cold air feed pipe location

rcky89

Active Member
Jul 24, 2013
71
0
West Sussex
Just wondering where would be the best place to feed the cold air pipe to the front and weres the best place to have the end. Would going between the battery and the wing be best?
 

cupragirl

Active Member
Dec 10, 2009
49
0
Brizzle Me Babber
Basically yes. You have two options. Firstly just connect to the original inlet behind the headlight. An additional option here is to get the mk4 golf r32 inlet as it has a larger hole. Or feed your pipe through the hole down to behind the foglight area in the inner wing.
Hope this makes sense/helps. :p

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
 

ReDBull

Every day's a school day.
Nov 21, 2006
2,991
13
Lincoln
Is it a LC or LCR? If its a LCR you'll struggle to get the cold air feed past the SMIC pipe work.
 

rcky89

Active Member
Jul 24, 2013
71
0
West Sussex
Its a LC so that shouldnd be an issue as only the one smic.

Also is there evwn any benefit from having a cold air feed
 

ReDBull

Every day's a school day.
Nov 21, 2006
2,991
13
Lincoln
It's debatable. I've not bothered as that's what my FMIC is for but everyone else will disagree:)
It can't hurt though.
 

rcky89

Active Member
Jul 24, 2013
71
0
West Sussex
Im thinking of getting a fmic. But would it be worth it without a remap? Although I do plan on gettin it mapped at some point in the near future
 
Mar 16, 2013
516
0
Shrewsbury
it comes down to this, improveing performance on a engine relie's on a couple fundamentals...

How fast/efficiant you can get fuel into the engine and how fast you can get exhaust out. Its almost like the metabolism.

This includes Air aswell as petrol

So a Turbo increases the amount of air put into the manifold it compresses it, but when you compress air, it heats up, a FMIC cools it down again, cold air is denser than hot air, ie, contains more oxygen. thus is more efficiant.

A larger Exhaust, 3'' downpipes and stuff people have, increases the rate at which you can get rid of the waste gasses, thus a larger exhaust pipe is less restriction, same with cat's and silencers, they all reduce something, ''emissions/noise'' but you gain more restriction. So people cut them out. Im getting the silencer removed from mine soon, it gets you like 7BHP! thats like, almost a SCN stickers worth!

Bigger turbo's, bigger exhausts, better performance Maps, intakes, FMIC's all will increase your performance, but as i understand it, its ''safer'' to prepare the car with a FMIC/exhaust etc, before adding more boost, via a map. i dont know the exact details of a map, but i assume it increases the spool rates of a turbo, aswell as the engine management of how much fuel is used, etc etc.

If you put a maaaaaaaaaaad map on without the pre work, your forcing your motor to run faster, hotter, stronger, without giving it room to breath. You wont see a massive gain from a map without those mods first, imo, its better to get the stuff sorted first, then have a map for your setup.

I believe its called a ''Stage 2'' when you have those supporting mods. Stage 1, is just a map, which will give you more BHP but its stresses stuff more.

2cents/

I dont know much about it all, so feel free to correct me. id love to learn more.

Josh.
 

ReDBull

Every day's a school day.
Nov 21, 2006
2,991
13
Lincoln
Im thinking of getting a fmic. But would it be worth it without a remap? Although I do plan on gettin it mapped at some point in the near future

In a word yes.

I've got stage two mods with the standard map and making 238 BHP. Custom stage two map is booked but I'll of been nearly a year with the FMIC. have a look in the FAQ section there's a fitting guild in there.
 

rcky89

Active Member
Jul 24, 2013
71
0
West Sussex
Thanks for all this info. I think I'll go ahead with getting stage 2 mods and eventuallu get it mapped. Just not sure what I want to do first engine or styling lol. Ill start a thread with pics with my progress when I get started
 

ReDBull

Every day's a school day.
Nov 21, 2006
2,991
13
Lincoln
Thanks for all this info. I think I'll go ahead with getting stage 2 mods and eventuallu get it mapped. Just not sure what I want to do first engine or styling lol. Ill start a thread with pics with my progress when I get started

That depends if you enjoy driving your car or looking at it ;)
Get a RR going.
 

leon cupra r

Back in an LCR!
Nov 10, 2009
902
0
Barnsley
it comes down to this, improveing performance on a engine relie's on a couple fundamentals...

