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door seals
- Thread starter frannyb
- Start date
Yeah be about 70 deg lol leave it near a radiator
No, leave the two top bolts in, but loosened
No, leave the two top bolts in, but loosened
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I don't understand how I will seal the top doing that (also bearing in mind i have to get the old stuff off). Also I didn't want to yank the locking assembley(if that's connected) as I disconnected it on last car and never worked properly after that.
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You don't seal the top 
you seal as high as you can reach.
The problems are usually the lower half of the panel.
you seal as high as you can reach.The problems are usually the lower half of the panel.
I agree with Lee, I only went up halfway round the panel, even though I had removed the panel in the end. With the panel off I could see what needed to be replaced, as well as the three colours of silicon that previous owners had used that had all failed!!
With regards to the temperature, I'd just leave it in a warm room rather than specifically on a radiator. I found that as it warms up, it gets more pliable but it also gets stickier. Which is good when it's the door panel that it's sticking to, not so good when it's sticking to everything else as well!! Just room temperature seemed enough to make it pliable and tacky enough to stay in place.
With regards to the temperature, I'd just leave it in a warm room rather than specifically on a radiator. I found that as it warms up, it gets more pliable but it also gets stickier. Which is good when it's the door panel that it's sticking to, not so good when it's sticking to everything else as well!! Just room temperature seemed enough to make it pliable and tacky enough to stay in place.
I used the Butyl seal on mine and the door sills are still wet sometimes if it has rained overnight. Carpets are all dry though
Check your speaker and the holes in the door what hold the door card onI used the Butyl seal on mine and the door sills are still wet sometimes if it has rained overnight. Carpets are all dry though
Yeah, well, it's sticky on every surface.
Stick it where you find it easier.
Thanks for the good info and eBay link
I had a garage do mine recently with Tiger seal silicone all round. I don't think they did a great job though, as 2 doors still leak (only a bit now though) and there is a bit of water outside the door, on the black plastic under the drain holes on the driver's door (whereas before there was loads of water here!).
I'm thinking to do all the doors with butyl seal myself with the eBay butyl.
How much time should it take to do each door?
The guide on here for siliconing says around half an hour per hour, so does a conservative estimate of 3 hours for 4 doors with butyl sound do-able?
Cheers
I had a garage do mine recently with Tiger seal silicone all round. I don't think they did a great job though, as 2 doors still leak (only a bit now though) and there is a bit of water outside the door, on the black plastic under the drain holes on the driver's door (whereas before there was loads of water here!).
I'm thinking to do all the doors with butyl seal myself with the eBay butyl.
How much time should it take to do each door?
The guide on here for siliconing says around half an hour per hour, so does a conservative estimate of 3 hours for 4 doors with butyl sound do-able?
Cheers
That sounds about right for all four doors, possibly a bit longer if you have to do a lot of cleaning up before you can reseal the doors. I spent more time removing old silicone than I did stripping and rebuilding the door!
Hi peeps mee too!im waitin till iget a day when it's not gunna rain 4 few days (dont kno when that'll b
) 2remove door card &wash inner panel(degrease)let it dry then seal it up hopefully want few dry days to let sealant stuff setYou don't need to with the butyl sealant, as it doesn't 'set'. The surfaces should be dry when you apply it, but as soon as you put it back together it should be watertight.
Spent ll day doing mine, seats out, carpet up, sound deadening out to dry, heaters in car to dry it out, new crash sensor fitted. All 4 doors done with butyl strip (much easier than thought). Whilst interior was in bits fully valleted interior.
Then reassembled and mooved on to possible leak on bulkhead, i dont suspect mine to be leaking, but didnt want to risk it now my interior is bone dry. Removed scuttle and cleaned out, couldnt decide on what to use to seal the area, so painted seam and electrics box in thick waxoyl, pasted it on like it was tar, should hopefully give me many happy dry years of motoring!
Also cleaned window seals (at bottom of window outside) window is now cleaned when it goes up and down, should prevent loads of water entering door.
Then reassembled and mooved on to possible leak on bulkhead, i dont suspect mine to be leaking, but didnt want to risk it now my interior is bone dry. Removed scuttle and cleaned out, couldnt decide on what to use to seal the area, so painted seam and electrics box in thick waxoyl, pasted it on like it was tar, should hopefully give me many happy dry years of motoring!
Also cleaned window seals (at bottom of window outside) window is now cleaned when it goes up and down, should prevent loads of water entering door.
Well it's rained slightly and no waterfalls. Slight shine on a sill where water has drained out but looking good. Will have to see what it's like after a day of rain. It was easier than I thought it would be and the whole job took about 40 mins. I think I might have a large grommet missing from the skin tho as there was an empty hole.
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