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DIY Boost leak tester guide
- Thread starter rsmith
- Start date
19mm m8
heres a link
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/19mm-3-4-Allo...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efabe2697
heres a link
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/19mm-3-4-Allo...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efabe2697
Just tried it out
And dont take your dipstick out as this lets to much air escape and i think my pcv system is leaking if not its around there i can hear leaking
And dont take your dipstick out as this lets to much air escape and i think my pcv system is leaking if not its around there i can hear leaking
Right... just tried my tester on the LC and it registered nothing!
Confirmed the gauge does read and there was no sound of air leaks...
MY PCV system has been replaced by a catch can - so do I need to block off the the feed to the tip and the breather off the cam cover?
Confirmed the gauge does read and there was no sound of air leaks...
MY PCV system has been replaced by a catch can - so do I need to block off the the feed to the tip and the breather off the cam cover?
True, i did make a another model for the TIP, you are not really gaining a whole lot of pipework to be tested and its a complete PITA to remove the standard air box if you are running that setup, also its to easy IMO to cause problems to your turbo.
Here are a few pics of the original, i changed it to test from the charge pipe after this as the parts were more freely available(hense why i had to rob part of one of my sons toys to make it
), it was quicker to setup and test and in 90% of the cases the leaks are after the charge pipe.Just adopt the sizes to either 80mm for the LCR or 70mm for the LC's
Finisheddd
@Seat Gooner, nice work, but you should try and mount the valve on the top if you can so you can get more of the test pipe inserted into the boost hose, nice work though.
Hmmm, should be just the rocker you need to block, but if you are not having any sucess block the 2 of them,
@Everyone, please try and put a cold weld or similar around the end of the tester so the jubilee has something to grip onto if it starts to slip out under pressure, i had one blow out at 1.7bar and its nearly scared the beJesus of of me.
I am glad to see some peeps going through the trouble of making this tester, nice work lads, its very rewarding when you put together a nice litter DIY gadget like this as boost leak testing on turbo cars is a must IMO.I had serious trouble with my leaky pipework and garages were looking for stupid money to diagnose them, this is what spurred me to make this tester.
I'll try to keep more of an eye on this thread moving forward to help peeps out if they have problems, i'll been out of the country a lot recently and the rest of the time has been spend getting my car ready for a DIY WMI Devils own stage 2 kit install, roll on water/methanol injestion.
DIY all the way....
It really doesn't matter if you are only gaining 5% more pipework to be tested if that pipework has a boost leak then it gonna screw up your motor and the performance, the airbox is no drama to remove
Please tell me what problems it can cause for the turbo?
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Why thank you very much haven't heard from you for a wile
lol, iv been online every night m8
must add me on facebook.
search for samuel bryant, my profile pic is me in a pink polo with a blue thing around my neck.
True, i did make a another model for the TIP, you are not really gaining a whole lot of pipework to be tested and its a complete PITA to remove the standard air box if you are running that setup, also its to easy IMO to cause problems to your turbo.
Here are a few pics of the original, i changed it to test from the charge pipe after this as the parts were more freely available(hense why i had to rob part of one of my sons toys to make it
Just adopt the sizes to either 80mm for the LCR or 70mm for the LC's
thats good of you rsmith
just to add
my boost leak tester has now found me 4 leaks, these are now sorted and the tester is now holding 1 bar, im on standard map. just to add im sure some of the leaks were there when i bought the car
@Seat Gooner, nice work, but you should try and mount the valve on the top if you can so you can get more of the test pipe inserted into the boost hose, nice work though.
Hmmm, should be just the rocker you need to block, but if you are not having any sucess block the 2 of them,
@Everyone, please try and put a cold weld or similar around the end of the tester so the jubilee has something to grip onto if it starts to slip out under pressure, i had one blow out at 1.7bar and its nearly scared the beJesus of of me.
I am glad to see some peeps going through the trouble of making this tester, nice work lads, its very rewarding when you put together a nice litter DIY gadget like this as boost leak testing on turbo cars is a must IMO.I had serious trouble with my leaky pipework and garages were looking for stupid money to diagnose them, this is what spurred me to make this tester.
I'll try to keep more of an eye on this thread moving forward to help peeps out if they have problems, i'll been out of the country a lot recently and the rest of the time has been spend getting my car ready for a DIY WMI Devils own stage 2 kit install, roll on water/methanol injestion.
DIY all the way....
thats good of you rsmith
my boost leak tester has now found me 4 leaks, these are now sorted and the tester is now holding 1 bar, im on standard map. just to add im sure some of the leaks were there when i bought the car, so now they are sorted should i do a throttle body reset, as the car my have set its self up but including the leaks.
sam
leoncupra666
Guest
Right... only just got in so I could not take the silicon reducer off my FMIC to mock up a pic for you for the standard SMIC. But you will need to buy a slicon recuder 63-51 (e.g. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/63mm-51mm-BLACK-SILICONE-HOSE-REDUCER-VENAIR-SILICON-/310221718321) and connect it to the end of metal intercooler pipe that runs across the back of the cam cover.
If you look at my tester you can see that I have a rubber 63mm joiner with a 63mm end cap. I've drilled two holes in the end for the guage and air valve (both got off ebay). The end cap was couple of quid from the local plumbers shop.
I also got a pipe bung (19mm 3/4 inch) that cost a few pence to block the PCV outlet and used an off cut of 3/4" hose to connect it to the black plastic connector to the TIP.
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