How fast/efficiant you can get fuel into the engine and how fast you can get exhaust out. Its almost like the metabolism.

This includes Air aswell as petrol

So a Turbo increases the amount of air put into the manifold it compresses it, but when you compress air, it heats up, a FMIC cools it down again, cold air is denser than hot air, ie, contains more oxygen. thus is more efficiant.

A larger Exhaust, 3'' downpipes and stuff people have, increases the rate at which you can get rid of the waste gasses, thus a larger exhaust pipe is less restriction, same with cat's and silencers, they all reduce something, ''emissions/noise'' but you gain more restriction. So people cut them out. Im getting the silencer removed from mine soon, it gets you like 7BHP! thats like, almost a SCN stickers worth!

Bigger turbo's, bigger exhausts, better performance Maps, intakes, FMIC's all will increase your performance, but as i understand it, its ''safer'' to prepare the car with a FMIC/exhaust etc, before adding more boost, via a map. i dont know the exact details of a map, but i assume it increases the spool rates of a turbo, aswell as the engine management of how much fuel is used, etc etc.

If you put a maaaaaaaaaaad map on without the pre work, your forcing your motor to run faster, hotter, stronger, without giving it room to breath. You wont see a massive gain from a map without those mods first, imo, its better to get the stuff sorted first, then have a map for your setup.

I believe its called a ''Stage 2'' when you have those supporting mods. Stage 1, is just a map, which will give you more BHP but its stresses stuff more.

2cents/

I dont know much about it all, so feel free to correct me. id love to learn more.

Josh.

Although the general gist of your post is right, no offense intended, but I'm glad you added that you don't know much on the bottom! Too many forum rumours going round at the mo!

Remaps mainly alter three things - boost, ignition timing and fuelling (although many 1.8T maps don't change fuelling, there's a whole different topic to go off on!). Boost up, timing advanced, fuelling made richer to avoid detonation and keep temps down.

'Stages' are pretty vague, the general consensus is stage 1 maps are pretty generic, safe increases of above parameters that will be fine for a standard car. Stage 2 are generally custom maps which should be done on a dyno, or at least on road with data logging to check how car handles the changes, for example checking timing pull to see where in the rev range it can be advanced further/where it needs pulling back. Stage 3 is generally for big turbo applications where the map needs a lot of customisation (time for tuner) hence more money for their hours.

As far as modding goes, our ECUs are pretty smart and you can stick most things on without maps, FMICs, induction kits / bigger TIPs, larger down pipes / straight through exhausts etc. This, as you implied, will help engine breathe better - will help turbo spool quicker and hence produce more boost faster. N75 duty is controlled based on MAP sensor so ECU will detect that pressure is increasing quicker and open wastegate more to vent off boost and keep pressure where it should be.

You shouldn't be able to put a 'maaad map' on without pre-requisite mods, as any tuner worth their salt won't stick a 22psi boost + 25deg BTDC timing request on a standard car and expect it to run smoothly. Add to this the fact the ECU will probably throw a wobbly, pull all the timing back out and likely throw an EML for a boost leak as requests aren't able to be met.

It's not safer to upgrade before a map, it's the only way to do it. Probably the only thing you may have issues with would be a 4bar FPR as the adaption required by the ECU to bring fuelling back into spec is supposed to be enough to throw an EML and make it think there's something wrong, although unisettings can be used to adjust the fuel trims and bodge this problem temporarily. Having said that, I've seen a lot of people using larger injectors to flow more fuel at stock pressures to avoid putting more strain on the fuel pumps as an alternative to using a 4bar FPR pushing the same volume of fuel at higher pressure through standard injectors. I couldn't comment on whether larger injectors would need mapping in though.

Ben