Coolant Temperature Gauge rising to 95º and then back to 90º

[Turbo_Boss]

Hello Guys,

I really appreciated if you can help me.

I have a small problem with my coolant temperature in my 2002 Skoda with 1.8T 20V AGU engine.

Both Coolant fans are working in slow and fast speed
AC is working OK and is cooling perfectly
Fuse over battery are OK and not melted

When I am at stop light the coolant temperature rise a little bit from 90º to 95º (Please check the photo) It does not rise more than that.

When I begin to drive, the coolant temperature go back to the middle (90º)

Also, one day that I saw the temperature in 95º, I turn off the engine, wait a little and then start again the engine........ The temperature goes to 100º and a few sec later go back to 90º

I was thinking the Termo Switch was not working but I open the hood and I see both fans are working in hi speed and then they cycle to slow speed.

This problem happened after I took the car a weeks ago to the VW Dealer to fix a small leak on a coolant hose 1J0 122 109AQ that is near the coolant reservoir and when they gave me back the car, I notice they put me in a bag the damage hose part + two empty G12++ Coolant 32onz bottles.

I was curious because I am pretty sure when the replace that small hose some of the coolant loss on the floor and they need to add more but I was think that maybe one bottle plus water was enough...............So when I ask the mechanic guy, he says he put the 2 bottles and they do not mixed it with water and that this is OK

Here in my country the weather is very hot. I know the G12++ Coolant has to be mixed 50/50..............Can this be my problem that the coolant temperature rise a little.

THX

Isaac

 

[LEE69]

I'm not sure on the genuine coolant, if it needs to be mixed with water or it's ready to go.
Check the writing on the bottle.

 

[Turbo_Boss]

Its says it has to be mixed 50/50..........In other forum some people think is airlock in the system.

How do I bleed the Airlock? Is there is a Step by Step guide?

Can any of you explain how to bleed the system Or point me to a DYI.

THX

Isaac

 

[akchappers]

Should self bleed I think! Ak

 

[LEE69]

Yeah squeeze the pipes to help but no bleed nipples or out like that.

 

[Turbo_Boss]

This is what I will do, open the coolant reservoir cap, start the engine and allow it to get hot so the thermostat open and will squeeze the rubber pipes.

 

[Turbo_Boss]

also, Since the dealer put 2 entire bottles of G12++ without mixing it with water...........I was thinking to remove like a gallon of the water that's it already in the radiator and put only a gallon of distilled water in order to have a 50/50 mix inside the radiator.

What you think guys.

THX,

Isaac

 

[LEE69]

You need an antifreze tester to test the level of protection.

 

[akchappers]

I'd remove it all and do it properly! Even if you have to buy more! Water freezes in you're engine you'll know about it mate!
Ak

 

[Turbo_Boss]

I'd remove it all and do it properly! Even if you have to buy more! Water freezes in you're engine you'll know about it mate!
Ak

I live in Central America, here the weather is always hot So the water will never freeze

Isaac

 

[Muttley]

Researching the effects of antifreeze dilution I came across this thread,

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f77/how-dilute-g12-hotter-conditions-65627.html

- where it's suggested that leaving it too concentrated lowers the boiling point, which is something I suspect you don't want to do in Panama.

I would remove the equivalent volume of one bottle of G12 (500ml? 1 litre? You've got the bottles so you can tell me) and replace it with water. This should correct the dilution enough, assuming it was right before.

However an antifreeze tester might be a good idea if you don't know what the concentration was to start with. In your case you aren't interested in the antifreeze properties so much as the anti-corrosion.


Your engine temperature issues look a bit like the symptoms of a failing water pump. Unfortunately that is difficult to test without a lot of dismantling. It might be possible to feel the water pump impeller if you remove the thermostat, but that would mean draining all the coolant.

 

[Turbo_Boss]

Your engine temperature issues look a bit like the symptoms of a failing water pump. Unfortunately that is difficult to test without a lot of dismantling. It might be possible to feel the water pump impeller if you remove the thermostat, but that would mean draining all the coolant.

Hey Muttley, I know my water pump have a plastic impeller. My car is a 2002 Skoda with 1.8T 20V AGU engine... It only have 55,000 kilometers. I just drives from home to the office and back to home

So you say if I remove the thermostat it might be possible to feel the water pump impeller. I am pretty sure my thermostat location is around the center of the engine. If I Open the hood, the thermostat location is very close to were is the orange tube of the oil dipstick.

Are you sure if I remove the thermostat, I can feel the impeller to check for play or cracks?

If I take the car to the Skoda dealer, can they have a way to check if the Water Pump is the problem without dismantling it? Or do they have a tool to check it?

I was checking the price for a new Skoda Water Pump that also have plastic impeller at the dealer and is US 280.oo + hand labor

I going to check the price for a 06B 121 011 L NOVA brand aftermarket water pump with plastic impeller too. I know here in my country there is a place that sell parts from skopar-com

Thx

Isaac

 

[LEE69]

Yes thermostat is to the left of the engine so removing it you can put your finger in and see if the fins move freely, obviously they shouldn't.

 

[Murdered LCR]

Tbh that sounds to me like a broken /on the way out plastic impella