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fitting a PD150 Turbo - Priming Oil into The Turbo ?

Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
Should there be any movement from here


Is this an excessive amount of movement or should there be no movement ? (Click the pic its a video)
 
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Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
My recon one had minimal movement, which I put down to heat expansion? But no it shouldn't have that much lol
well thats a bugger cause thats the recon unit i just bought, report on it from a company that inspected it says there's no fault with it ?
 

joshy514

Fleet Air Arm by ability.
Mar 2, 2012
1,836
4
Gloucester
www.seatcupra.net
It could be that I'm wrong, but recently I read that turbo's spin at 100,000+rpm and I can't imagine that will be very good at that speed. No doubt it's balanced correctly, so shouldn't actually move that much once it's spinning but that is significantly more than my recon unit had.
 
Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
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T108

Active Member
Jul 2, 2008
312
0
a small amount of raidial play (up and down) is fine and normal as these turbos use a journal bearing so the shaft floats inside the bearing on a pillow of oil, when the turbo is drained then this will appear slack
axial play (in and out) is not acceptable and is a sign of a worn or failed trust bearing.
 
Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
a small amount of raidial play (up and down) is fine and normal as these turbos use a journal bearing so the shaft floats inside the bearing on a pillow of oil, when the turbo is drained then this will appear slack
axial play (in and out) is not acceptable and is a sign of a worn or failed trust bearing.
thats ok then, its not moving in and out, just slight movement left, right, up and down
 
Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
I have done mine twice (pd150) and have just done my brothers 2 days ago (pd130), every time i have gone in from the top,

first off remove the top IC pipe
then remove EGR valve, good time to remove the pipe and fit blanking plates if you haven't already?
then get underneath and remove the 3 bolts from the down pipe and then oil return pipe and finally the TIP (a couple of 10mm bolts, 1 under egr valve and other on top of intake maifold) long nose mole grip work a treat for the clip on the turbo end.
back from above now,
remove the intake manfold and the oil feed pipe, careful not to twist it as it becomes quite brittle over time and then finally remove the 8 12mm nuts from the exhaust manifold.

if i remember i think i had to take off the rocker cover on the pdp150 to get the turbo out from behind, i think was due to the egr cooler.

hope this helps a bit, i can now remove a turbo in around 1 hour now...
ok, got as far as, jacking the car up, removed front o/s wheel, removed the undertray, removed all the intercooler pipes that side, removed the TIP, removed the turbo manifold heatshield, removed the PD150 plastic cover, removed the EGR delete kit, removed the 3 bolts from the exhaust down pipe

removed the intake manifold ? does this have to be done to get the turbo manifold off, was hoping i could leave that on
 
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Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
If you go underneath it doesn't but it you might as well so you can clean it nicely....
removed the 17mm bolt from bracket that holds the turbo on, on the underside near the oil return pipe. just about to remove the oil return pipe, how much oil is gonna come out ?

cheers for all your help by the way :)
 
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Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
when priming the new turbo, do i fill it from the oil return or oil feed hole. Ive got a syringe, how many ml of oil do i inject into it, and iam guessing i can use just the standard engine oil i use when doing an oil change. sorry for the stupid questions just wanna make sure i do it right.
 
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Sep 18, 2009
2,443
1
Shropshire
old turbo unit is out, and new one ready to go in. the oil intake pipe broke in the process but not really bothered as ive got a braided one ready to go on.

how much oil do i prime into the turbo, and do you do it from the oil return or feed hole ?
 
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anni25pd

Active Member
Jul 23, 2012
119
6
glasgow/ayrshire
Right mate get ur turbo/manifold mounted back on car, prime from top (feed location) I use 5ml syringe as not much required just fill till almost overflowing. Attach ur new braided flexi (I hope) line at turbo end & bolt down not forgetting small o-ring gasket & route downside of the head, round coolant pipes etc down towards base of oil filter housing. This is where your oil supply from engine (you'll know this if already removed orig fixed metal line). It's very, very fiddly bolt with washers each side new feed (this is very important to prevent leaks!!!) Does take a bit of time as said & awkward with various pipes in your way but persevere & you'll get there! This is lifeline of your turbo so ensure it's right.

Once happy start reconnect all other pipe work, downpipe etc basically everything you've removed to do removal. Couple of connectors are fiddly with limited access.. Leave oil return from turbo to sump disconnected at this point.

I'd love to know how your going to crank engine with ecu (or cam
Position sensor) disconnected as suggested above in previous post  don't do this!!!
Standing in front of engine look at right hand side of cylinder head near top above coolant pipes etc locate the electrical connection for the control circuit for the p'd injectors. It's a funny twist type connector with a small locating tab that u remove then twist/unscrew to disconnect.

Re double check everything else is reconnected, buttoned back up correctly !! And double check again!! Hopefully you dropped oil after knackered turbo was out, replace paper element oil filter & refilled with correct grade pd oil.

Remember your new oil feed line is empty at this point ( you can back fill it if u wish if u install in reverse of above) Once happy crank engine over on key, if u can get someone else to do it for you, leaves u free to watch oil return pipe from turbo for oil flow.

Don't worry it does take alot of cranking before u will see oil from it. Obv engine won't fire due to injectors disconnected so it won't flow heavily as pump isnt fully engaging. I've seen it take a min or two of cranking before u see a flow, once u do reconnect return at sump ( with gasket again) then reconnect injector wiring harness in reverse of above detailed procedure.

Again once happy fire engine properly & just let it idle whilst you re-check all connections for leaks , a torch is handy here! I tend to let it idle for as long as possible without revving at all. Finish refitting all other parts removed driveshaft , engine covers etc etc by the time ur done engine should at temp & ready for test drive
 
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