Then u got ur answer, battery is fine and that's charging, try the voltage drop test
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Car wont start.
- Thread starter STU3Y
- Start date
Then u got ur answer, battery is fine and that's charging, try the voltage drop test
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im confused. I never queried charging. I am trying establish if batt is knackered or if it is draining too fast when not used.
Plan for tomoz is to check batt voltage again. then check drain. Having done that will try start car and hope it doesnt start. Then will hook up another car to see if that solves it.
if not then can rule batt out and will crank it with fuel line off to see if get constant fuel, if do then im lost after that and will prob have get it recovered to vw specialist
if not then can rule batt out and will crank it with fuel line off to see if get constant fuel, if do then im lost after that and will prob have get it recovered to vw specialist
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everything appeared to go on and off with the ignition but posted the pic above to see if anyone couod confirm. worst case I will pull the fuse and see what happens
unplug the fuse, then with car ign off try the volt drop test if it shows nothing and no volt hold the meter in place while u put the fuse bk in and check for volt if nothing shows it is ok, it volt shows up 005 amps or more it's faulty wirin with fuse u done
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Battery is fine, 12.4+ volts is fine and this will continue to drop as has been mentioned. From what youve described so far the battery is not the issue. The old original battery on my Golf would drop to 8v on a cold morning but it still just about managed to start the engine. If it was a bad battery - you would know.
As for the fuel in the oil - you would see and smell it, and your oil level would rise. You would notice.
Fuel pipe - get it from a local motorfactors, put it in line between the fuel filter and the engine, no idea on size - measure it. A clear fuel filter (motorcycle fuel filter) would also do the job and would save you having to remove the pipes and get fuel everywhere,
As for the fuel in the oil - you would see and smell it, and your oil level would rise. You would notice.
Fuel pipe - get it from a local motorfactors, put it in line between the fuel filter and the engine, no idea on size - measure it. A clear fuel filter (motorcycle fuel filter) would also do the job and would save you having to remove the pipes and get fuel everywhere,
I still think its fuel related, if it was mine i would be checking the lift pump is doing its job properly
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How do I do that. is that by pulling pipe and cranking to look for continuous fuel
waited 4 days. battery was 12.41 today. tried to check drain on it but couldn't do it with car locked without alarm going off. Unlocked there didn't seem to be any drain. at one point came up with 0.04 but didnt do it again.
Radio is fine still, however everything else reset and now I have steering wheel warning light on dash in yellow??? Help!! how do I get this out.? Edit...
Quick drive and the light went out.
So thinking the batt drain is ok I tried start car expecting nothing and to my annoyance it fired up straight away but was a bit rough for a couple of seconds, however this was starting without any revving.
Now Im not sure what to do to test stuff. I intended to check crank speed and fuel flow but not entirely sure which plug I need to pull off. is it the big round one on the top right of the head near the maf
Radio is fine still, however everything else reset and now I have steering wheel warning light on dash in yellow??? Help!! how do I get this out.? Edit...
Quick drive and the light went out.
So thinking the batt drain is ok I tried start car expecting nothing and to my annoyance it fired up straight away but was a bit rough for a couple of seconds, however this was starting without any revving.
Now Im not sure what to do to test stuff. I intended to check crank speed and fuel flow but not entirely sure which plug I need to pull off. is it the big round one on the top right of the head near the maf
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Have also noticed a whistle/squeal that has never been present before, it hard to hear on video but obvious in real life. I am worried its premature wear to my turbo after the tw@ from RAC revved the crap out of it the other day whilst cold and before it even had a chance to lubricate. The noise can be heard right at the end just as the engine has fired up.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDHidPyf6Wo
www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDHidPyf6Wo
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Right, I think I've checked this now. I again pulled off hose 1 and checked for flow but this time while cranking. There was flow but I wouldn't describe it as constant as such more pump pump pump as the engine cranked.
I also checked hose 4, this delivers a lot more fuel than hose 1 and I would say is pretty constant when cranking to the point I had to shut it off quick to avoid spilling it.
Now I am not sure if that means hose 1 isn't quite right or not? One thing I have noted is when the engine is running if you squeeze each hose, you can feel a slight pulse through hose 1 but not any of the others. IS THIS NORMAL OR COULD IT BE MY PROBLEM?
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Having checked everything I plugged the injector loom back in and turned it over, fired up as normal then increased revs ever so slightly for a few seconds before running around 832ish.
The main concern was the engine management light was now on, I used torque app to search for fault codes and the following came up
P062D - GenericTypePowertrain - Computer and Auxiliary Outputs - ISO/SAE ControlledDescription
Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Performance
LocationBank 1
Now I am assuming that this is just because I was cranking with the loom disconnected so I have cleared it and started the car again, it has not returned yet an car is ticking over fine.
Can anyone take a quick photo of there plug so I can be sure I put it in correctly. I believe it should have been like this, as I'm sure the 2 was in the position shown.
The main concern was the engine management light was now on, I used torque app to search for fault codes and the following came up
P062D - GenericTypePowertrain - Computer and Auxiliary Outputs - ISO/SAE ControlledDescription
Fuel Injector Driver Circuit Performance
LocationBank 1
Now I am assuming that this is just because I was cranking with the loom disconnected so I have cleared it and started the car again, it has not returned yet an car is ticking over fine.
Can anyone take a quick photo of there plug so I can be sure I put it in correctly. I believe it should have been like this, as I'm sure the 2 was in the position shown.
