Alternator

asthpsw

Full Member
Apr 23, 2004
524
1
Southampton
I've submitted a thread under "Toledo" reference my Aura Radio & how it came to be in Safe mode...........however I have to change the Alternator & it seems that I have a 90AMP one but there is a 120AMP one available..........does anyone know if the larger one will fit ?............is there benefits to fitting the larger output version ? Has anyone done this ? (I can see what additional accessories / electrical equipment that is fitted to require 120AMPs as my Toledo seems to have all the electrical gadgets going other than a Heated screen) My Toledo is a 2001 110 BHP TDI SE

What I said in the other thread was :

I have a 2001 Toledo (TDI) where the radio has gone into safe mode........I followed the directions in the Aura Radio manual that came with the car but now I find that the radio display constantly shows '2 SAFE' & this is after leaving it for 48 hours (the manual says give it time to allow it to be reset & that the radio should be connected to power & turned off....which it has been)


How the radio came to be in safe mode was because I went on a long journey & using heater/wipers/lights etc & the Alternator was not throwing out enough Volts so I suddenly found that certain electrical systems started being closed down by the Computer....firstly the ABS/Traction control then the Radio then when I turned off the ignition, it wouldn't start. Getting the Alternator changed but its the radio thats causing the most headache.

Paul
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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cheshire
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they should be the same size just a difference internally, depending on plans for any extra load on the system v's cost, it won't hurt to fit the bigger version, but a battery heath (load) check would be a good idea at the same time, and probably a damn good external charge
 

asthpsw

Full Member
Apr 23, 2004
524
1
Southampton
Thanks Nic, I'm getting it done tomorrow, I have been cjhecking the Battery & its shows 12.5V average but of course not able to test underload, I'll see if the garage can do that.

As for charging it, I found that the charger that I've got pushes out 12.2V on "high" charge....hence did not have any effect on the battery !..............once I've got the new alternator on I'll give it a good run & then re test the battery again.

What is the Voltage of a Good battery ? What is the output of an alternator supposed to be with all electrical systems going ???

Thanks,

Paul
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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the battery should at most be approx13.5V and a fast tickover the alternator should show approx 14.5V with no load switched on, with a moderate load you should still see 12+ when reving above tick over
 

asthpsw

Full Member
Apr 23, 2004
524
1
Southampton
I've had the Alternator fitted & indeed it does give out over 14V, which is of course more than previously, but what I'm finding is the battery is still at 12.5V after being left overnight....which is as much as before I had the alternator repaired.............I thought as suggested in this thread I'd give the battery a good charge but I'm finding that my battery charger will only throw out a max of 12.2V (& thats on High charge!) so that isn't any good for a battery already at 12.5V .....................what is a healthy battery supposed to be showing voltage wise after not being used/charged for 6+ hours ? & what should a good decent battery charger be throwing out ?

Its a sealed battery but I can access the plates so maybe I'll look at the levels

Paul
 

muddyboots

Still hanging around
Oct 16, 2002
5,739
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You will only ever get 14+ volts when the engine (and therefore the alternator) is running.

With the engine stopped you should only see around 12v from the battery, so everything sounds normal to me ?
 

Ad Lav

vRS...
Nov 10, 2006
4,230
1
Kent
Mine does a similar thing, the car starts at 12v then sits at 11v when started and 1000rpm - the revs are peaking because the alternator isn't pushing through enough volts, once I pull away it goes up to 14v or more and idle settles to 800rpm ish? :shrug:
 

muddyboots

Still hanging around
Oct 16, 2002
5,739
1
Mine does a similar thing, the car starts at 12v then sits at 11v when started and 1000rpm - the revs are peaking because the alternator isn't pushing through enough volts, once I pull away it goes up to 14v or more and idle settles to 800rpm ish? :shrug:

The alternator sometimes has to rise above a certain RPM to kick in; once this has happened the voltage will rise to 14+ and stay there until switched the engine is switched off.
I've had a couple of cars like this - if you just start and leave running, switch the headlights, wipers etc on, then rev it a bit - the alternator kicks in and the lights brighten, wipers speed up etc.

