Coolant Loss

superkully

Full Member
Jul 1, 2004
95
0
Hello,

Just when I was posting that this little 1.2 was indestrucible I noticed yesterday that the coolant expansion tank was empty :)

It took just under a litre to get it back to the maximum level and it lost that liquid within 5 days / 57 miles.

I had a quick look last night, but couldn't see any coolant stains (closer look tonight).

I also pumped out some of the oil to check for emulsified coolant - nothing, and starting and running the car there was no vapour coming out the exhaust.

Are there any common, annoying leaks to look for on these cars / engines?

cheers,
 

superkully

Full Member
Jul 1, 2004
95
0
Cheers! That's not something I had considered, I'll be checking _everything_ thoroughly and failing finding anything take it in for a pressure test.
 

Guinness

Finally got the BMW
Nov 29, 2006
4,421
1
Newcastle
If your loosing that much you should be able to see viasble effects if its going into the enigne, check the oil cap it might be showing some signs of contamination that would obviously be the worse case.

However if you have a garage check the floor for leaks in the morning, take the bumpers off and check all pipework and the rad in detail. I doubt you would loose that much from a non sealing cap.
 

superkully

Full Member
Jul 1, 2004
95
0
Took it for a drive today and had a look straight away.

It's the water pump.

Anyone changed this on a 1.2? I'll give it a go during the week, but it looks quite cramped with the engine mounting just above.
 

mexicorich

Newbie
Apr 17, 2006
261
0
Hartlepool
Common leak point is where the coolant pipes pass through the bulkhead into the car heater matix
There is a particularly stupid design of clamp on some Ibizas.
The pipes clamp against the front face of the heater matrix sealed by two rubber o rings
Most Fabias and Polos have much stronger aluminium casting to clamp to the heater matix rather than the stupid feeble Ibiza type
 

superkully

Full Member
Jul 1, 2004
95
0
For anyone changing a waterpump on a 1.2. Haynes has a very vague section on this with four spanners (this is not four spanner difficulty). Here is how I did it:

I got an OEM pump from SEAT for £27 (inc. VAT), they take your old one so remove it when picking up the new pump or you'll have to leave a £30 deposit. I thought this better than buying the Circoli pump from Euro Car Parts for just a few quid less.

It's best to jack up the front offside and remove the undertray and offside wheel-arch liner (and offside wheel) for access. Both come off OK, the wheel-arch liner has a couple of screws under the bumper which are not immediately obvious. You should also take off the airbox / engine cover too (I put some cling-film over the now naked engine air-intake).

Drain the coolant.

Loosen off (but don't remove) the three allen head bolts (?mm) on the water pump pulley. You may need to press down on the serpentine belt to stop the pulley rotating, they're not on 'that' tight. There is only one pulley with three allen key bolts, it is the top-left one if you look at the side of the engine from the offside.

Now make a little diagram showing how that belt goes around all the pulleys :)

Pop off the black plastic cover on the tensioner (there is only one pulley with a cover), put your hand over it as it flys off.

Take a T50 Torx bit and pop it on a longish socket handle. Put it in the bolt in the centre of the tensioner and turn anti-clockwise slowly, this will move the tensioner left (as you look at it). You can then slip the belt off of one of the pulleys. Ease the tensioner back, pop off the socket and pull off the belt.

Belts are cheap (I think my Continental one was £3.90), you might want to consider chucking the belt you just took off and putting a new one on.

Undo the three pulley bolts you loosened before and take off the pulley wheel.

The water pump is attached with four 6mm allen bolts. An allen key isn't going to cut the mustard, a 6mm allen key bit and a socket handle (with a small extension for a couple of the bolts) are better. Looking at the pump from the side of the engine, the top-left one is easy, the bottom-right is not too bad. For the other two, I poked my head under the car and put in the driver and then attached the socket handle from above to undo them. This is because you can't see them from above, but they are easier to undo from there.

Once all four bolts are out, you'll need to give the water pump a good pull to pop it out - you'll get a nice refreshing pouring of coolant too.

I'm assuming refitting will be the reverse of removal, I'll post when that is done later on in the week.

I'll also upload a diagram of the serpentine belt routing and some pics when I put the new one in.
 
Last edited:
Jul 12, 2009
1,484
0
London
www.flickr.com
I have the same issues and it was a split in the coolant pipes. Still loosing some water over a period of about 2/3 weeks, and thought it would just be the system regaining pressure...
 
Lecatona HPFP (High-pressure Fuel Pump Upgrades)