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Swap them for FR 4 dials. 6 dials are crap anyway.
Remember to ensure you get the SKC from any new clocks that you buy so swapping the clusters is easier.
Remember to ensure you get the SKC from any new clocks that you buy so swapping the clusters is easier.
Tubz
Guest
What about getting the immob coded to my car? do I 'have' to go to a dealer or can I get it done elsewhere?
Anyone with VCDS (VAG-COM) can code your new clusters. You only need the SKC from your old clocks and the new clocks to swap them.
Getting the SKC requires VAG-Tacho unless you have the code already.
Getting the SKC requires VAG-Tacho unless you have the code already.
I used pages on this forum to help me do this fix myself. If you search '6 Dial Dash' or similar and do as much research as you can using those pages you might be able to fix this for the price of a soldering iron. The 'pins' (where one of the electrical blocks plugs into) in the back of the dash appear to be fine, but this is often the problem. This might explain why they couldn't find the fault when you sent it off as they look grand. Had the same (costly) issue myself.
This...
I've fixed 2 6 dial clocks, in both cases it was a case of re-soldering every pin on the green connector even if it looked good.
Here is a pic of the connections that need soldering. some can be re-soldered without removing the speedo and some can't (as you can see) but the speedo comes off easy as long as you're careful.
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That's because whoever does the soldering doesn't fit the fuel and temp needles back on in the right place. In an ideal world you would mark the needle positions before you remove them.
Tubz
Guest
I had done all that, it didn't work. Sent it off to a cluster repair company but they said that they couldn't fix it so its either new clocks at a dealers or second handers and get them coded
Have a look round your local breakers yards (or a vag specialist breaker if there's any near you). I found that the phone book is a lot quicker than trawling through the million-and-one hits on google if you're looking a breaker.
On the other hand, you may be able to fix your current cluster if you solder it. Just a thought but could the solder have been disturbed when you took your cluster out? Hence why it didn't work when you put it back in. Also did you take the needles off? Because I believe that they can be pushed back into place too hard making the needle too tight to the face of the cluster. (i.e. if you pulled the needle off and put it back on again making sure it wasn't on too tight, would it work then?)
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I found that if you accidentally moved the needle from its rest position when pulling it from the cluster it would give an incorrect reading even if you pushed it back in at the rest position. You need to hold the loose end with your left hand and pull the connected end with your right hand. For example my revs where reading about 1500rpm too high so I did this left/right hand trick (i.e. I didn't turn the needle round to the rest position, because although the needle wasn't put on correctly, the mechanism showed how far out it was), but then replaced the needle a the rest position. Very hard to explain, hope this makes sense.
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