Aftermarket Wheels

[Nadav]

Is anybody here driving with aftermarket wheels and experiencing vibrations at highway speeds?


I have Advanti Hybris wheels, and my alignment, wheel balancing, and tires are all in good condition. I still can’t figure out why I’m getting vibrations at highway speeds. One tire service center told me they think it’s because the wheels are not OEM, but that sounds strange to me.


Is anybody here having that problem too ?

 

[tracktoy]

I have two sets of after market wheels
8.0x19 5x112 ET45 OZ RACING ULTRALEGGERA HLT
FOX FX004 I9690B 8X19 FX004 5X112 ET45 73.1

I use them on both road and track and have no issues with vibrations.

The only thing that you have to be careful with aftermarket wheels in my limited experience is the actual hub size, all my wheels have plastic inserts (spigot rings - thanks @SRGTD) in the hub to fit my car (they came with the wheels where you had to confirm what car they were for)

 

[SRGTD]

I’ve had aftermarket alloys on VW’s I’ve previously owned and never had an issue with vibrations at speed. A few things below to check that might be the cause of the vibrations you’re experiencing;

• Alloy wheel fitting kit; should have been supplied with your alloys a) if the centre bore size of your new alloys is larger than that of your original alloys and / or b) wheel bolts with a different seat type are required for your new alloys.

a) If the centre bore size of your new alloys is larger than that of your original alloys, you should have been supplied with a set of spigot rings of the appropriate size to fit to the inside of the centre bore of your new wheels to reduce its size to the same as the centre bore of your original alloys. Fitting spigot rings helps ensure the correct alignment of the wheels on the car’s hub assemblies. It’s possible that vibrations could be experienced while driving if spigot rings (of the correct size) are needed but not used.​

​

b) if different wheel bolts are required for your new alloys. Seat original equipment alloys use wheel bolts with a radius / ball seat and many (the majority of?) aftermarket alloys use bolts with a tapered / conical seat; the differences can be seen in the picture below (radius / ball seat in the middle and tapered / conical seat on the left). From a safety perspective, it is very important the correct wheel bolts for the wheels are used to maximise the contact patch between the wheel bolt seat and the profile of the bolt hole in the wheel. Using the incorrect bolts could a) put undue strain on the bolts b) result in the bolts working loose.​

​

• Bolt tightening sequence and procedure; The correct wheel bolt tightening sequence should be followed and the bolts torqued up to Seat’s spec (I think it’s 120 Nm but I’m not 100% certain, so something to check). With a five bolt wheel, the bolts should be tightened in a star sequence (see below) - finger tight first while the car is still jacked up. Then go around a second time (same star sequence) and tighten using a wheel brace (but not over tight). Lower the car to the ground and using a torque wrench, torque up to the correct torque setting - again, using the star sequence.

 

[Nadav]

I’ve had aftermarket alloys on VW’s I’ve previously owned and never had an issue with vibrations at speed. A few things below to check that might be the cause of the vibrations you’re experiencing;

• Alloy wheel fitting kit; should have been supplied with your alloys a) if the centre bore size of your new alloys is larger than that of your original alloys and / or b) wheel bolts with a different seat type are required for your new alloys.

a) If the centre bore size of your new alloys is larger than that of your original alloys, you should have been supplied with a set of spigot rings of the appropriate size to fit to the inside of the centre bore of your new wheels to reduce its size to the same as the centre bore of your original alloys. Fitting spigot rings helps ensure the correct alignment of the wheels on the car’s hub assemblies. It’s possible that vibrations could be experienced while driving if spigot rings (of the correct size) are needed but not used.​

​

b) if different wheel bolts are required for your new alloys. Seat original equipment alloys use wheel bolts with a radius / ball seat and many (the majority of?) aftermarket alloys use bolts with a tapered / conical seat; the differences can be seen in the picture below (radius / ball seat in the middle and tapered / conical seat on the left). From a safety perspective, it is very important the correct wheel bolts for the wheels are used to maximise the contact patch between the wheel bolt seat and the profile of the bolt hole in the wheel. Using the incorrect bolts could a) put undue strain on the bolts b) result in the bolts working loose.​

​

View attachment 49893

• Bolt tightening sequence and procedure; The correct wheel bolt tightening sequence should be followed and the bolts torqued up to Seat’s spec (I think it’s 120 Nm but I’m not 100% certain, so something to check). With a five bolt wheel, the bolts should be tightened in a star sequence (see below) - finger tight first while the car is still jacked up. Then go around a second time (same star sequence) and tighten using a wheel brace (but not over tight). Lower the car to the ground and using a torque wrench, torque up to the correct torque setting - again, using the star sequence.