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It is jinxed, but it will be perfect by the time I've bloody fixed everything
You have to put the car through a cycle to get a code to show up again (or not show up of course). It's something like leaving it in electrics on for 15 seconds, then ignition and a drive of x minutes at x revs. Forgot the exact numbers. Ordinarily you'd drive it, but in your case it might be more difficult.
That code does reek of a loom being disconnected though
That code does reek of a loom being disconnected though
REFRESHED LIST OF INVESTIGATION SO FAR
Full list of possible causes, comment if you can assist with any of the above, even the ones already answered. Your expertise and experience will be much appreciated. Please remember that this fault only occurs after the car has sat for 3-4 days, and does not occur other than that.
However since changing the fuel filter the car started after 4 days this time but spluttered a bit before settling fine.
1.GLOW PLUGS
Unlikely due to operating temp of 14 degrees - not checked
2. FUEL FILTER
Unlikely as no running issues - replaced now and did start after 4 days. May have been causing the issue?
3. BATTERY AMPS
Unlikely as cranks well, not checked by professional properly but on multimeter shows,
12.64 engine off, 10.61 when started, 14+ while running.
Also battery condition lense still shows as green on battery itself.
Started today on 12.41 which is less than 75% charge, also no drain shown. Ruled out?
4. FUEL PUMP (under back seat) - possible
Can be heard to prime, and hose 1 delivers a burst of fuel into filter housing when ignition cycled;estimated about 25ml, and repeated bursts when cranking.
Hose 4 delivers larger quantity of fuel probably closer to 40-50ml and at more of a constant rate when cranking.
Only thing of note when squeezing each hose with engine running hose 1 pulses but no others do. Is this normal or should it be a constant flow like a tap.
5. CRANK SENSOR - possible
Possibly checked using torque app, revved at 211 first crank then 838 running, 117 second crank 838 running. (All of this is while the problem isn't present)
Even with battery at 12.41 the injector loom was disconnected and crank speed was 290 over several attempts. Ruled out?
6. CAM SHAFT SENSOR
Unlikely as would cause delay in start rather than failure to start.
Where is it and How do you check this?
7. INJECTORS
Unlikely as should throw up fault code - not checked
8. NON RETURN VALVE
Where is it and how do I check this???
9. FUEL TEMP SENSOR
Unlikely as would cause running issues after starting.
Where is it and how do I check this???
10. STARTER MOTOR
Injector loom disconnected and crank speed was 290. This was after 4 days but car still started this time. Ruled out???
11. INJECTOR SEALS
Cant smell any diesel in oil, no obvious rise in oil level. How else can this be checked???
12. HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP
Is this the tandem pump near the injector loom? How is it checked??
13. COOLANT TEMP SENSOR
Torque app readings for Coolant temperatures appear to be as they should.
Where is it and how else do I check this???
14. ELECTRICAL DRAIN ON BATT BY DASHCAM
Believed to switched so unlikely unless someone knows different. See above post with pic.
Attempted to check drain on batt today via negative clamp and negative batt post, readings were mainly 0 however once 0.04 was displayed but could not be replicated.
Full list of possible causes, comment if you can assist with any of the above, even the ones already answered. Your expertise and experience will be much appreciated. Please remember that this fault only occurs after the car has sat for 3-4 days, and does not occur other than that.
However since changing the fuel filter the car started after 4 days this time but spluttered a bit before settling fine.
1.GLOW PLUGS
Unlikely due to operating temp of 14 degrees - not checked
2. FUEL FILTER
Unlikely as no running issues - replaced now and did start after 4 days. May have been causing the issue?
3. BATTERY AMPS
Unlikely as cranks well, not checked by professional properly but on multimeter shows,
12.64 engine off, 10.61 when started, 14+ while running.
Also battery condition lense still shows as green on battery itself.
Started today on 12.41 which is less than 75% charge, also no drain shown. Ruled out?
4. FUEL PUMP (under back seat) - possible
Can be heard to prime, and hose 1 delivers a burst of fuel into filter housing when ignition cycled;estimated about 25ml, and repeated bursts when cranking.
Hose 4 delivers larger quantity of fuel probably closer to 40-50ml and at more of a constant rate when cranking.
Only thing of note when squeezing each hose with engine running hose 1 pulses but no others do. Is this normal or should it be a constant flow like a tap.
5. CRANK SENSOR - possible
Possibly checked using torque app, revved at 211 first crank then 838 running, 117 second crank 838 running. (All of this is while the problem isn't present)
Even with battery at 12.41 the injector loom was disconnected and crank speed was 290 over several attempts. Ruled out?
6. CAM SHAFT SENSOR
Unlikely as would cause delay in start rather than failure to start.
Where is it and How do you check this?
7. INJECTORS
Unlikely as should throw up fault code - not checked
8. NON RETURN VALVE
Where is it and how do I check this???
9. FUEL TEMP SENSOR
Unlikely as would cause running issues after starting.
Where is it and how do I check this???
10. STARTER MOTOR
Injector loom disconnected and crank speed was 290. This was after 4 days but car still started this time. Ruled out???
11. INJECTOR SEALS
Cant smell any diesel in oil, no obvious rise in oil level. How else can this be checked???
12. HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP
Is this the tandem pump near the injector loom? How is it checked??
13. COOLANT TEMP SENSOR
Torque app readings for Coolant temperatures appear to be as they should.
Where is it and how else do I check this???
14. ELECTRICAL DRAIN ON BATT BY DASHCAM
Believed to switched so unlikely unless someone knows different. See above post with pic.
Attempted to check drain on batt today via negative clamp and negative batt post, readings were mainly 0 however once 0.04 was displayed but could not be replicated.
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