04 pd130 temperature gauges

[TheMilkman]

My wife's Ibiza pd130 runs great, isn't losing coolant, not getting too hot, etc. but on random occasions the coolant sensor 3 beep warning will sound. Doesn't matter if the car has been standing for a day or two, or constantly being used. Sometimes it beeps, sometimes it doesn't. Temp gauge was staying below 90 and fan would kick in when needed. However, the other day the temp gauge shot up past 130° which put my wife into a panic, but after checking everything over, all seems well, except when turning the ignition off I noticed the temp gauge doesn't drop below 90. I also noticed the oil temp gauge doesn't seem to work. It will rise a little then drop and stay on min.

Is this likely a bad soldering job on the instrument cluster? And as I have only one key, is there anything I should do to avoid that key from failing?

I've changed the temperature sensor, and the problem persists.

Tia guys,

- James

 

[Dan FR]

Do you have a 6 dial cluster? Think its a common issue if so http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=392662

You could replace the cluster, but need the immo coding in

 

[R3k1355]

Do you have a 6 dial cluster? Think its a common issue if so http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=392662

You could replace the cluster, but need the immo coding in

Yea the oil temp and battery voltage were the 5th and 6th gauge on that cluster.

It's a common problem with solder joints breaking, if you know what you're doing with a soldering iron you can fix it up yourself.

If you get a new cluster it will need to be coded to the car by someone with VCDS.

 

[Dan FR]

Failing that i can program a second hand cluster and even program another key for you if you get stuck since you're local-ish

 

[TheMilkman]

Failing that i can program a second hand cluster and even program another key for you if you get stuck since you're local-ish

Aww mate, any chance you can quote me happy? I'll be chuffed to bits if I can get this done for my wife. It'll be a big weight off my mind bro.

I'm up for resoldering.. but I hate stripping dashboards lol.

And yeah, its the 6 pod cluster.

Thanks all. Appreciate the feedback so much. Woodworkers don't do cars lol

 

[TheMilkman]

Yea the oil temp and battery voltage were the 5th and 6th gauge on that cluster.

It's a common problem with solder joints breaking, if you know what you're doing with a soldering iron you can fix it up yourself.

If you get a new cluster it will need to be coded to the car by someone with VCDS.

Ah, that's interesting. Will the old vag-com be able to recode the dash too? And what gets recoded? Miles covered? or is it more than that? Cheers!

 

[R3k1355]

No idea if old vag-com would be any good.

 

[Dan FR]

Theres more to it than just using Vagcom or VCDS, need to retrieve immo code, adjust mileage etc which VCDS alone won't do.

No harm (i hope!) in attempting the soldering as the cluster is easy to split, but let me know if you want to go down the replacement cluster route. I wouldn't charge much more than cost of fuel to come to you and get it all working

 

[TheMilkman]

Theres more to it than just using Vagcom or VCDS, need to retrieve immo code, adjust mileage etc which VCDS alone won't do.

No harm (i hope!) in attempting the soldering as the cluster is easy to split, but let me know if you want to go down the replacement cluster route. I wouldn't charge much more than cost of fuel to come to you and get it all working

Mate, yeah, please let me know how much for a replacement cluster, and if you can get to me all the better.. totally appreciate any help. Inbox me when free. Cheers!

 

[big_wig_074]

sorry to hijack, but can the immobiliser light be turned off after a dash change?ive got the FR clocks fitted, immobiliser removed etc... but ive had to professionally instal black tape over the constantly flashing immobiliser light.

 

[Dan FR]

Mate, yeah, please let me know how much for a replacement cluster, and if you can get to me all the better.. totally appreciate any help. Inbox me when free. Cheers!

Think you misunderstand a little mate, i don't supply them, i don't do it for a business or anything like that. I just have tools for things like that from years ago, bought for my own use. If you locate and purchase a suitable cluster, i can help you to fit it if needed, and also sort the immo side of it which is what puts a lot of people off - finding someone to do this

sorry to hijack, but can the immobiliser light be turned off after a dash change?ive got the FR clocks fitted, immobiliser removed etc... but ive had to professionally instal black tape over the constantly flashing immobiliser light.

Yeah, you turn the immo back on and code it all in correctly. Absolutely no need to de-immo a car for a cluster change...... oh, and your current insurance will be invalid too!

 

[TheMilkman]

Ah, cheers Dan, I'll keep an eye out for a 6 gauge cluster and drop you a message if and when I find one.

 

[TheMilkman]

Can a 4 pod cluster be fitted instead? With an aftermarket oil temp gauge mounted elsewhere? I'm so confused over this and having the temperature gauge permanently high is worrying, even if it is just cluster failure. I'll run a full vcds scan tomorrow, then attempt to resolder.

 

[Dan FR]

From what i've read you can fit a normal cluster, the FR one seems a popular upgrade.

An oil temp gauge isn't mandatory, most cars don't even have one. Even if you find another 6 gauge one it'll only be a matter of time before it fails.

 

[TheMilkman]

From what i've read you can fit a normal cluster, the FR one seems a popular upgrade.

An oil temp gauge isn't mandatory, most cars don't even have one. Even if you find another 6 gauge one it'll only be a matter of time before it fails.

Stripped and resoldered cluster and each individual gauge. Works great now...

However,, the driver's side front window cable got tangled and has either broke or broke a bracket.. horrible glass scratching sound, and the window is now stuck fully open. Can't get the glass out or the metal card off the door now. Fed up of vag cars already!

 

[Dan FR]

Great work, one job sorted!

Possibly the clamps that hold the glass to the runner have failed. Metal cover is probably riveted on and first time it comes off it needs drilling out. i had to replace both front window mech's on my Mk4 Golf which was a common fault

 

[TheMilkman]

Great work, one job sorted!

Possibly the clamps that hold the glass to the runner have failed. Metal cover is probably riveted on and first time it comes off it needs drilling out. i had to replace both front window mech's on my Mk4 Golf which was a common fault

Sorry, I missed your reply... turns out I needed a 12 pointed M8 spline bit to renove the lock which is riveted to the metal card (card itself is held on by 10mm bolts). A cable had simple come off a carrier, then got wrapped around the regulator. Bought a full Lucas part for £40 from my local motor factors, the spline bit off fleabay for £6 and went to work. You'll also need a T20 or T25 Torx bit (I used a decking board screw bit), and a LOT of patience. Otherwise, it was a 2 hour job.

Don't be a pleb like me and forget to reconnect the central locking wire to the door lock though, or the whole thing will have to come off again

And for anyone with cluster problems, PLEASE attempt a repair yourself. It really isn't difficult at all.