I wanted to share this as I have recently replaced the front discs and pads and Just finished the rears today. Before I did them I looked for as much info as I could on forums like this and also YouTube.
The fronts are pretty straight forward watch the videos on YouTube. Everything is easily accessible, no non-standard tools are required. I would recommend a thin profile 17 mm open spanner.
The rears are a little tricky (I do not have an electronic brake). There a certain tools that will make the job easier that I will list at the end. Removing the Calipers are the same as the fronts (13 and 17 mm bolt/nuts) just less room. Caliper carriers are a different matter and require an M14 hex bit (shortest one you can find). They are an absolute a**e to get off due to the limited space especially if you don’t have access to a ramp or pit.
The part where I found a lot of questions but not many useful answers were regarding rewinding the caliper piston and I hope this will answer many questions as my pistons were sticky and I have a brake rewind tool although you do not need one (there are a few videos on YouTube). It took me a while to get them unstuck, but the answer was really simple and this is where the rewind tool comes in handy. Put something in the caliper to stop the piston coming right out but allows a 5-10 mm movement and press the brake pedal. If the caliper is in good order then you should be able to wind back the caliper using a pair of long nose pliers! Turn the caliper clockwise to rewind, so make sure you use the correct tool. You do not need to crack the bleed nipple, but I would recommend replacing the brake fluid as this is most likely the cause of it sticking. I have been lazy and not done mine for 4 1/2 years, but then this is first time I have had to replace the pad (would recommend every 2 years). The rest is straight forward again.
Tools that will help:
13 mm ratchet spanner (sockets don’t fit in the rear)
Thin socket wrench (mine is about 25 mm and getting the carrier bolt off was very tight. Also if you have a hinged one that helps too.
If you can find the M14 hex bit on the end of a breaker bar is ideal.
The rewind tool is good if you have sticky pistons as once you have move the piston you can release it.or just ind it back in. If you use something solid you have to remove that before rewinding and that may be difficult depending on how hard you pressed the pedal!
Hope this helps.
The fronts are pretty straight forward watch the videos on YouTube. Everything is easily accessible, no non-standard tools are required. I would recommend a thin profile 17 mm open spanner.
The rears are a little tricky (I do not have an electronic brake). There a certain tools that will make the job easier that I will list at the end. Removing the Calipers are the same as the fronts (13 and 17 mm bolt/nuts) just less room. Caliper carriers are a different matter and require an M14 hex bit (shortest one you can find). They are an absolute a**e to get off due to the limited space especially if you don’t have access to a ramp or pit.
The part where I found a lot of questions but not many useful answers were regarding rewinding the caliper piston and I hope this will answer many questions as my pistons were sticky and I have a brake rewind tool although you do not need one (there are a few videos on YouTube). It took me a while to get them unstuck, but the answer was really simple and this is where the rewind tool comes in handy. Put something in the caliper to stop the piston coming right out but allows a 5-10 mm movement and press the brake pedal. If the caliper is in good order then you should be able to wind back the caliper using a pair of long nose pliers! Turn the caliper clockwise to rewind, so make sure you use the correct tool. You do not need to crack the bleed nipple, but I would recommend replacing the brake fluid as this is most likely the cause of it sticking. I have been lazy and not done mine for 4 1/2 years, but then this is first time I have had to replace the pad (would recommend every 2 years). The rest is straight forward again.
Tools that will help:
13 mm ratchet spanner (sockets don’t fit in the rear)
Thin socket wrench (mine is about 25 mm and getting the carrier bolt off was very tight. Also if you have a hinged one that helps too.
If you can find the M14 hex bit on the end of a breaker bar is ideal.
The rewind tool is good if you have sticky pistons as once you have move the piston you can release it.or just ind it back in. If you use something solid you have to remove that before rewinding and that may be difficult depending on how hard you pressed the pedal!
Hope this helps.