muddyboots said:
Its action will be so lightly it would be the same as if it didn't work,,,
http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-7.html#j - End sentence of 2nd paragraph.
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EGR disabling - Another way to do it?
- Thread starter Altealover
- Start date
Its action will be so lightly it would be the same as if it didn't work,,,
http://tdiclub.com/TDIFAQ/TDiFAQ-7.html#j - End sentence of 2nd paragraph.
basstard said:Altea, alway glad to discuss about cars,,,
Glad you think so, and visa versa of course
muddyboots said:
Once I get my car fixed under warranty (turbo dead according to garage, 30.000k), I will do some Vag-com readings to see if fueling/timing and pressure etc. is different when car has the EGR turned down.
If in fact it is, then it surely would be best to let the ECU know, that EGR is turned down, so it will selfadjust the other parameters accordingly.
Ultimate EGR fix
Take a look at how one innovative TDI owner permanently solved the clogged-EGR problem.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=713116&page=&fpart=all&vc=1
Note, however, that in one of the last messages in this thread, there is a disclaimer that the Stealth Race Pipe may not work for PD engines. It _might_ work, it's just that no one tried it that I know of. Theoretically it should work.
Take a look at how one innovative TDI owner permanently solved the clogged-EGR problem.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=713116&page=&fpart=all&vc=1
Note, however, that in one of the last messages in this thread, there is a disclaimer that the Stealth Race Pipe may not work for PD engines. It _might_ work, it's just that no one tried it that I know of. Theoretically it should work.
TornadoRed said:
The EGR system is excactly the same on the 1.9 PD when talking about the EGR house and it's functionality.
It's a nice job the guy did, but the valve release arm is really not so restrictive that you would gain anything from removing it. I would still prefer to disable the EGR through the 3 earlier mentioned options, because you have the choice of going back if you need to.
basstard said:
So yesterday I finally surrendered
I took my EGR off and cleaned it, and because I didn't want it getting dirty again and still didn't want my dealer to find out about it, I decided to go for....hrrm.... the vacum block option
Then I did some driving and vag-com testing with the airflow both at original settings and adjusted. I couldn't feel or find any difference with the car or vag-com though.
I left the airflow @ 350 mg/str (350 is max on my engine for some reason, not 370) because the actual airflow was about 450 mg/str and I figured the closer to actual airflow the specified value would be, the better. Kinda the same theory Muddy gave earlier.
I think the ECU will do it's job much better if the specified values are as close to the actual values as possible....
Altealover said:I took my EGR off and cleaned it, and because I didn't want it getting dirty again and still didn't want my dealer to find out about it, I decided to go for....hrrm.... the vacum block option
(350 is max on my engine for some reason, not 370)
What was your chosen method - nail, or lump of plastic ?
I turned my settings down on vagcom on Friday, mine went to 350 too.
I presume this figure, which seems to be in units of mg/R, is the amount of exhaust that gets recirculated into the inlet ? If I'm right then lower figures are better.
basstard -> It's a bit early to tell if it's solved my lumpy idle, because some days it idles smoothly anyway. I also got carried away on vagcom and started twiddling with idle speed, and after playing to see how low I could get it, I think I finished with it slightly higher than standard (set to 940rpm now, think it was 903 standard). That might make it seem less lumpy too; we'll see.
muddyboots said:
Actually a M6X20 bolt screws into the tube quite nicely and stays there
The Mg/str (Milligram per stroke) is mass airflow @ idle as far as I now, that is why the actual airflow is much higher than specified, with the EGR disabled = It sucks in much more fresh air and so the MAF readings are higher.
So when you set the specified value higher with Vag-com the ECU will allow more fresh air and less exhaust gas. That is how the Vag-com mod works.
Since my EGR is completely disabled the actual airflow is around 450 Mg/str @ idle, so in theory you could say that the Vag-com mod alone would allow 350 Mg/str of fresh air and 100 Mg/str of exhaust gas, whereas the vacum pipe mod allows 450 Mg/str of fresh air and no exhaust gas.
This is illustrating the difference between the Vag-com mod and the mechanical mod.
Muddy your lumpy idle is more likely to have somthing to do with injection timing.
Is it constant during idle (when it happens) or is it like a sporadic shudder from the engine?
Mine does the sporadic shudder (before mod too), but I have been told it's normal for a diesel. I still think it's related to the injection timing though.
Unfortunately you need the workshop manual to fiddle with that (see TdiClub FAQ), doing the mechanical adjustment is definitely not for me
The lumpy idle is either there or it's not, if the car's sat idling it doesn't go in and out of lumpiness if that makes sense...!Altealover said:Muddy your lumpy idle is more likely to have somthing to do with injection timing.
Is it constant during idle (when it happens) or is it like a sporadic shudder from the engine?
Mine does the sporadic shudder (before mod too), but I have been told it's normal for a diesel. I still think it's related to the injection timing though.
Unfortunately you need the workshop manual to fiddle with that (see TdiClub FAQ), doing the mechanical adjustment is definitely not for me
Some days it's really smooth, others a bit lumpy. Thing is - what I describe as lumpy might be quite smooth to someone else, it's not really that bad, just causes a bit of gearbox chatter sometimes.
I think it's a fairly common "feature" so i don't think there's anything really untoward going on.
What I have noticed though, is that with the very *slightest* touch of the accelerator - so gentle the revs don't rise - the lumpiness goes away and idles perfectly.
