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Audi S3 GT3582R stroker Build (previously GT3071r)
- Thread starter tufftybloke
- Start date
Busy day...
Started by finishing off fitting the AP Racing bolts to the other disc as I only got one done last night. Then moved onto the problem with the hose not fitting the throttle body properly.
Removed the battery and battery tray, undid the MAP sensor tube bracket and loosened up the hoses lower clamp.. essentially fixed it in placed properly top and bottom before attempting to bolt the MAP sensor tube back down. Spaced the bracket up with a couple of stainless steel nuts and bolted it back down... trimmed a bit off the edge of the battery tray so it would not interfere with the MAP sensor tube and jobs a good un...
Next I fitted the new injectors to the fuel rail
New 630cc injectors top, S3 bottom
Fitted...
As the 630's are taller, spacers were required to raise the fuel rail...
Wiring reached fine so no need to lose the OE fixtures. I did take the opportunity to re-loom the replacement knock sensor 1 wiring I replaced as I was getting fault codes indicating the wiring was at fault and taped it properly into the loom running it through some flexi conduit along with boost gauge hose. All nice and neat... engine bay is coming back together nicely...
....more to follow...
Started by finishing off fitting the AP Racing bolts to the other disc as I only got one done last night. Then moved onto the problem with the hose not fitting the throttle body properly.
Removed the battery and battery tray, undid the MAP sensor tube bracket and loosened up the hoses lower clamp.. essentially fixed it in placed properly top and bottom before attempting to bolt the MAP sensor tube back down. Spaced the bracket up with a couple of stainless steel nuts and bolted it back down... trimmed a bit off the edge of the battery tray so it would not interfere with the MAP sensor tube and jobs a good un...
Next I fitted the new injectors to the fuel rail
New 630cc injectors top, S3 bottom
Fitted...
As the 630's are taller, spacers were required to raise the fuel rail...
Wiring reached fine so no need to lose the OE fixtures. I did take the opportunity to re-loom the replacement knock sensor 1 wiring I replaced as I was getting fault codes indicating the wiring was at fault and taped it properly into the loom running it through some flexi conduit along with boost gauge hose. All nice and neat... engine bay is coming back together nicely...
....more to follow...
Next job was the fuel filter relocation. Luckily, Bill had a load of hoses he ripped out of his Ibiza so I had a load of OE push fit connectors allowing me to do a neat job of the pipework. Made a bracket and mounted it in..
Test fit...
Used some silicon hose to prevent rubbing etc, final fitment..
I am not 100% happy with this at the moment... I am going to revisit it again once everything else is done with a mind to make a more stable bracket that maybe stands off the engine mount or something... its very tight down there and there are a few hoses in the way so want to make sure its not going to cause any probs being there.
And there we have it. I have one hose clip to refit as I over tightened it (DOH!!) and thats pretty much it for connecting stuff up under the bonnet.
Next job is to wire and plumb in the inline fuel pump, fabricate a TIP, fabricate the DP, rejig the water hose from the block to the turbo as I am not happy with it and look at the oil drain again as it needs a bit of tweaking to ensure it misses the driveshaft.
Bit of mapping to top it off and should all be done
Might be going over tomorrow to remove the rear seats etc for the pump wiring but more likely have a weekend away from it as I am back at work next week and could do with taking some actual time off...
Home stretch now, its been a fairly hectic couple of weeks but nearly done and all is looking good...
Just as a final comparison... here is a pic of the engine bay before I started..
...and how it is now...
<tuffty/>
Test fit...
Used some silicon hose to prevent rubbing etc, final fitment..
I am not 100% happy with this at the moment... I am going to revisit it again once everything else is done with a mind to make a more stable bracket that maybe stands off the engine mount or something... its very tight down there and there are a few hoses in the way so want to make sure its not going to cause any probs being there.
And there we have it. I have one hose clip to refit as I over tightened it (DOH!!) and thats pretty much it for connecting stuff up under the bonnet.
Next job is to wire and plumb in the inline fuel pump, fabricate a TIP, fabricate the DP, rejig the water hose from the block to the turbo as I am not happy with it and look at the oil drain again as it needs a bit of tweaking to ensure it misses the driveshaft.
Bit of mapping to top it off and should all be done
Might be going over tomorrow to remove the rear seats etc for the pump wiring but more likely have a weekend away from it as I am back at work next week and could do with taking some actual time off...
