36mm difference according to this calc
http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html
205/40/17 to 205/55/16
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Car is far too low, LCR splitter is scrubbing on anything and everything.....
- Thread starter Mo Arif
- Start date
36mm difference according to this calc
http://www.tyresave.co.uk/tyresize.html
205/40/17 to 205/55/16
Yes mate I've got this, I know how it works, i.e. what it goes around etc, but I don't know which way to turn it, and how to measure the ride height etc
Wind the spring collar downwards to lower the car (clockwise), wind the spring collar upwards to raise the car (anti-clockwise).
I this correct?
Also how do I measure how much i've done on each side, count the threads ?
On the front there should be a retaining grub screw so you know how many revolutions and the rear can just be temporarily marked to see
If you ever down this neck of the woods i can do it for you, played with the height of mine so many times now
If you ever down this neck of the woods i can do it for you, played with the height of mine so many times now
can I adjust the front coilovers with the wheels on, locked on each side, or do I have to remove the wheels?
Depends if you want to spend hours on a 5min job, if so leave the wheels on. Seriously dude, this IS the easiest job ever, you don't sound confident with mechanics but it takes no mechanical knowledge at all.
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With some coilovers when you raise/lower the height you are also adjusting the load on the spring and ultimately the handling of the car.The main purpose of coilovers is for corner weighting really.
I adjusted mine until I was happy with the height by measuring from the centre of the wheel to the highest part of the arch, then I got the car corner weighted.
I adjusted mine until I was happy with the height by measuring from the centre of the wheel to the highest part of the arch, then I got the car corner weighted.
Totally agree. By lowering the ride height on a coilover what you are doing essentially is taking some stiffness/load off of the spring and placing it more so on the shock absorber which inevitably will provide a hard ride due to little rebound in the shock itself, you are compromising its performance however, when compared to many OE setups this is still much much better in terms of road holding and body roll. The way the coilover lowers a car is by allowing you to set the amount you want the shock absorber to be able to compress, a slacker spring will obviously compress more and therefore the weight of the car will compress the shock more, or as much as you wish it to until the desired ride height is achieved. Ironically a stiffer/more compressed spring/higher ride height will provide a softer ride as the shock is aloud more movement. This is where damping adjustable shock absorbers are great, they don't totally cancel out the hard ride given by coilovers that are very low but yu can ajdust the rebound on the shock itself to compress more softly...at a price I might add on fast moving roads with many dips, giving a kind of 'wavey' motion not ideal for performance at hight speed but more bareable on slower A-Roads & in town.
My car is pretty low, it's bumpy but not too bad however when I raised it a couple of CMs the handling was fantastic. I do however drive this one day per week and not on the track so looks are more of concern although I would raise the car for a track day.
My car is pretty low, it's bumpy but not too bad however when I raised it a couple of CMs the handling was fantastic. I do however drive this one day per week and not on the track so looks are more of concern although I would raise the car for a track day.
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Mo... i had exactly the same problem with my coilies, You dont need to remove the wheels, today had to raise again due to scraping, all you need to do is get the front wheels off the floor, take steering lock off with key, then turn the wheel full lock, theres enough room to just get the 'C' spanner in, if you see the base of the threads on the leg, thats where i measured from, upto the top collar, i think itstoward rear of car to rasie hight both sides, you will see when you undo the locking collar which way it needs to go.
simply adjust 1 side, and measure from the points i said and repeat for the opp side and job done!
make sure you do the locking rings up nice n tite tho.
Hope this helps matey
p.s still aint done me skirts!!
simply adjust 1 side, and measure from the points i said and repeat for the opp side and job done!
make sure you do the locking rings up nice n tite tho.
Hope this helps matey
p.s still aint done me skirts!!
For the time it takes to remove a wheel then I'd just do that, far too fiddly with the wheel on and you can't get enough room to make a full turn of the coilover so it takes twice as long if not more to do it.
I always scrape on badly cambered roads although I do worry how much is splitter vs undertray and then sump.
I always scrape on badly cambered roads although I do worry how much is splitter vs undertray and then sump
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the thing is...... my sump is like 2 inchs or less away from the ground ..........
My car doesn't look that low from the sides because of the low profile tyres on the 17's.... but it's very low
My car's a daily driver so it is getting a bit annoying now
This weekend i'm going to have a crack of raising it
My car doesn't look that low from the sides because of the low profile tyres on the 17's.... but it's very low
My car's a daily driver so it is getting a bit annoying now
This weekend i'm going to have a crack of raising it
I have a whiteline undercar brace which connects the wishbones together and with the coilovers set low it was catching on bumpy roads/bad cambers.Seeing as its only an inch or so lower than my sump I raised the ride height sharpish as didn't want the best part of 10 grand engine destroying itself on a speed bump
hussain
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