I think the "mechanical" adjustment, aka hammer mod, is only for non-PD engines...with the PDs it would all be done electronically but I doubt I'll mess with it.
muddyboots said:
From what you describe it definitely sounds like a small deviation in the injection timing, or it's time for a new fuel filter.
If you trust you garage you can ask them to check the timing and make the necessarry adjustments when it goes in for service the next time. With the manual it should be a ten minute job (I sure would pay good money for a workshop manual for the PD 130
).If thats the problem and it's corrected you might even experience the engine being a little more fresh and less hesitative
Have you tried logging injection timing and fuel capacity @ idle via Vag-com?
If you make a graph from your readings, then the lumpiness should show itself as spiky deviations for one of the sensors. It might help you locate the cause for the lumpiness.
the hammer mod has to do with the quantity of fuel pumped by the fuel pump and it's a fuel pump mod [or should I better say a tweak].
While I guess the timing of injection has something to do with the ecu maps,,, am I missing something?
While I guess the timing of injection has something to do with the ecu maps,,, am I missing something?
basstard said:
Sounds about right, details are @ TdiClub FAQ about Injection Quantity
But I'm talking about the electronic adjustments (yes ECU maps). Timing and quantity could be adjusted through Vag-com if you had the correct tabels from the work manual.
The difference between that and actual remapping is; when remapping you can adjust all the parameters allthrough the rev range, but the simple timing adjustments from the manual are done @ idle only. -Duh, of course you all know that already
muddyboots said:
Yes the adjustment does not work for the PDs sorry for suggesting that one
We have a combined vacum and fuel pump on the PD 130 and it's controlled 100%electronicly.
mwragg
Guest
Hi there
I was just reading your idea of 'disabling' the egr by blocking the pipe that links the exhaust pipe to the inlet tract. Please can you let me know if you have found out anything further. I have seen on the Ross Tech web site at http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html that, despite what many people on the forum are saying, you cannot turn off/down the egr with VAG-COM on PD engines.
I have an Ibiza Cupra TDI and today tried blocking the egr vacuum pipe, however, just after 10 miles I got a CEL and it felt as though max torque was slightly less (especially noticeable in 4/5/6th). So the ECU realised the egr was not working and (maybe) reduced turbo boost.
If your method works it is clever because that means the ECU only knows whether the egr is working because of pressure variations in the vacuum pipe, rather than (as most people seem to think) learning from the MAF that too much air is coming through the inlet when the egr is supposed to be working.
Anyway, that's it. Any advice you could give me would be great!!
I was just reading your idea of 'disabling' the egr by blocking the pipe that links the exhaust pipe to the inlet tract. Please can you let me know if you have found out anything further. I have seen on the Ross Tech web site at http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html that, despite what many people on the forum are saying, you cannot turn off/down the egr with VAG-COM on PD engines.
I have an Ibiza Cupra TDI and today tried blocking the egr vacuum pipe, however, just after 10 miles I got a CEL and it felt as though max torque was slightly less (especially noticeable in 4/5/6th). So the ECU realised the egr was not working and (maybe) reduced turbo boost.
If your method works it is clever because that means the ECU only knows whether the egr is working because of pressure variations in the vacuum pipe, rather than (as most people seem to think) learning from the MAF that too much air is coming through the inlet when the egr is supposed to be working.
Anyway, that's it. Any advice you could give me would be great!!
I have a 1.9TDI and have had the clogged ERG, which I cleaned out, but as I do a lot of traffic crawling to work, I decided to mod the valve.
Having read many posts about blocking vacuum, turning down on Vagcom (which I do not have access to) I decided to simply stop the exhaust gas getting to the inlet.
I took of the link pipe and gaskets and then using the gasket as a template made a 2mm thick ally blanking plate. Then reassembled with this at the valve(cooler) end. Have had no waring lights or any other problems, and the car does not clog so badly on the commute.
To me I now have a slightly smoother pick up. The only downside is that the car takes longer to warm up on very cold mornings which does affect the fuel consumption on these weeks.
There have been many long discussions about this mod and all the ways people implement it work. It seems to depend on the engine type as to whether error messages are recorded.
Having read many posts about blocking vacuum, turning down on Vagcom (which I do not have access to) I decided to simply stop the exhaust gas getting to the inlet.
I took of the link pipe and gaskets and then using the gasket as a template made a 2mm thick ally blanking plate. Then reassembled with this at the valve(cooler) end. Have had no waring lights or any other problems, and the car does not clog so badly on the commute.
To me I now have a slightly smoother pick up. The only downside is that the car takes longer to warm up on very cold mornings which does affect the fuel consumption on these weeks.
There have been many long discussions about this mod and all the ways people implement it work. It seems to depend on the engine type as to whether error messages are recorded.
mwragg
Guest
Your blocked egr
Just read your message about blocking egr link pipe to disable egr. You say that, having done that, you have no warning lights...please would you let me know what year/model car you have?
Just read your message about blocking egr link pipe to disable egr. You say that, having done that, you have no warning lights...please would you let me know what year/model car you have?
In other posts he mentions a TDI 110 Toledo, a non-PD engine. I've had a TDI 90 and a TDI 110, disabled the EGR in both by disconnecting the electrical connector to the N18 control valve, and have no warning lights show up. But these are slightly older ECU's. I'm pretty sure that will cause the CEL to light up on a PD engine.
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