Brake Discs and Pads

[Israar]

Hey guys and gals!

I've been wanting to get to doing my brake discs and pads for a while now, I know I don't have the funds to do them yet but while it's still fresh in my mind I wanted to get some recommendations and also some clarification!

I believe that my front brake discs are 280mm by 22mm thick, though there are the possibility of it being 256mm by 22mm thick? Rears being either 232mm or 256mm (again not 100% sure) only way I can know for sure what is on mine properly is to measure both front and back respectively.

So, what I would like to know is when I find out the right discs to fit to my car, what types would you suggest and why? Solid, grooved or drilled and grooved? I don't personally want to have the drilled type due to reading about them being able to split/crack quite easily, so the drilled option would be out of it for myself.

Any particular pad type? I was going to go down the route of Pagid for the time being but with me knowing next to nothing I'd rather get some recommendations, just for the topic I want to stay around the OEM style, I'm not uprating the brakes or anything like the calipers or going bigger sized discs just yet, I don't want to go down that route until it's time for a remap and the funds are there!

I've taken a look at this thread, that guide should be spot on for doing my brakes right? If not are there any particular tips or tools I'd need to have on hand before attempting this?

Hopefully I've put enough information here, if not let me know what I'm missing and I'll try to include more

Thanks in advance!

--Lee

 

[Gabster]

Hi
I'd recommend to go to eurocarparts website, enter your reg number and you can find out the disc size through the parts that will be displayed.

I use Bosch pads on my 150 fr, recently I drove through Europe 3k miles in 2 weeks and they were fine. Gives you nice progressive feel.

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[Lukesmith93]

Rear discs will be 232mm and fronts 288mm


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[sockpuppet]

I personally wouldn't get drilled discs again as mine developed cracks and began to warp, the grooves seem ok though.
Mtec's are better value than the standard OEM's in my opinion and brembo max are good if you can get them at a decent price.

Make sure you have all the tools you need before starting and the proper windback tool for the rear brakes as you can't just compress the pistons on the rears like you can with the fronts, they need the special winback tool to apply pressure and winding.

 

[Lukesmith93]

I personally wouldn't get drilled discs again as mine developed cracks and began to warp, the grooves seem ok though.

Mtec's are better value than the standard OEM's in my opinion and brembo max are good if you can get them at a decent price.



Make sure you have all the tools you need before starting and the proper windback tool for the rear brakes as you can't just compress the pistons on the rears like you can with the fronts, they need the special winback tool to apply pressure and winding.

What are the Mtec discs like. Are they better than pagid under continuous heavy braking?


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[sockpuppet]

There was definitely less brake fade from the Mtec's but they were drilled and grooved and only lasted 40000 miles before the holes developed cracks and warped compared to the 60000 miles form the oems. I'm running grooved brembo max at the moment and will probably get them again if I can get 50000+ miles out of them.

 

[Lukesmith93]

My oems have last 20000 and warped il drill grooved Mtec I think see how they are can't decided what brake pads either ds2500 or yellow stuff I want good performance but very little brake dust.


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[Israar]

Thanks for the input guys, the fronts are definitely larger than the rear, not checked them properly though when checking Eurocarparts, the only sizes for fronts show 256mm, 280mm and 312mm. Definitely don't believe them to be 312mm haha, how come you suggested 288mm Luke?

If I'm honest I don't think the discs have been replaced in a long time, not way I can tell until they are off as I believe there is a marker on there to tell how badly worn they are right?

I'll have a look at the Brembo Max discs, see what prices come up, what would you say a decent price for them are sockpuppet? A quick glance and little wipe of the rear pad shows Ferodo, I've seen that name about here a few times but not sure precisely where, are Ferodo any good? I don't do a lot of heavy continuous braking if that helps haha!

Again thank you for the quick replies, will look in to this wind back tool, fronts can be pressed back by hand (the piston that is?) though rear needs the pressure from the tool, thanks for that tip!

--Lee

 

[Burnzybubbles]

For the fronts I find a strong screwdriver wedged into the caliper and lever against the brake disc to fully push back the piston before you unbolt it makes life easier.