I think you'll find your revs are initially slightly higher simply because the engine's just been started from cold - this shouldn't have anything to do with the alternator.
 

cheshire cat

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Dec 28, 2002
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cheshire
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I've had the Alternator fitted & indeed it does give out over 14V, which is of course more than previously, but what I'm finding is the battery is still at 12.5V after being left overnight....which is as much as before I had the alternator repaired.............I thought as suggested in this thread I'd give the battery a good charge but I'm finding that my battery charger will only throw out a max of 12.2V (& thats on High charge!) so that isn't any good for a battery already at 12.5V .....................what is a healthy battery supposed to be showing voltage wise after not being used/charged for 6+ hours ? & what should a good decent battery charger be throwing out ?

Its a sealed battery but I can access the plates so maybe I'll look at the levels

Paul
good one is @13.5V
 
Jan 22, 2007
2,074
0
some may say lala land....
would it not also depend on upon how long/short your journey, as i recall though may be myth, that it takes 10miles to charge the effort used to start a car, and so the battery will die sooner in live than expected and as a result give out less power.

apologies if i'm wrong which is highly likely.
 

healy6660

Right Old Giffer
Mar 30, 2007
77
0
Cumbria
The rectifiers on most modern cars kick in around 12.6 volts (anywhere between 900 and 1100 rpm) and this is sometimes why the ignition light doesn't go out straight away on cold mornings with a diesel, as the alternator tries to claw back the capacity used to start the car
Something else to watch out for on cars which are flattening their batteries, is the ignition light not coming on at all.
OK, so its a dead bulb. However, this circuit is often used as a trigger voltage for the diode pack/rectifier and it means you don't start charging until 2500rpm, and in town driving how often does that happen
Result 1 dead battery, and misery especially if the wife is out in the car at the time

With a good alternator and a decent battery 3 miles is nearer the mark for re-charging but that is on a summer morning without any other major loads on any circuits
you can double that for winter
 

Ad Lav

vRS...
Nov 10, 2006
4,230
1
Kent
Mine still does this, a friend ran a VAG-COM just in case... came up with this...

Friday,19,October,2007,20:32:09:50186
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Data version: 20070723
Chassis Type: 6L - Seat Ibiza/Cordoba
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 17 19 37 44 46 55 56

VIN: VSSZZZ6LZ3R224922 Mileage: 54730km/34007miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-019-130.LBL
Part No: 038 906 019 DQ
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 1536
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 06402
VSSZZZ6LZ3R224922 SEZAZ0C0720002

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0 0 X X X

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: None
Part No: 6Q0 907 379 H
Component: ABS/ASR 5.7 FRONT V30
Coding: 00188
Shop #: WSC 06403

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 6L0 820 043
Component: CLIMAtronic PQ24 0201

1 Fault Found:
00787 - Temperature Sensor in Fresh Air intake duct (G89)
010 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: None
Part No: 6Q1 937 049 C
Component: 00 BN-SG. 1S33
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 06402

1 Fault Found:
01598 - Drive Battery Voltage
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.LBL
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 S
Component: 14 AIRBAG VW5 07 0007
Coding: 12596
Shop #: WSC 06441

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: None
Part No: 6L0 920 930 K
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP TRW V02
Coding: 00445
Shop #: WSC 06402
VSSZZZ6LZ3R224922 SEZAZ0C0720002

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901.LBL
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: 62 GATEWAY CAN 1S33
Coding: 00014
Shop #: WSC 06402

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: None
Part No: 6Q0 423 156 Q
Component: LenkhilfeTRW V250
Coding: 10141
Shop #: WSC 23030

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 6Q0-959-433.LBL
Part No: 6Q0 959 433 E
Component: J2 Komfortgerát 0002
Coding: 00064
Shop #: WSC 06402

Part No: 6Q1959801A
Component: J2 Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0002

Part No: 6Q1959802A
Component: J2 Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0003

1 Fault Found:
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Passenger Side (F221)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

End --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

But I have no idea with VAG-COM!

Any ideas?!
 

Wallis22

Active Member
Aug 25, 2007
282
0
Sorry to thread jack but thought you guys would be able to help me.

My battery went dead so i jump started the car and left it running at idle. After about 10 minutes the car died. Is the alternator faulty or will it just not charge the battery at idle? I've already ordered a new alternator but if i catch it in time i might be able to cancel the order. Thanks.
 

tener

Active Member
Jan 23, 2007
150
0
Mine does a similar thing, the car starts at 12v then sits at 11v when started and 1000rpm - the revs are peaking because the alternator isn't pushing through enough volts, once I pull away it goes up to 14v or more and idle settles to 800rpm ish? :shrug:

yo m8,where is the crawley meet??
i live in crawley.

is ok found it.
 
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