Mar 10, 2025
4
0
Hi All,

Really in a bit of a sticky situation and looking for any help as I'm a bit stressed out. Firstly, I would like to say I'm not very well educated when it comes to cars and have just basic knowledge.

My car is a 2019 Leat Leon Cupra 290.

I have been going to this garage for about 4 years and have had 0 issues, and they have always been spot on with me.

I had a Stage 1 ECU and gearbox remap done about 1 year ago. Had no issues with it and had it done from a well-known tuner in Yorkshire.

About 2 months ago, I took my car to a garage for service and to have them look at a coolant leak. Got it back and told me that it was the head gasket and that I should either trade the car into someone or get it fixed asap. I ran a block test myself and confirmed it was.

I took it back in and let them do the work. 2 Weeks had passed, and I started to get a bit suspicious that I had not had an update. Gave them a ring and said that they were waiting on 2 parts. I waited another week, and then they told me they were waiting for a special tool from SEAT to re-align the chain correctly. Waited another week, the engine is back together, but the battery has run flat, and they can't get wifi where the car is so they need to charge the car up overnight. Another week and there is no power to the throttle, and it won't go over 1000 rpm. They changed the throttle body. Another week and still the same, so they get a new pedal sensor. Another week and nothing, so I go in to speak to them, they say they don't have the correct tools to diagnose the issue and are sending it to a specialist. Goes to a specialist and comes back for a fuel pressure pump to be replaced, which is replaced and still doesn't fix the issue. Week later and goes to a dealership instead.

Just spoke to the garage today, saying that the engine is damaged and it now needs a new engine. He claimed that because I had a tune and they weren't notified about it when putting the timing back, it has damaged the engine. He said with a tune that it should be done in a different sequence to fit the tune. To me, this doesn't make sense and seems really fishy, and I can't find anything online to back this up. I'm in the process of ringing some garages up to see if they will give me some advice on this.

So my question is:

1. Is it my fault that I haven't told them the ECU has a tune? Surely if they need to do something differently, they should ask?
2. The parts that have been changed are mechanical. I thought the ECU didn't control anything to do with the timing chain, so how can a tune affect this?
3. Can what he is claiming be true in any way? Personally, it sounds like they have messed something up and are trying to blame my tune.

Thanks for your time, and any information is greatly appreciated, as I have been quoted close to 4.5k for a new engine.
 
A stage 1 tune is based on a total stock car/engine, this has 0 effect on a headgasket change.

To me, it sounds they took on a job they could not handle and try to pin it on you, so they wont have to pay the repair out of their pockets...

[edit]
What test did you do? The one with the device in the coolant tank which checks for exhaust gases?
 
A stage 1 tune is based on a total stock car/engine, this has 0 effect on a headgasket change.

To me, it sounds they took on a job they could not handle and try to pin it on you, so they wont have to pay the repair out of their pockets...

[edit]
What test did you do? The one with the device in the coolant tank which checks for exhaust gases?

Exactly what I thought. I'm going to head down to the garage tomorrow and get it in writing from them. Should help if I need to take further action against them.
 
Crickey! what a situation!
A tune can't affect your physical timing chain or how it's fitted. Checking the timing chain renew procedure - it does look quite in-depth and needing a lot a special tools.
A (bad) tune could in theory affect/damage your headgasket (higher cylinder pressures/pinking/detonation etc..). It would however be very difficult to prove either way! That is one of the issues with a remap - if something breaks - tracing back the root cause can be very difficult, especially as many potential problems can take time to manifest.
The throttle pedal not working afterwards sounds fishy!
 
Crickey! what a situation!
A tune can't affect your physical timing chain or how it's fitted. Checking the timing chain renew procedure - it does look quite in-depth and needing a lot a special tools.
A (bad) tune could in theory affect/damage your headgasket (higher cylinder pressures/pinking/detonation etc..). It would however be very difficult to prove either way! That is one of the issues with a remap - if something breaks - tracing back the root cause can be very difficult, especially as many potential problems can take time to manifest.
The throttle pedal not working afterwards sounds fishy!


