dazjstuart

Active Member
May 18, 2012
660
8
Aberdeen
Hi Guys,

I finally got my knock off VAGCOM from ebay so plugged it in and read the codes. I have been suffering from what I am assuming is a boost leak for months but never got round to doing anything about it, I wanted to scan the car first too to see if that shed any light. I have written on here before about my symptoms but I'll summarise again.

The car has always been a bit down on power at higher revs, like you loose all boost at higher revs but if I lift off the throttle and put it down again the boost returned for a surge before disappearing again. This didnt bother me that much and I wasnt in a bit rush to get it fixed. However a few weeks ago it started doing this at much lower revs, like less than 3k which is annoying. You put the foot down and it boosts then it drops off, you can hear the DV dumping even though my foot is hard down.

I have been assuming it is something to do with those pesky little pipes under the inlet manifold, but due to work and the old ball and chain needing the car for her work I havent had time to do anything about it.

It's worth noting that I have changed the standard DV for a Forge 008, changed the N75 for a new (standard) one and done the N249 bypass, none of which has made any difference. I'll cut to the chase, heres the codes it threw up.

17963 - Charge Pressure: Maximum Limit Exceeded

08 Auto HVAC
3 Faults Found:
00785 - Temp Sensor in Instrument Panel (G56)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
01206 - Signal for Duration of Ignition Off Time
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

15 - Airbags
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

00931 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Rear Right (F223)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Not that bothered about the others, the one of interest is obviously the boost pressure exceeded one. Does that mean that the car is going into limp mode and thats why its not boosting properly? Could it still be a boost leak?

Any ideas are very welcome!

Cheers
 
Clear the codes and re-scan it.
Some of the codes may be old faults that haven't been cleared.

+1
I had a huge list and eml light after 20 miles of driving it home,Didnt notice any running problems so carried on...Got it home and used a Handheld off ebay,Removed all the codes and dont have the eml light up since(touch wood)

But i still have a Boost leak,Ive done a visual check but think a Intake pressure test is required with soapy water

Keep us posted how your findings go
 
I had mine smoke tested which showed 4 leaks, 1x boost and 3x vac.

For the cost of having it done verses the reassurance of knowing the system is sound its worth it... plus if you've still got problems at least you can narrow things down better
 
I had mine smoke tested which showed 4 leaks, 1x boost and 3x vac.

For the cost of having it done verses the reassurance of knowing the system is sound its worth it... plus if you've still got problems at least you can narrow things down better

Nice one,How much did it cost..Very effective from what i can see on youtube
If its leaking boost it aint doing its job and costing more to run...
 
I think it was 60. They ran it several times as once you fix a leak the next weakest point shows up.

The boost leak I`d have never of found due to where it was and the vac leaks were a sod due to being under the inlet mani.
Saved me a day of work and I still wouldnt have been confident.
:)
 
I think it was 60. They ran it several times as once you fix a leak the next weakest point shows up.

The boost leak I`d have never of found due to where it was and the vac leaks were a sod due to being under the inlet mani.
Saved me a day of work and I still wouldnt have been confident.
:)

Cracking news,Im going to phone round a few places where ive takin my Sports cars in the past...This is the only Turbo car ive had problems with
 
I had mine smoke tested which showed 4 leaks, 1x boost and 3x vac.

For the cost of having it done verses the reassurance of knowing the system is sound its worth it... plus if you've still got problems at least you can narrow things down better

Yeah I'm going to get that done, I just wanted to get the codes read first in case that shed some light, I was getting the VAGCOM anyway. Out of interest were your symptoms anything like mine as described above?

I cleared the codes and the same ones came back again.

Any ideas on the overboost code? I am going to put back on my old N75 valve and see what happens then as there was nothing wrong with it and the new one might be a dud, its an OEM one though so it shouldnt be...
 
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Right, done a spot of logging this afternoon. I cleared the codes that came up before last night (see above) the only ones that came back were the overboost one (17963) and the one with the temp sensor open to positive or whatever. Not caring about that one as the aircon works fine.

Since the last post I have given the car a good inspection for cracked pipes etc (all boost pipes and below the inlet manifold) and found nothing, I also tried my old N75 valve back on which made no difference.

I cleared the codes that came up before last night (thought I had done them before but I wasn't doing it properly on vagcom). When I took it for a spin prior to running the logs today I found that whilst the boost was still awful it wasnt as bad as it has been recently, it threw up the 17963 code again which I cleared again and ran the logs.

I did measuring blocks 115, 118 and 002 so I have data on the airflow and N75 cycle too but I have only graphed the boost just now. I did two runs, both in 3rd gear, the first was at WOT, the second at like half to 3/4 throttle. Heres the graphs anyway... No idea if these are any good, I will be doing some more logs tomorrow.

Boost1_zpsf3a9c96c.jpg


Boost2_zps859a6cbc.jpg


As you can see the error code is right enough, it is well overboosting. The requested boost looks fine (I think) for a standard AUQ 180 at 6 - 7 psi, I thought if anything it should be slightly higher than that. However it is spikes at around 18 on both runs then fluctuates, the fluctuations are accompanied by hearing the DV dump boost. The N75 duty (whatever that means) doesnt seem to do much, on run 1 it goes to 2% at the point the requested boost peaks and on run 2 it goes to 76.9% at the point the requested boost peaks but is at 0 the rest of the time.

So, what the hells going on then?!

Could the MAP sensor be faulty? I find it hard to believe its producing that levels of boost, is the MAP sensor before or after the DV? I seem to be getting a constant hiss coming from the DV even at small amounts of throttle then a large whoosh when it properly dumps boost.

If anyone has any ideas or has a better suggestion for things to log then fire away I'll be doing some more logs tomorrow.

Cheers
 
Not to sure as i have a pd150......but can you change the spring in the dv? Has it got the uprated spring or standard? Could you try the standard dv to eliminate dv issues?
 
It has the standard (green I think) spring in it just now. I was going to try that but the car did this with the standard DV too, the reason I put the 008 in was to try and cure this.
 
You need to fix the temp sender issue. ECU uses it to sort fuelling and it can cause alsorts of running issues.

No idea on the overboosting issues, surprised its not thrown the car into limp. N75 been connected wrong? reading threads on Vortex its either N75 or actuator, make sure the vac line is sound. Its what ive read more than know.

Can you not convert the graphs into the usual VC logs?
 
The temp sensor is the internal one to do with the aircon though, wouldnt have thought it does anything other than tell the aircon unit what the interior temp is? Yeah surprised it isnt going into limp mode too.

Do you mean the vac line to the actuator? Where does it come and go from?

No idea what you mean about usual vagcom logs lol, i just opened the log file in excel and graphed the bits I wanted.