in that it's not a major problem with my car - not reassuring because I seem to be starting to go through the list of regular VAG part failures (MAF, brake switch, nuclear meltdown of fan fuse, etc). I may just become a travelling VAG spares van.

More problems.

To save the time and hassle of getting in a new fuse box my local garage bypassed the old fuse box with an external fuse that now sits between the battery and the air box. If anything this may be less suseptable to heat from the engine. The fans now seems to work OK. However...on the way to work my revs were sitting at 1k at idle whereas it was always 750 without fail before. I stop the car to pop into the shops and I have to turn it over a couple of times and give it gas to start it again.

Let it cool and start it up at work and again it needs gas and now the revs are too low (500 rpm at cold). I won't be starting the car again until tomorrow as I am on a night shift. Now, I can see they've overfilled my coolant as it's almost up to the top of the expansion tank but what may be causing my current problems? It didn't start properly when I first tried it after it overheated first time but it started OK the next morning. Could the very hot coolant have knackered the water temp sensor or do you think the overheating could have affected something else? Hopefully not my MAF again? (only replaced 3000 miles ago). Any suggestions appreciated before I pass back by the garage tomorrow.

basstard said:

No, the overheating won't affect the maf, it isn't touched by the engine coolant,,,

You deffo need to empty the coolant reservoir asap and well berate the garage guys for this!! WFT is in their heads?

Click to expand...

Do you know what the effect of overfilled coolant could be? Would the overflow drain not take care of it or will pressure still be an issue. Re the MAF, I know the coolant doesn't come in to contact with it but it was the fact that I could have probably barbequed a horse on my engine for a couple of hours that I thought the extra heat in my engine compartment might have affected any number of components. I read in another thread as well that the water pump also stops if the fan fuse fails and that that normally continues to circulate after the engine stops - could this be another source of my problems?

Bit miffed with it all tbh - especially after I came across the poll thread that showed pic after pic of it happening to other people. http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=89756

Update

For future reference if anyone else has a similar problem:

Had it back in the garage this morning (had to give it gas to warm it up and avoid stalling before I could drive off).

Diagnostics came up with:

Code 029C Battery voltage terminal 30 signal too low and
Code 011A Throttle valve actuator short to B+

Idle actuator was reprogrammed and all seems to be running perfectly. Clearly the fan fuse burning out had a knock on effect and things just needed resetting (touch wood). At least I've not needed to fork out on new parts, but the test will be when I do a cold start tomorrow morning.