Gav's LCR 225 (Darth Vader)
- Thread starter dreago 1
- Start date
Received my 007p DV service kit the other. Next day delivery, very nice.
Took the old one off and tried the old pen trick, thought to myself, I'm sure it held the pressure better than that before.
Cleaned it all up and took it apart.
Did the pen trick again and found the difference unbelievable!
Has made a hell of a difference the other one must have been leaking a good'n, the dump valve is only just over a year old. Definitely worth looking into.
Didn't use all the grease, should I of?
G
Be cautious with the 007P's a friend of mine does a lot of tests with them and found that all the ones he has ever seen have leaked. Mine however, didn't! I haven't touched mine but maybe worth checking out to see if it leaks, now you've had it in pieces.
Coming along nicely though
Be cautious with the 007P's a friend of mine does a lot of tests with them and found that all the ones he has ever seen have leaked. Mine however, didn't! I haven't touched mine but maybe worth checking out to see if it leaks, now you've had it in pieces.
Coming along nicely though
I am hoping that with new seals and the new design piston it wont leak much.
Ideally it shouldn't leak at all! It's not the piston design that is at fault, it's the side port which isn't part of the one piece aluminium, they tap thread into the side and screw a port on, it only has about 3/4 - 1 turn of thread and tends to leak from there.
I am afriad I dont follow. Mine is one whole unit apart from the top, which screws on?
I thought I used plenty of grease first time round on my 008 but found it stuck shut a few times, got that chatter on lifting off the throttle. Took it off, cracked it open and just stuck the rest in, all good now. The grease doesn't seem to go anywhere so I would say use most of it to be on the safe side.
If it sticks shut then as I said you'll get "wastegate chatter" on lifting off. It's not really wastegate chatter, it just sounds like it, it's compressor stall which is bad news. If it sticks open then it won't build any boost as it's all going back through the valve, which is supposed to be shut. Either way you'll know soon enough if you haven't used enough grease.
If it sticks shut then as I said you'll get "wastegate chatter" on lifting off. It's not really wastegate chatter, it just sounds like it, it's compressor stall which is bad news. If it sticks open then it won't build any boost as it's all going back through the valve, which is supposed to be shut. Either way you'll know soon enough if you haven't used enough grease.
It's not removable, if the vacuum outlet is on the top, not the outlet on the bottom but the one on the side it where it leaks from. Between that and the main body.
Have decided to spruce the car up over the next few months.
Some new badges, front respray, brakes and the replacement parts that have been damaged over the years.
Plus the tyres have worn badly on the inside from not having the bushes done sooner. Have read that Vreds are good and have found them at a good price.
Recently ordered the catch for the rear seat that snapped off in my hand about two years ago. Easy replacement.
Also have put the new Cupra R badges on.
Off with the old.
On with the new.
Also noticed that my cheap led sidelights were failing, so have upgraded them.
And changed the numberplate ones also.
Some new badges, front respray, brakes and the replacement parts that have been damaged over the years.
Plus the tyres have worn badly on the inside from not having the bushes done sooner. Have read that Vreds are good and have found them at a good price.
Recently ordered the catch for the rear seat that snapped off in my hand about two years ago. Easy replacement.
Also have put the new Cupra R badges on.
Off with the old.
On with the new.
Also noticed that my cheap led sidelights were failing, so have upgraded them.
And changed the numberplate ones also.
Looking good Did you put any lacquer on the new R badges? I changed mine last year and within a few months they're looking tatty again. Got some new ones which I lacquered last weekend, might change them tomorrow.
Bit late now, but top tip for re-doing the badges - before you remove the old ones, get some detailing tape and put a strip right under the old badges, then mark the tape where the edges of the badges are. Makes it much easier to line the new badge up neatly.
Did you put any lacquer on the new R badges? I changed mine last year and within a few months they're looking tatty again. Got some new ones which I lacquered last weekend, might change them tomorrow.Bit late now, but top tip for re-doing the badges - before you remove the old ones, get some detailing tape and put a strip right under the old badges, then mark the tape where the edges of the badges are. Makes it much easier to line the new badge up neatly.