Home stretch now, its been a fairly hectic couple of weeks but nearly done and all is looking good...
Just as a final comparison... here is a pic of the engine bay before I started..
...and how it is now...
<tuffty/>
not yet... the people I 'won' an exhaust from have now pulled their offer so I will look elsewhere... get her fired up and running first then worry about that later
<tuffty/>
<tuffty/>
I am looking to run a 3" cold air feed or something to it and smooth it out a bit. One of the guys onASN did it to his and sent me links to the pics so might have a pop at that next week
<tuffty/>
<tuffty/>
yup, good ol' green panel
Thanks mate... its what I was aiming for and so far its all coming together nicely
<tuffty/>
This is a great read, very well written and carried out.
I take it your strutt brace is only removed to gain access and you'll be putting this back on when all is done?
Why do you want to keep the OEM look.
I'm all for keeping it looking as OEM as possible but this might limit your performance like with the MAP tube, intake manifold and the OEM air box.
Theres a very good guide in the MK1 Leon section for the 3" feed and air box smoothing with pictures.
I take it your strutt brace is only removed to gain access and you'll be putting this back on when all is done?
Why do you want to keep the OEM look.
I'm all for keeping it looking as OEM as possible but this might limit your performance like with the MAP tube, intake manifold and the OEM air box.
Theres a very good guide in the MK1 Leon section for the 3" feed and air box smoothing with pictures.
Thanks, I appreciate it
Yeah, just gets in the way while fabrication of the TIP an DP is ongoing... will be back on after its all fitted.
Having a lot of power in an otherwise std looking car has always appealed. Its one of the reasons I bought an Audi as they have always been a bit subtle in the looks department for the 'S' range of cars.
I am not chasing numbers with this build, the brief was OEM look, drivable as its a daily driver, reliable but to have power of course. The turbo was chosen for this reason, small hotside to aid spool but enough flow to get good power without cranking up the boost into heat pump territory.
Rather than spend loads and gain little, I want to be a little more logical with my approach. I can't see the point in spending hundreds on valve gear if I get no power beyond the OEM redline, no point in spending hundreds on a SEM mani if I only gain 10bhp etc or that it needs supporting mods such as a ported or large port head and valves etc which is all expense which may effect the drivability of the car...
I have further tweaks planned which does involve the MAP tube and the FMIC to change the charge pipe run to 60mm throughout but other mods will have a more considered approach.
If the airbox itself is restrictive enough to loose me a lot of power then I will address it but improving the flow to the box should certainly work as well as if not better than having a cone filter in a hot engine bay... we shall see..
Thanks, I'll go check that out... every little helps
<tuffty/>
Updates are gonna be a bit infrequent once I go back to work as with Bill off and Tony doing the odd evening I won't get much time to work on the car.
Spent a bit of time with the fuel pump today. I have ordered some new fittings so not going to fit the pump up properly as yet but I did wire it in.
..then wired it off the OEM pump wiring...
Still not entirely happy with the arrangement of the pump fittings. Going to look into getting hold of either VAG style push fittings or at the very least have a chat with APR in the states as they have a pump with the push fit ends on which would be ideal...
If I get a chance I will have a look at the TIP next week.
Getting there...
<tuffty/>
Spent a bit of time with the fuel pump today. I have ordered some new fittings so not going to fit the pump up properly as yet but I did wire it in.
..then wired it off the OEM pump wiring...
Still not entirely happy with the arrangement of the pump fittings. Going to look into getting hold of either VAG style push fittings or at the very least have a chat with APR in the states as they have a pump with the push fit ends on which would be ideal...
If I get a chance I will have a look at the TIP next week.
Getting there...
<tuffty/>
If you like OEM, have a look for the R32 DSG (I think that's what it's off) air feed - it's a larger cross section than the standard snorkel. Not total sure it'll fit yours, I think the A3's slam panel is different.
The entry into the stock airbox takes an 80mm feed, so that's pretty big, but the stock snorkel is narrow.
If Bill's mapping it, maybe map it with the snorkel removed, then log it with the snorkel fitted and see if the g/sec drops.
The entry into the stock airbox takes an 80mm feed, so that's pretty big, but the stock snorkel is narrow.
If Bill's mapping it, maybe map it with the snorkel removed, then log it with the snorkel fitted and see if the g/sec drops.
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