 

[747_727]

I bought mtec discs for my LCR but I ordered dimpled not drilled to reduce that chance of cracking.
I've never got anywhere near 60000 miles out of a set of front discs!! I'd be happy with 30000!!

 

[Lukesmith93]

I say 288mm as they didn't do 280mm. What model is your car and what year? Earlier cupras had 312mm then they swapped over to 288mm on all cupra and fr models to save money apparently. So they will be either 288mm or 312mm. Rears will be 232mm solid (non vented) discs.

Ferodo are good. A lot of people on here use ferodo ds2500 pads, expensive but they are meant to be the best. I'm thinking of using these or the yellow stuff pads next time. And also I'm thinking of using Mtec brake discs. I will be doing lots of hard braking that's why I'm going for that setup.


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[MOZ_LC_TDI]

Been here before (very frustrating , once you know what disks you have then there is the fun of which size pads!!! ) see my thread below. read it all as there is some good stuff, including the tip to ensure you have a 7mm hex (allen key or ratchet attachment) before you start.

Mines a PD150 cupra TDI with the 288mm front discs, I think yours are probably the 280mm discs (with the ASV 110 engine) best to take your wheel off and double check as 280 and 288 are too close to call without the wheel off.

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=419749

I ended up with Pagid pads and Textar discs from ECP, Textar are part of the OEM supplying TMD friction group (including Pagid,mintex,textar etc). Also get a price online at ECP then call your local branch for a quote as it was much cheaper in branch in the end rather than the pseudo massive online discount bait.

My brake combination works extremely well and I am pleased with the performance for the cost. I wanted to get the ATE branded parts but ECP didnt have them in stock (do retail them but no time to wait) and i needed them that day so went for what was in stock (wanted ATE brand just from recommendations from other forums, but as I say am happy with what i got).

Hope this thread helps.

kind regards.

Moz

 

[Lukesmith93]

Pads depend on your calipers Lucas or ate and all that.


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[Israar]

Thanks guys!

Had quite the weekend sorry for not coming to reply sooner!

Will give your thread a read Moz, much appreciated for the link!

@Lukesmith93: Mine is a 1.9 SE TDi, ASV engine 110. Going from the Eurocarparts site they never showed me the 288mm size which is why I questioned that one though really appreciate the explanation!

When I'm up Manchester next weekend, I'll take a front and rear off to find my exact measurements and get back to you all, I knew I saw Ferodo on here somewhere, that's where I see ds2500 all the time! Cheers Luke much !

Will look in to them and see whether I go back with them if that is what I have on! What are the yellow stuff pads too?

I'll have to look in to this Lucas and ATE stuff, those just go straight over my head right now haha! When I'm sat down tomorrow after a sleep from work I'll give the thread and the newer mentions a proper look over as I need to head out for work now!

Again thank you so much for getting back to me guys!

--Lee

 

[Lukesmith93]

If it's a 110 it will more than likely have 280mm discs. But might as well check if you can to be safe. The rears will be 232mm.

Yellow stuff are part of the EBC range. The yellow ones are designed for fast road/track days. So take a good first brake to get warmth into the pads, the advantage of these are no brake fade and (supposedly) the least amount of brake dust produced.


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[Israar]

If it's a 110 it will more than likely have 280mm discs. But might as well check if you can to be safe. The rears will be 232mm.

Yellow stuff are part of the EBC range. The yellow ones are designed for fast road/track days. So take a good first brake to get warmth into the pads, the advantage of these are no brake fade and (supposedly) the least amount of brake dust produced.

Been having a look around the web, also had another look at the calipers through the wheel vents haha, the fronts are marked up as FS-III (to which I'm having an abundance of results of 280mm brakes) and the rears I can't tell properly from the pictures.

I don't believe the one pad is a Ferodo DS2500 (due to reading about them and their cost haha!) though from a search on the part I found stamped on the pad (FER5102).

