Bonzeny
Guest
I will try again tomorrow and see if can make it work. Yes I bought a new complete lock from eBay... so can I try that drilling method? How do I know where to drill/cut...I assume the drilling or cutting of the frame is to allow access to the gold torx screw and undoing that will unlock the door?? Thank you so much for help.
LEE69 - thank you for guide! It's great but my door was and is locked shut so could not access the two 8mm triple square bolts on the edge of the door that secure the lock to car door and had to follow above guide to get at lock whilst door is closed. Thank you though has some very useful pictures.
RARRRRRRRRR.........this is annoying cannot find the damn thing!
Cannot even find a head on shot of the innerds of the door
Cannot even find a head on shot of the innerds of the door
Bonzeny
Guest
Fixed it
Ok so I managed to make it work! Cupratune is correct it can take HOURS to do BUT with patient and determination you can completely finish in an hour or two. I also took the opportunity with the door taken apart to redo the seals in the door - I strongly suggest doing this in order to prevent future problems with condensation or more lock failures.
Follow Cupratune's guide copied below, BUT when you get to point 13 you don't have to drill or cut away any part of the frame. You can do it doing 13c - you can! Just be patient!!!
For more info about point 13 read this:
The nylon clip he is on about is in the first picture he linked in his guide, its the white nylon/plastic part (that looks more yellow in my car) HOWEVER you don't want to push on this nylon part you want to try to push upwards the metal part below it that the nylon part is connected to. Push as hard and as far as it will push up (this is turning it anticlockwise). This is unlocking the door! Once you cannot pushing it round anymore trying pushing on the nylon clip in same fashion...Now try pulling the cable attached lock that normally is connected to your handle or try pulling the outside handle...this should unlock the car door and it should open!!!...
If this does not work look at the other side off the lock towards where the outside handle is connected. There is a gold metal latch that the outside handle door cable is connected to and towards the bottom to the left of it there is a small silver metal spring here that you can push to the right over little hook in the latch in to a grove in the gold metal latch ...this should make it difficult to pull the latch outwards (to the right) now pull outside handle and this should open the door...
most important thing here is making sure the gold piece of metal connected to the nylon clip is pushed as far upwards/anticlockwise as possible...you really have to push very hard here...make sure your pushing on the metal bit...
sorry if this is confusing I wanted to take pictures of the process but I am not allowed to post images until I have posted 15 times!!
For redoing the seals I just bought £7.50 Stormguard EPDM Rubber E-Profile - Brown - 10m
Product no. 109493 from homebase...
I bought my new lock from eBay delivered for £40
I also bought car door clips from ebay for £5 or so as you might need to replace a few when replacing the door card.
I also bought some plastic araldite glue to repair broken clip from removing the wing mirror...
This really is possible to do yourself just start on one sunny saturday or sunday morning and you should be done before lunch!
This is Cupertune's guide I followed...
1) Pop the plastic cover from the inside handle and unscrew the screws and unhook the door handle
2) pull trim thats below the speaker and then pull the longer length of trim attached
3) Push seat fully back and undo the 2 torx screw in the bottom of the door
4) Now grab the door card from the bottom near the speak and work towards the column(lock side), this should pop off.
5) Give it a tug until the panel can left up.....yes there is sweet fa space but stick with it.....now you need to get the cover off from the side mirror, you might break 1 clip on this but hey it happens.
6) Once thats out now you move the card around until you can get enough space to get the unit free may take a while but relax and slowly wiggle it just a little bit, detach the cables for the light in door and pop it out along with the window switch.......reattach the window switch as you will need this again.
7) Now you should have the card out of the way and the metal section will be visible.
8) Lower the window so the carrier bolts are visible and duct tape front to back through the back window........unscrew the bolts just so that the holder seperates and not to the point where it falls apart! might need to buy some new clips 1 of mine are screwed but superglue is my friend for the moment.
9) Unscrew the bolts holding the metal skin in place
10) Pull all of the wires off from this panel
11) Remove the plastic caps from the door mech unit
12) Now loosen the unit by freeing the unit seal a couple of pulls might help, once this is down left the unit from the bottom, push up and pull towards you........this yet again is a pain so slowly move it once the bottom is from pull the unit down and pull the window mech free.
13) once that is out of the way you will now see the door mech and this is where you have a couple of choices!
c) a thin long screw driver or a nokia cover remover which is a metal bar with a small point end, push this through the gap below the nylon clip that will be visible and push hard up.....this is the unit........nylon clip & screw at top is what im on about
Ok so I managed to make it work! Cupratune is correct it can take HOURS to do BUT with patient and determination you can completely finish in an hour or two. I also took the opportunity with the door taken apart to redo the seals in the door - I strongly suggest doing this in order to prevent future problems with condensation or more lock failures.
