Wash car, 2 bucket method, dry with MF cloth.
Next - claying..
1) I use a quarter of a meg's clay bar i got from helfrauds.
2) Warm in 750W microwave for 10 secs (or dump in warm water for abit), and mould to roughly 4 fingers width - it shouldn't be really thin.
3) Apply lube/spray to 2 ft section of car. (bonnet or roof is nice place to test your skills, because clay won't fall on the floor...).
4) Place clay on car, and fingers onto the clay to secure/hold it.
5) Now IN STRAIGHT LINES, move fingers/clay across the lube'd section.
6) You will feel the clay catching now and again as it picks up crud in each clay pass across the lube'd section.
7) If the clay sticks (ie you'll know when it sticks... it's similar to when you move the clay off the lube'd section onto dry paint)... if the clay sticks, spray the section with lube, always keep the working area lube'd.
8) PERIODICALLY, say, when you arm is tired, or clay is too thin... pick up the clay (DO NOT DROP !!!!) and look at the crud, re-mould / fold the clay to get a nice clean section of clay, and repeat (4) onwards.
(clay becomes thin, becuase the mild pressure spreads to clay out towards edges or fingers, so you need to re-mould/shape for a better grip/hold).
When that section does not catch any more, move onto new section and repeat (3) onwards.
Points to note:-
a) If you drop the clay, cry, cos it's ruined (will contain nice grit from the floor, which will scratch the car), grab another quarter of clay, and be more careful.
b) It's not about huge amounts of pressure when claying, just enough not to let it fly off when you're passing the clay across the lube'd section.
c) Stubborn bits, like near the door sills, that might have tar marks, just lube and keep claying, it'll come out, or increase pressure ever-so-slightly... (you could use tar remover, i have, but Iain might think it's wrong).
d) When re-moulding - a great tip that Iain/Andy pointed out, re-mould over the bucket of warm water. That way, it won't fall on the floor, becuase you hand's are covered in lube, and it might slip.
e) Use microfiber to mop up the lube after, and feel the difference.
f) You can't use too much lube (no dodgy comments please).
g) The first time a car is clayed, it normally takes longer, since it's full of 'crud'.
h) Always easier in the shade, since the lube won't dry up. Iain uses 10% car wash solution, so the car's completely soaked, so little chance of it drying up. I only hand a squirty bottle, so claying in one hand, and squirty action in other...
i) Keep clay in a sandwich bag, in an air tight box after use, and do not freeze... (all in instructions....). I moisen the clay with lube before I close the lid to stop it drying out.... just in case.
j) You can clay your windscreen if it has tree-sap stains on it, use the same methods.
Next - claying..
1) I use a quarter of a meg's clay bar i got from helfrauds.
2) Warm in 750W microwave for 10 secs (or dump in warm water for abit), and mould to roughly 4 fingers width - it shouldn't be really thin.
3) Apply lube/spray to 2 ft section of car. (bonnet or roof is nice place to test your skills, because clay won't fall on the floor...).
4) Place clay on car, and fingers onto the clay to secure/hold it.
5) Now IN STRAIGHT LINES, move fingers/clay across the lube'd section.
6) You will feel the clay catching now and again as it picks up crud in each clay pass across the lube'd section.
7) If the clay sticks (ie you'll know when it sticks... it's similar to when you move the clay off the lube'd section onto dry paint)... if the clay sticks, spray the section with lube, always keep the working area lube'd.
8) PERIODICALLY, say, when you arm is tired, or clay is too thin... pick up the clay (DO NOT DROP !!!!) and look at the crud, re-mould / fold the clay to get a nice clean section of clay, and repeat (4) onwards.
(clay becomes thin, becuase the mild pressure spreads to clay out towards edges or fingers, so you need to re-mould/shape for a better grip/hold).
When that section does not catch any more, move onto new section and repeat (3) onwards.
Points to note:-
a) If you drop the clay, cry, cos it's ruined (will contain nice grit from the floor, which will scratch the car), grab another quarter of clay, and be more careful.
b) It's not about huge amounts of pressure when claying, just enough not to let it fly off when you're passing the clay across the lube'd section.
c) Stubborn bits, like near the door sills, that might have tar marks, just lube and keep claying, it'll come out, or increase pressure ever-so-slightly... (you could use tar remover, i have, but Iain might think it's wrong).
d) When re-moulding - a great tip that Iain/Andy pointed out, re-mould over the bucket of warm water. That way, it won't fall on the floor, becuase you hand's are covered in lube, and it might slip.
e) Use microfiber to mop up the lube after, and feel the difference.
f) You can't use too much lube (no dodgy comments please).
g) The first time a car is clayed, it normally takes longer, since it's full of 'crud'.
h) Always easier in the shade, since the lube won't dry up. Iain uses 10% car wash solution, so the car's completely soaked, so little chance of it drying up. I only hand a squirty bottle, so claying in one hand, and squirty action in other...
i) Keep clay in a sandwich bag, in an air tight box after use, and do not freeze... (all in instructions....). I moisen the clay with lube before I close the lid to stop it drying out.... just in case.
j) You can clay your windscreen if it has tree-sap stains on it, use the same methods.
dunno though, what do you think??