From looking at Ferodo's website I believe I've got ATE fronts and LUCAS rears. Though until I take the wheels off the weekend up at Manchester (at the family's) then I won't know 100%, only reason I believe this is due to referencing the DS2500's to my car!

Front's: http://ecat.ferodoracing.com/car-racing/brake-pads/FCP1094
Rear's: http://ecat.ferodoracing.com/car-racing/brake-pads/FCP1491

Referencing the discs though (Seat Leon 98-06 1.9 L)

Front: DDF928 : Brake Disc - Ferodo - 280 x 22 Vented
Rear: DDF929 : Brake Disc - Ferodo - 232 x 9 Solid

At least from going off of their site with your lots information, I'm pretty set on what my dimensions are for the brakes.

I don't think I'll be going down the route of the DS2500 brake pads just yet as they are out of my budget, though at some point down the line I will start picking them up, I've never done a race/track day, though I'd rather have work done to the car and have it remapped before I consider taking it to a track!

I've not yet looked at the Yellow Stuff pads, though after posting this I'll take a look at them, brake fade is a lack of braking right? Or the braking seems worse than it should?

@Moz: I took a good look at your thread too mate, was a nice read!

I'm definitely taking my wheels off this weekend up Manchester and I'll try and get some good shots of all 4 of the brakes so I can have a good reference and you lot can have a good nosy haha, though will most likely post them in my RR to save space on here. Plus you get to see the state they are in, the brakes seem pretty damn good if I'm honest it's just one of those things I want done

Hopefully none are warped as I've heard of discs warping though not entirely sure on why or how they warp. Side note, how do you check for a sticking piston or what ever it is that causes a squeal?

I've also seen when people change pads they use a copper like paste, what is it and why is it used on the pads? I believe it's on the reverse sides of the pads when putting in to the calipers so it's not touching the brake disc itself.

Thank you all so much for the help too!

--Lee

 

[Lukesmith93]

Yes if they say fsIII they will be 280mm. You don't need the ds2500 unless your driving fast and hard.

Brake fade is the reduction in stopping power that can occur after repeated or sustained application of the brakes, especially in high load or high speed conditions. Brake fade is caused by a buildup of heat in the braking surfaces and the subsequent changes and reactions in the brake system components. Loss of stopping power, or fade, can be caused by friction fade, mechanical fade, or fluid fade. Brake fade can be significantly reduced by appropriate equipment and materials design and selection, as well as good cooling. In other words performance pads and brake fluid will usually stop road brake fade. For track use you may need bigger discs to disperse the heat better.

You will know if your discs are warped as the steering will shake when you brake. Warped discs can be due to a manufacturer fault (I've bought new discs and they've been warped) or to much heat in the discs causing it to warp.

You mean copper grease, this put on the back side of the pad to stop the pads from squealing.


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[Israar]

Cheers Luke, aye I don't intend on having the ds2500 to be honest now as it's not very often I put my foot down due to where I drive, I only put my foot down on the dual carriageways and motorway runs!

With my intentions of not actually doing track days, I should be more than fine for staying away, I'd most likely enjoy a track day but I don't want to punish the car before I have it perfect!

That's good then, mine should be sound as I don't have any steering shakes, also yes copper grease haha! Thanks again for all the help much appreciated guys!

--Lee

 

[Israar]

Hey guys, long time I know haha! Hope all is well!

Just curious, I've been scouring the web for wind back tools and I have to say there is a shed load and more to choose from haha! XD

What I'd like to know is those of you with a similar model to mine (I'm guessing the Mk1 Petrols would be similar to the 1.9 TDi aside from the brembo brake setups) would this tool be the right one for me to use? Laser Brake Caliper Rewind Tool

If it is then I'll go buy it today ready, then all I need to do is purchase the discs and pads when I'm up Manchester over the Christmas period as well as the copper grease!

From what I've got so far, the piston needs to be turned and pushed back, clockwise.

Hope everyone is well and all the beautiful cars are in much love!

--Lee

 

[Lukesmith93]

Yes that's the correct tool. Recently just put mtec brake discs on mine all round with mintex pads and it's great!


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