Follow Cupratune's guide copied below, BUT when you get to point 13 you don't have to drill or cut away any part of the frame. You can do it doing 13c - you can! Just be patient!!!
For more info about point 13 read this:
The nylon clip he is on about is in the first picture he linked in his guide, its the white nylon/plastic part (that looks more yellow in my car) HOWEVER you don't want to push on this nylon part you want to try to push upwards the metal part below it that the nylon part is connected to. Push as hard and as far as it will push up (this is turning it anticlockwise). This is unlocking the door! Once you cannot pushing it round anymore trying pushing on the nylon clip in same fashion...Now try pulling the cable attached lock that normally is connected to your handle or try pulling the outside handle...this should unlock the car door and it should open!!!...
If this does not work look at the other side off the lock towards where the outside handle is connected. There is a gold metal latch that the outside handle door cable is connected to and towards the bottom to the left of it there is a small silver metal spring here that you can push to the right over little hook in the latch in to a grove in the gold metal latch ...this should make it difficult to pull the latch outwards (to the right) now pull outside handle and this should open the door...
most important thing here is making sure the gold piece of metal connected to the nylon clip is pushed as far upwards/anticlockwise as possible...you really have to push very hard here...make sure your pushing on the metal bit...
sorry if this is confusing I wanted to take pictures of the process but I am not allowed to post images until I have posted 15 times!!
For redoing the seals I just bought £7.50 Stormguard EPDM Rubber E-Profile - Brown - 10m
Product no. 109493 from homebase...
I bought my new lock from eBay delivered for £40
I also bought car door clips from ebay for £5 or so as you might need to replace a few when replacing the door card.
I also bought some plastic araldite glue to repair broken clip from removing the wing mirror...
This really is possible to do yourself just start on one sunny saturday or sunday morning and you should be done before lunch!
This is Cupertune's guide I followed...
1) Pop the plastic cover from the inside handle and unscrew the screws and unhook the door handle
2) pull trim thats below the speaker and then pull the longer length of trim attached
3) Push seat fully back and undo the 2 torx screw in the bottom of the door
4) Now grab the door card from the bottom near the speak and work towards the column(lock side), this should pop off.
5) Give it a tug until the panel can left up.....yes there is sweet fa space but stick with it.....now you need to get the cover off from the side mirror, you might break 1 clip on this but hey it happens.
6) Once thats out now you move the card around until you can get enough space to get the unit free may take a while but relax and slowly wiggle it just a little bit, detach the cables for the light in door and pop it out along with the window switch.......reattach the window switch as you will need this again.
7) Now you should have the card out of the way and the metal section will be visible.
8) Lower the window so the carrier bolts are visible and duct tape front to back through the back window........unscrew the bolts just so that the holder seperates and not to the point where it falls apart! might need to buy some new clips 1 of mine are screwed but superglue is my friend for the moment.
9) Unscrew the bolts holding the metal skin in place
10) Pull all of the wires off from this panel
11) Remove the plastic caps from the door mech unit
12) Now loosen the unit by freeing the unit seal a couple of pulls might help, once this is down left the unit from the bottom, push up and pull towards you........this yet again is a pain so slowly move it once the bottom is from pull the unit down and pull the window mech free.
13) once that is out of the way you will now see the door mech and this is where you have a couple of choices!
c) a thin long screw driver or a nokia cover remover which is a metal bar with a small point end, push this through the gap below the nylon clip that will be visible and push hard up.....this is the unit........nylon clip & screw at top is what im on about
Finally i feel useful in Life! Glad its sorted was going to get pics this week, i got annoyed with mine so cut a section out.....i'm just going to sealant the panel in place on mine as everything has been repalced, just a note i think my issue initially was related to the double click on remote think my wiring has a short as it only went bad after that time.....then i killed the second one but fingers cross i remember not to double click.
offitmassive
Guest
I have issues with nsr door, sometimes ity opens, others not, but i hear the lock unlocking every time, it just wont open. so had a go at taking door card off. wouldnt open from outside, but did this time from inside. got the door latch separated, and was hoping for some broken soldering, but the pic and write up on vwvortex is different to what i got. and couldnt find/see any broken solder... when you take the plastic cap of on the end of the door to gain access to the outer door handle screw, the little plastic cap u need to remove has adjustments doesnt it. im wondering if the cable has stretched slightly??
CMAC30
Guest
My cupra r has startid doing this, wont unlock off the key but will open from the inside, i was very lucky as i had the child lock on and it took me an hour too get it too unlock and get the childlock off!!
