Apr 24, 2007
985
0
W. yorkshire
Can anyone answer me this?

I have an Baileys DV26 atmospheric dv and i know of all the problems this causes with LCR.
But if i bypass the N249 and remove the vacuum reservoir does this not solve part of problems?
From what i could understand from just stright forward logic this would have been the case but after looking at a few threads posted here i am not a little in two minds.

can anywone clear up what would be achieved by removing the reservoir and N249.:think: :headhurt:
 
Oh dear... you're in for it now :lol:

Atmospheric DV's don't work on the 1.8T engine. The only exception to this is Forge's Split-R valve, as that is part circulating and part atmospheric.

Removing the N249 wont get around this issue either I'm afraid.
 
Then you'd have more boost escaping via the DV every time the throttle plate closes :<

Split-R all the way... or a simple re-circ :< Bailey and 1.8T's are friends!
 
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Don't shoot me but what if you fit a boost controller such as a Greddy or Apexi AVC-R?

well herd on some apexi could be fitted but not to a standard engine! if fit standard this coudl case limp mode and engine light!
vag cars are mainly designed for remap
 
I've got stage 2 but have fluctuating boost so i'm gonna try a boost controller which i checked with a garage was safe to try as my car is already set up to take the boost. In theory i could use an atmospheric valve. I'm not going to as i've only had my split-r for a couple of months but it was just a thought.
 
I've got stage 2 but have fluctuating boost so i'm gonna try a boost controller which i checked with a garage was safe to try as my car is already set up to take the boost. In theory i could use an atmospheric valve. I'm not going to as i've only had my split-r for a couple of months but it was just a thought.

People on here do run boost controllers.

As long as the person that remaps your car has the ability / experience (like Star do) then it's workable
 
running an atmos DV has nothing to do with boost. you will get your fuelling wrong, so you need to loose the MAF (which you can't)

Boost controllers require the map to be altered to allow a greater %age deviation of boost compared to that that the ECU will request/deliver
 
If they have experience of making these run in harmony with the ECU then that's great.......although why do you need to stabilise 'the boost' if the cars been mapped by them

My boost fluctuates and doesn't always hit full boost. It did when it was done but a month or two down the line it started being unstable. Everything has been tried even the ecu but still can't find the fault so my idea was to use a boost controller which i happen to of got for free off my brother (Greddy profec spec 2). JKM said it would work all i would have to do is make sure the boost tails off at the end.
 
i have an atmospheric DV on mine and run for more than 2 yrs with no prob!!! Bailey have the DV26-D which is a twin piston and works fine with my LCR!!!!
 
It is a MYTH that all 1.8T's cannot run atmo BOV's - hundreds if not thousands of 1.8T owners run BOV's - the HKS SSQV, Bailey DV26 and Forge 004 all work on 1.8T engines - and many have proved with VAG-COM logs that they are not running rich and have run a BOV for 40k+ miles. You run rich for a nano-second when you change gear, that's it! I removed my spark plugs after a year of running the HKS and they were perfect, not a hint of rich running.
 
hi mate no no probs at all!!!! it boosts to 12 psi all the time!! never gone into limp mode and the engine management light has never come on!!! i have the bailey DV26-D valve. i believe they designed it for the 210/225 engine!! like i say its been on 2 years now n never caused a prob!! it makes quite a loud noise too!!
 
I wonder what Forge were doing all that time when they were testing the Split-R then, to make sure it was running perfectly with no errors?