Looking good
Bit late now, but top tip for re-doing the badges - before you remove the old ones, get some detailing tape and put a strip right under the old badges, then mark the tape where the edges of the badges are. Makes it much easier to line the new badge up neatly.
Cheers,
That would of been a good idea. I may try and mask them up and lacquer them on the car.
So…… Just realised that my front tyres had no tread at all! Noticed the traction light flickering the other day when going round a corner downhill.
Read up and have purchased two Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta tyers for £205 hard earned beer tokens fitted inc VAT. Does this sound a good price? I hope so as they are on now!
Instantly I could feel the difference much smoother ride and seemed better off the mark, which is obvious having no tread before. Whilst having the fitted they said my pads were very low but discs were ok.
I was planning to go for new discs (EBC Grooved) and pads (Ferodo DS2500S) all round. However funds are short after the tyres and off to Glastonbury at the end of the month. If I were to change the pads could I fit the discs later, say a month or two down the line? Would this cause any problems?
Cheers.
G
Read up and have purchased two Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta tyers for £205 hard earned beer tokens fitted inc VAT. Does this sound a good price? I hope so as they are on now!
Instantly I could feel the difference much smoother ride and seemed better off the mark, which is obvious having no tread before. Whilst having the fitted they said my pads were very low but discs were ok.
I was planning to go for new discs (EBC Grooved) and pads (Ferodo DS2500S) all round. However funds are short after the tyres and off to Glastonbury at the end of the month. If I were to change the pads could I fit the discs later, say a month or two down the line? Would this cause any problems?
Cheers.
G
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That's a decent price for the Vreds, think I got 4 delivered for 420 last time, that was ex. fitting.
Re. brakes - if you're changing your discs then you should always change pads at the same time. The discs are designed to bed in with new pads. Re. discs, grooved ones look good but there's little performance benefit. As for pad choice, don't bother with DS2500s unless you use your car on a track. They need to get hot before they bite well, on normal driving or general fast road driving they'll hardly hit optimum temp. Below that they're no better than Pagids, save your cash.
I got plain EBC discs and DS2500 pads and unless I've been properly caning them I wouldn't say they were any better than the OEM stuff that was on before. If you track your car then fine, otherwise I'd say don't bother.
Re. brakes - if you're changing your discs then you should always change pads at the same time. The discs are designed to bed in with new pads. Re. discs, grooved ones look good but there's little performance benefit. As for pad choice, don't bother with DS2500s unless you use your car on a track. They need to get hot before they bite well, on normal driving or general fast road driving they'll hardly hit optimum temp. Below that they're no better than Pagids, save your cash.
I got plain EBC discs and DS2500 pads and unless I've been properly caning them I wouldn't say they were any better than the OEM stuff that was on before. If you track your car then fine, otherwise I'd say don't bother.
Hi
I just hope that they are not too soft and ware down too quickly.
Are you saying that if I am only changing the pads I don’t need to worry about the discs? But if changing the discs then to change pads as well?
I dont do track days and tend to stick to the highway limits.....ish
You can change pads without having to change discs but if you change discs you really should change the pads as well. I'd say you're unlikely to get any real benefit out of the DS2500s. I went for a hoon a couple of weekends ago, nice hot sunny day, I'd been driving hard for over 1hr before I noticed any improvement in the bite. I actually don't like it like that - means that at some point in your hoon you're going to go for the brakes and they bite harder than they have done up til that point - I'd say that has the potential to be dangerous.
They're also noisy when cold and generate horrendous amount of dust - you'll never be done cleaning your wheels.
Get over to Eurocarparts, get Pagid discs and pads for a lot less than EBC and Ferodo stuff. Just my £0.02 worth.
They're also noisy when cold and generate horrendous amount of dust - you'll never be done cleaning your wheels.
Get over to Eurocarparts, get Pagid discs and pads for a lot less than EBC and Ferodo stuff. Just my £0.02 worth.
I think you have summed it up well! I will give Eurocarparts a call. Are the Pagid pads what would have been on them already? Always had OEM from AMD. Do they have a reference number?
Cheers
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