Hi guys,
After looking into a Forge Split R since i purchased the car... i spent hours and i really mean hours looking into the so called "limp mode lottery"
I have also spoken to many different tuning companies about them with varied answers from each.
So, when one came up for sale on here... i snapped it up!
Fitted it yesterday, and drove home 20miles with various levels of boost being used:
None of these caused me any problems. No turbo chattering, No leaking and No drop in pressure (from what i can feel as i am not running a Gauge.)
****I would like to take this time to say the following: I cannot and will not accept any damage if you do follow this guide... its just a rough from all the information i have researched.****
Right, so onto the valve. the valve comes in black or silver obviously... and on taking it apart it only has a spring and a piston... no o-rings just a tiny bit of grease.
The piston moves up and down and lets the pressure back into the engine via the bigger opening, and lets out some via the smaller opening.
The way the valve works is effectively its leaking pressure but all of a sudden giving you a PSSH. its not like a scooby, but certainly sounds nice
Fitting:
Fitting is easy just undo the old jubilees, and cut the cable tie (if not undo the small jubilee) that holds on the hose on the top of the DV
Fit the new one in place, with the trumpet face the front of the car. i have seen that some people mount it so that the trumpet faces the firewall, which i havent tried yet.
tighten up the jubilees and put on a new cable tie if needed.
Tuning:
Now, this is a bit of a trial and error sort of affair. i have found the following around on the internet, but as i said... very trail and error sort thing. what i found as a generic rule of thumb is the following.
The top of the valve has a ratchet system, which sets the amount of boost it "leaks". too much, and you get limp mode, too little and you get turbo chatter.
Turn the valve anti-clockwise all the way until it resists... you will know its at the end.
Then you will need to turn the top clockwise a certain amount of "clicks" to set the air flow.
after searching Audi, skoda, Seat, VW forums and speaking to a whole host of tuning companies... i have made the following list as a rough guide.
Normal engine - no remap: 15-18 clicks
Stage 1 remap - 24-28 clicks
Stage 2 remap - 26-30 clicks
I did mine last night and started at 26 to be safe... and ended up setting to 28 for a bit more PSSH.
I have still got my bonnet liner and you can still hear it as you drive along... but its not mentally loud or chavtastic.
Obviously, if you get limp mode... you need to adjust it, which im afraid is just trail and error... turn the engine off turn one way (i would guess anti-clockwise if you followed the above) and then start the car and test.
I will be monitoring mine over the next few weeks, but as yet... i havent had any problems, and the car is as torquey as ever and boosting as hard.
i hope this guide (if you would call it that) helps some people out and encourages people to get one... but if you decide you dont like the PSSH of it, you can blank it off and run full recirc anyway!
Thanks:
Andy_Lang
Ging3r
Forge Motorsport
AMD Essex
After looking into a Forge Split R since i purchased the car... i spent hours and i really mean hours looking into the so called "limp mode lottery"
I have also spoken to many different tuning companies about them with varied answers from each.
So, when one came up for sale on here... i snapped it up!
Fitted it yesterday, and drove home 20miles with various levels of boost being used:
- Gentle town running
- Pulling away boost
- Hard over taking boost
- Prolonged levels of over taking boost (dropped to 30 on the road and then hard accelerated to 70)
None of these caused me any problems. No turbo chattering, No leaking and No drop in pressure (from what i can feel as i am not running a Gauge.)
****I would like to take this time to say the following: I cannot and will not accept any damage if you do follow this guide... its just a rough from all the information i have researched.****
Right, so onto the valve. the valve comes in black or silver obviously... and on taking it apart it only has a spring and a piston... no o-rings just a tiny bit of grease.
The piston moves up and down and lets the pressure back into the engine via the bigger opening, and lets out some via the smaller opening.
The way the valve works is effectively its leaking pressure but all of a sudden giving you a PSSH. its not like a scooby, but certainly sounds nice
Fitting:
Fitting is easy just undo the old jubilees, and cut the cable tie (if not undo the small jubilee) that holds on the hose on the top of the DV
Fit the new one in place, with the trumpet face the front of the car. i have seen that some people mount it so that the trumpet faces the firewall, which i havent tried yet.
tighten up the jubilees and put on a new cable tie if needed.
Tuning:
Now, this is a bit of a trial and error sort of affair. i have found the following around on the internet, but as i said... very trail and error sort thing. what i found as a generic rule of thumb is the following.
The top of the valve has a ratchet system, which sets the amount of boost it "leaks". too much, and you get limp mode, too little and you get turbo chatter.
Turn the valve anti-clockwise all the way until it resists... you will know its at the end.
Then you will need to turn the top clockwise a certain amount of "clicks" to set the air flow.
after searching Audi, skoda, Seat, VW forums and speaking to a whole host of tuning companies... i have made the following list as a rough guide.
Normal engine - no remap: 15-18 clicks
Stage 1 remap - 24-28 clicks
Stage 2 remap - 26-30 clicks
I did mine last night and started at 26 to be safe... and ended up setting to 28 for a bit more PSSH.
I have still got my bonnet liner and you can still hear it as you drive along... but its not mentally loud or chavtastic.
Obviously, if you get limp mode... you need to adjust it, which im afraid is just trail and error... turn the engine off turn one way (i would guess anti-clockwise if you followed the above) and then start the car and test.
I will be monitoring mine over the next few weeks, but as yet... i havent had any problems, and the car is as torquey as ever and boosting as hard.
i hope this guide (if you would call it that) helps some people out and encourages people to get one... but if you decide you dont like the PSSH of it, you can blank it off and run full recirc anyway!
Thanks:
Andy_Lang
Ging3r
Forge Motorsport
AMD Essex
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