EGR Delete causing low power?

[jamescupra1]

Uh the vaccume lines control everything on these cars. Put a few quid in ya tank fly down a bypass in 3rd 4th gear at 3-4 thousand revs and it should kick out the build up of sit on the Vgt. Another way to test is take off your cover under your engine and move the actuator manually and check for resistance

 

[kelford1988]

I don't think it is the actual vnt mech as it was working perfectly till I fitted the egr delete. So it is obviously something I've done wrong which makes me think it is a vac line I could have damaged if it controls the amount of boost.
Has anyone replaced the vac lines before?

 

[jamescupra1]

What is vac line? The lines coming off the black box?

 

[kelford1988]

As far as I'm aware yea. I can't figure out though the route which links it to the turbo. There is two I can't trace one near to the airbox which I think is the brake servo and one that run along the inlet to somewhere I cannot see. Is this the one I should replace with my boost issues?

 

[jamescupra1]

The 1 on the inlet goes to the turbo

 

[kelford1988]

Cheers think I'll get some new vac line and do the vac line simplification at the weekend.

 

[kelford1988]

Right I'm certain the problem is vac related as when I remove the front face of the unit there is no purge of air rushing in. But I've replaced the turbo and servo lines and scrapped everything else. What am I doing wrong? as this is driving me mad.

 

[themikey]

Right I'm certain the problem is vac related as when I remove the front face of the unit there is no purge of air rushing in. But I've replaced the turbo and servo lines and scrapped everything else. What am I doing wrong? as this is driving me mad.

have you tried a different map sensor? or is there any breaks in the wire? and have you checked that the actuator on the turbo is working properly?

 

[kelford1988]

Vacuum is being requested as I can feel sucking on the end of the airbox pipe. It is some how failing to reach the turbo. Might unplug that pipe and see if I can feel sucking. If I can then am I right in thinking the vnt is kaput?
The mikey I haven't tried any of that. How would I check the turbo actuator? I don't think it would be a map sensor or break in the wire as it only occurred after I was messing to fit the egr. Is there anyway I can check these without replacing them and hoping?

 

[jamescupra1]

You can move the actuator manually with you hand to see if its movin freely throughout the required range. If you move the actuator the fully open put your finger on top of the nipple where the pipe goes onto actuator to block the air off and if the actuator goes back into the off position then the actuators seal has had it and you will require a new 1. If it doesn't move quite abit then your vanes are blocked and you can free them up by driving it hard throughout the gears wich removes the sutt deposits from between the vanes

 

[kelford1988]

Not quite sure I understand you James. If the actuator goes into the resting position the seal has gone? If it doesn't move the vanes are stuck? What would happen then if nothing is wrong?

 

[jamescupra1]

If nothin was wrong your car would be workin lol. Put the actuator into fully open (not resting position) put your finger over the hole where the air line goes on, create a seal with your finger covering the hole and let it go whilst your finger is stil over the hole! If it retracts to resting position then your actuator is nackerd look on youtube if you don't understand what I'm trying to say lol

 

[kelford1988]

Haha that's true I was meaning though if there is nothing wrong with the turbo then surely when I keep a seal it will not move. The comment about it not moving due to vanes being stuck is what confused me.

 

[jamescupra1]

Search youtube at sticking Vgt and actuator testin it will give you an idea of what to do

 

[stew002]

Have you checked all your vac pipes with a mityvac? Only need a pin hole or small crack in a pipe for it to not boost fully. Also did you say you moved the vac pipes? if so have you reconnected them back to where thy should be, not got any mixed up and on wrong way round? Sounds daft but we've all done it!

 

[kelford1988]

@stew
I replaced all the vac lines and believe they are connected up as they was, if you check the vac box it has numbers on it and i've connected them up as follows
1 = servo
2 = egr
3 = asv
4 = airbox
5 = vac reservoir
6 = turbo
Can anyone confirm that is correct?

No closer to pinning the problem down. Think you could be right james about the vanes being stuck though as even with no boost I can hear the turbo whistle louder than usual. Which would make me think they are stuck open. Strange how it has just happend though, and it could be a placebo with me clutching at straws.

 

[Razzario]

Haven't dropped the o ring seal out of the delete pipe when fitting have you? Ill check my vac box connections in the morning if someone hasn't beaten me to it by then.

 

[jamescupra1]

Number 2 and 3 should be blanked off with bolts and jubilee clips. Do you have any oil leaking anywhere around the boost pipes or under the car?

 

[Razzario]

Ive got

6 - Turbo
5 - Vac reservoir
4 - Servo
3 - Blank
2 - Blank
1 - Air filter

Which would indicate that if you have the servo line in the wrong port that there'd be no vacuum for anything? perhaps simulating sticky vnt. You appear to have 4 and one swapped over.

 

[kelford1988]

Cheers razzario I'll try that though the problem was there before I messed them vac lines up so I've still a problem to sort.
Had a fault code reader on it and the fault is charge pressure control negative deviation.. As I'm certain it isn't the vacuum pipes leaking I am convincing myself open vanes on the turbo would lead to this lower than expected charge pressure. Anyone else got any ideas?