View attachment 49895​

First of all thank you for you answer

They did put spigot rings made from plastic the size as far as I know is the car hubs 57 and the wheel is 66 and I saw it and it's fit very well
About the wheel bolt I don't know what they put I assume they used the correct ones

On top oof that the car was drifting to the right and I checked the wheel alignment and its was good so I switched between the front wheels and now the car is a little bit drifting to the left and the vibration got worst so I think its the tire problem but in the tire service checked with the Hunter machine the road force and he said the tire is in good condition so I am really don't know what to do now

 

[Nadav]

I have two sets of after market wheels
8.0x19 5x112 ET45 OZ RACING ULTRALEGGERA HLT
FOX FX004 I9690B 8X19 FX004 5X112 ET45 73.1

I use them on both road and track and have no issues with vibrations.

The only thing that you have to be careful with aftermarket wheels in my limited experience is the actual hub size, all my wheels have plastic inserts (spigot rings - thanks @SRGTD) in the hub to fit my car (they came with the wheels where you had to confirm what car they were for)

Yes I have spigot rings made from plastic do you think It will be better if I will replace it with aluminium

 

[tracktoy]

Yes I have spigot rings made from plastic do you think It will be better if I will replace it with aluminium

I have both and no problem with either

 

[nd-photo.nl]

@Nadav Jep same, I have plastic rings 90% of the time but they work just as great as aluminium ones. If the alignment is correct, then the issue is most likely in the wheels.

Did you buy the wheels new or 2nd hand?

 

[Nadav]

@Nadav Jep same, I have plastic rings 90% of the time but they work just as great as aluminium ones. If the alignment is correct, then the issue is most likely in the wheels.

Did you buy the wheels new or 2nd hand?

I bought new wheels

 

[nd-photo.nl]

Hmm thats strange. Might be worth letting the wheels be checked out at another place?

If you believe the tire service place, then I think you should shift your focus to drivetrain/suspension. Wheel alignment etc is static, which is done on a 4 post lift etc.

Im putting my money on worn suspension bushings, which flexes under load.

 

[SRGTD]

It might be worth getting the tyres checked. Assuming they’re new, they should be free from defects, but manufacturing defects can happen (could the tyres be mis-shapen?)

If wheels and tyres, are free of defects, wheels are balanced and have been fitted correctly to your car and alignment is within spec, then I agree with @nd-photo.nl; you might have an issue with worn suspension components.

 

[Nadav]

Hmm thats strange. Might be worth letting the wheels be checked out at another place?

If you believe the tire service place, then I think you should shift your focus to drivetrain/suspension. Wheel alignment etc is static, which is done on a 4 post lift etc.

Im putting my money on worn suspension bushings, which flexes under load.

I did checked with another place and the same results
Alignment is also good
From what I saw the suspension looks ok

 

[Nadav]

It might be worth getting the tyres checked. Assuming they’re new, they should be free from defects, but manufacturing defects can happen (could the tyres be mis-shapen?)

If wheels and tyres, are free of defects, wheels are balanced and have been fitted correctly to your car and alignment is within spec, then I agree with @nd-photo.nl; you might have an issue with worn suspension components.

The tires are used
This is what I think that one tire is bad
I had drifting to the right on the highway speed and after switching sides between the front wheels the car started to drifting slightly to the left on the highway
But the tire service place said the tires are ok so I am a little bit confused

 

[nd-photo.nl]

Then I would go to another shop and buy some better tires

 

[SRGTD]

Then I would go to another shop and buy some better tires

Me too.

 

[Nadav]

Then I would go to another shop and buy some better tires

The tires I have now is continental sport contact7
It’s a very good tire
But yes I think I will try to replace the front tire with new ones