Tell me about it. They said they should have let them know about the tune so they could have done the sequence differently with the timing. I have no idea what they mean by this, and can't find anyone talking about this. If a tune could affect how they do something differently, then surely they must ask me first?

I believe they changed the throttle pedal because they were grasping at ideas for why there is no power when accelerating, same with the throttle body.
 
You can download the repair manuals here, then you have an idea what it's all about


Cheers,

I have had a look and can't find anything about following a procedure with a remap. All I can do is get it in writing, and investigate what they think it is and hope that their answer is something that makes them look completely like they have neglected the job.

Special Tools Required - The manual specifies several VAG special tools are needed. Not sure which one they didn't have when doing the job in the first place.
  • Assembly tool T10352/2 or T10352/4
  • Pin T40011
  • Assembly lever T40243
  • Release lever T40267
  • Camshaft clamp T40271
  • Counter-hold tool T10355
  • Assembly tool T10531
  • Assembly tool T10567

REMOVAL
  1. Remove noise insulation
  2. Remove right wheel housing liner
  3. Support engine in installation position
  4. Remove engine mounting
  5. Remove engine support
  6. Remove timing chain cover (top)
  7. Turn vibration damper to TDC position using counter-hold tool T10355 — the markings on the camshaft sprockets must align, and the notch on the vibration damper must align with the marking on the lower timing chain cover
  8. Remove lower timing chain cover
  9. Remove left and right timing valves using assembly tool — note: timing valves have left-hand threads
  10. Unscrew bolts and remove bearing saddle
  11. Use assembly lever T40243 to compress and lock the chain tensioner using locking pin T40267
  12. Bolt camshaft clamp T40271/2 to cylinder head and insert between chain sprocket teeth
  13. A second mechanic is required — turn exhaust camshaft with assembly tool T10567, unscrew bolt and guide tensioning rail downwards, turn camshaft until clamp T40271/1 can be inserted into sprocket teeth
  14. Unscrew bolts and remove guide rail
  15. Lock oil pump chain tensioner with pin T40011, remove chain tensioner
  16. Remove oil pump chain from crankshaft wheel
  17. Remove guide rail
  18. Remove camshaft timing chain from camshaft sprockets downwards
INSTALLATION

  • Crankshaft is at TDC with V-shaped recess on crankshaft wheel centred
  • Crankshaft wheel locked with clamping pin T10531/2
  • Camshaft clamps T40271/1 and T40271/2 fitted and marks coinciding
  • Marking on exhaust camshaft is slightly offset to the right
  • Use a waterproof pen to mark the notches for additional identification

  1. Fit timing chain onto camshaft journals with coloured markings properly aligned
  2. Fit chain on inlet camshaft, exhaust camshaft and crankshaft wheel — coloured chain links must align with sprocket markings
  3. Connect guide rails and tighten guide pins
  4. A second mechanic is required — reduce preload of exhaust camshaft, pull out camshaft clamp, turn exhaust camshaft until chain contacts guide rail, hold in position and install tensioning rail

At no point does the procedure mention anything about remaps, ECU tunes, or software modifications. The process is identical regardless of what tune is on the car.

The only time they should be interacting with the ECU is -

After working on the chain drive, adapt learnt values in engine
control unit. To do this, switch on ignition, and select the fol‐
lowing menu options on vehicle diagnostic tester :

♦ Test plan 001 - Engine electronics , Adjustment di-
agnosis chain length

To do with the length and nothing to do with sequence or actual timing.
 
Sounds like they've got the timing wrong, possibly damaged the engine and now they're trying to find a way to worm out of it.

I've replaced tens if not hundreds of timing belts and chains on vehicles with stage 1/2/3 ECU software, never made a shite of difference providing the instructions are followed correctly.

No revs and a lack of fuel pressure can be a direct result of the timing being set incorrectly.

Speak to the tuning company and ask their opinion, have it flashed back to stock if they demand it, but a physical timing fault will likely be the cause.
 
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