Fuel cap release not working

[bwtalbot]

A few weeks ago I serviced my Leon and replaced the rear brake pads, which meant disconnecting the handbrake cable, which meant removing the centre console (according to haynes golf manual).

I didn't disconnect the fuel door release switch and it broke in 2 when I removed the centre console. I realised my error when I tried to fill up a few weeks later. Managed to get it open by poking the (now dangling) switch internals.

Assuming it was working, I removed the centre console again and put it all back together again, but it now no longer works.

Have checked fuses and can't see any blown, also central locking still works so fuse should be fine (according to haynes).

Have checked the wires and there's no obvious signs of damage.

I read some other forum threads about fuel cap release problems caused by old solenoids, and the solenoid isn't making any noise or even attempting to open.

I've got less than a quarter tank and places to go so any help is much appreciated.

 

[bwtalbot]

Further testing...

Got a mate and his multimeter to poke around test various things, and it seems there is no power going TO the part of the switch that powers the solenoid. We proved this by using a paperclip to connect the power to the LED and to the power to the solenoid (2 striped wires, blue/red and blue/grey).

Have checked the grey wire and can't see any breaks or anywhere that it could have been caught or pinched, so it's gotta be a fuse. Anyone know which one? As I mentioned previously, the central locking is working. Will check them all one by one, but often they look fine even though they're blown.

If I can't find the fuse, my options are (1) to pull out the interior and pull up the carpet to trace the wire, (2) use a paperclip to activate the solenoid, or (3) swap the 2 power cables around so the LED doesn't work which would be a bodge.

 

[Muttley]

Fuse D, at the top left-hand edge of the relay plate, under the dashboard. Should be 10A

 

[bwtalbot]

Fuse D, at the top left-hand edge of the relay plate, under the dashboard. Should be 10A

I checked those yesterday, maybe I missed that one. Will check again. If you're right, then you will be my hero Muttley

 

[bwtalbot]

Confirmed! You are my hero Muttley!

The fuses were above the relays, and a little difficult to spot at first glance.

In my 04 Leon 1.6 16v it was Fuse A, Top left

 

[Muttley]

Glad it's sorted. The fuses at the bottom of the plate are A, B and C. The top row is D,E,F and G.

 

[bwtalbot]

I don't suppose you happen to know of a reason why the lights don't work on the ac controls? It's only a problem at night, but would be nice to fix.

No worries if you don't know, I'll start another thread.

 

[Muttley]

Manual or Climatronic? If manual, there is only one bulb, behind the knob for the fan speed control. Pull the knob off, using padded pliers. If Climatronic, the lighting is all part of the control unit itself, surface mount LED's on the circuit board.

 

[bwtalbot]

You legend! Found the bulb and it's blown, just have to get hold of a replacement now.

You seem to know how to solve lots of common problems with Leons. I don't think there's anything else I don't know how to fix other than the remote central locking which never worked, though I have since lost the remote key anyway.

Before I lost it, I tried replacing batteries and reprogramming as per instructions in the manual, plus various procedures I read on these forums. The red LED would light up on the key when the button was pressed. Not overly fussed, but if I could replace the key and get it working for £50 or less I may consider it.

It's the standard old one with buttons on the key, not a flipkey or separate fob. Do you know the cheapest way to get a new key with remote, and then program it?

 

[Muttley]

Key blade holds the immobiliser chip, which has to be matched to the ECU / immobiliser control unit before it can start the car. This can only be done with a fresh unit, or so I have read in many places. It can be done with VCDS.

So you have to get a key blade physically cut to match your existing key and then match the immobiliser chip in it to the car.

The Remote Locking fob is completely separate. This can also be matched to the remote lock/alarm module using VCDS. If you failed to get it to work before it is possible that the memory in the unit was full, it only has space for four keys, which it may have gone through in its life before you owned it.

It's a pity you lost the previous key, as replacements are not especially cheap - look on eBay.

So far all I have done is remember how things were on my Mk.2 Toledos, and how to read an Elsawin circuit diagram

 

[Bigjohn84]

Muttley I've got a standard key with central locking, can I change all that to a flip key or do I need to get another key done?

 

[Muttley]

You can add a flip key, there has been a FAQ thread about this for ages

 

[Bigjohn84]

Thanks mate

 

[bruceR]

A few weeks ago I serviced my Leon and replaced the rear brake pads, which meant disconnecting the handbrake cable, which meant removing the centre console (according to haynes golf manual).

I didn't disconnect the fuel door release switch and it broke in 2 when I removed the centre console. I realised my error when I tried to fill up a few weeks later. Managed to get it open by poking the (now dangling) switch internals.

Getting back to original post, why did you have to disconnect your handbrake cable inside the car??????
You don't have to touch the handbrake cable at all just remove the caliper and tie it up using string or tie wrap while changing disc / pads

 

[bwtalbot]

Disconnected the handbrake cable because the Haynes manual told me to. Annoyingly, the HM didn't tell me to disconnect the fuel cover switch.

If I still have the car when the rear pads need doing I'll bare it in mind, but more than likely the car will be completely dead or I may actually have bought something else (equally as likely).