Rear window
I've just spent a few hours changing a rear door lock on my '04 Leon. I had checked out a couple of very thorough guides for front locks but couldn't work out how to get the glass out of the rear as it's different. This seatcupra.net thread filled in the blanks 'showthread.php?t=254495' and may just of saved me from torching the car. I did have the benefit of being able to open the door as I caught it at a time when the deadlock had released but have still spent 4:30hrs today and still have to put the door card etc back on. Hope not to have to again.
I've just spent a few hours changing a rear door lock on my '04 Leon. I had checked out a couple of very thorough guides for front locks but couldn't work out how to get the glass out of the rear as it's different. This seatcupra.net thread filled in the blanks 'showthread.php?t=254495' and may just of saved me from torching the car. I did have the benefit of being able to open the door as I caught it at a time when the deadlock had released but have still spent 4:30hrs today and still have to put the door card etc back on. Hope not to have to again.
will this work if your door wont open from the inside or outside? at the moment my front door and passenger rear wont open from inside our outside?
Seagu11
Guest
Hi Spiff, did you get the rear door sorted? Just bought a leon and the passenger side rear door is stuck shut. Have you managed to sort it without being able to open the door?
I left the car for a few hrs. Give the handle a wack and it has been fine since! Just keep locking and unlockong the car and see what happens!
Biggybee
Guest
Hi
I managed to change the central locking unit and the door now opens and closes with the external handle but does not lock using the key fob, I have not yet replaced all the door card and other connectors etc, would this be preventing the central locking working or should it work with just the one connector plugged back into the bottom of the central locking unit?
I didn't want to replace all the door card etc if there was still a fault.
Any help appreciated!
I managed to change the central locking unit and the door now opens and closes with the external handle but does not lock using the key fob, I have not yet replaced all the door card and other connectors etc, would this be preventing the central locking working or should it work with just the one connector plugged back into the bottom of the central locking unit?
I didn't want to replace all the door card etc if there was still a fault.
Any help appreciated!
Just to say mine is doing this on drivers side rear now 
banging it sometimes makes it work.
Obviously a loose connection, if its the solder joins as shown in the vortex guide I'll have to let the garage do it, I am hoping its just a lose connector that I can fix.
Shame as the car has done well for some time to this point after a dreadful start.
Seasons greetings everyone
banging it sometimes makes it work.Obviously a loose connection, if its the solder joins as shown in the vortex guide I'll have to let the garage do it, I am hoping its just a lose connector that I can fix.
Shame as the car has done well for some time to this point after a dreadful start.
Seasons greetings everyone
OK, well I had the card off and checked out what I could, seems it will lock every time via key fob but won't unlock except via door handle inside??? does this mean it needs a new mech?Will have to let JKM do it next visit
Bufger
Guest
I think im in the worst position here - BOTH rear doors wont open from inside or out. They're completely jammed shut
Is there anybody on here that has successfully done this on a door that wont open? is there a step by step guide for it?
I'm willing to buy the parts and pay someone cash in hand on here if they can do this for me as im useless with cars. Coventry area
Is there anybody on here that has successfully done this on a door that wont open? is there a step by step guide for it?
I'm willing to buy the parts and pay someone cash in hand on here if they can do this for me as im useless with cars. Coventry area
my rear offside door is stuck shut too now. outside handle lifts with no resistance. inside handle lifts a bit but gets really stiff and feels like something will break if i keep pulling.
really not looking forward to trying to take the door card off a shut door...
really not looking forward to trying to take the door card off a shut door...
Ritey,
Have a read of this link (it even references this link you have added to and resurected)
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=407397
I had to use a hammer and chisel and a lot of sweat to break into my lock from inside the door, following the guides in this thread to get to that stage, to finally release it to open, then I could remove and replace it.
Locks on these ar common problem and ideally need sorting if there are any early warning signs before it locks fully like mine and yours have.
I bought my replacement as a new after market part on Ebay - cant remember the seller but it was cheap £25 ish and has worked perfectly since.
hope this helps and good luck - Having been through it I dont envy you, but keep at it.
Moz
Have a read of this link (it even references this link you have added to and resurected)
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=407397
I had to use a hammer and chisel and a lot of sweat to break into my lock from inside the door, following the guides in this thread to get to that stage, to finally release it to open, then I could remove and replace it.
Locks on these ar common problem and ideally need sorting if there are any early warning signs before it locks fully like mine and yours have.
I bought my replacement as a new after market part on Ebay - cant remember the seller but it was cheap £25 ish and has worked perfectly since.
hope this helps and good luck - Having been through it I dont envy you, but keep at it.
Moz
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